Re: SOLVED Re: Can a mini spare throw off you alignment?

[Nate Nagel]

Lawrence Glickman wrote:

> On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 03:42:48 GMT, "Kathy and Erich Coiner"
> > wrote:
>
>
>>"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message > Were
>>you a female, this could be forgiven. They are dumber than
>>
>>>rocks. You should have known better.
>>
>>Glickman,
>>Does being a world class tool come natural, or do you work at it?
>>
>>Erich
>
>
> Which one of you wears the panties in your family. No, I don't want
> to know, but I'm guessing BOTH of you do.
>
> The OP was a ****wit. Wasted a whole lot of other people's time and
> energy, over nothing but his own incompetence. He shouldn't have a
> drivers's license, he should take the bus from now on.
>
> Lg
>
>

I think it's a reasonable assumption that parts on a fairly new car
shouldn't have enough rust to cause problems. At least I've never had
any. So I can't exactly blame any of the respondents for not suspecting
the correct solution, and if you didn't know to look, would YOU have
worried about rust on the hubs?

I mean, I'd like to think that I wouldn't have overlooked that problem,
but this kind of response doesn't help or teach anyone.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[Lawrence Glickman]

On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 06:54:18 -0500, Nate Nagel >
wrote:

>I think it's a reasonable assumption that parts on a fairly new car

This wasn't a fairly new car

>shouldn't have enough rust to cause problems.

It did, because it -wasn't- a fairly new car

> At least I've never had
>any. So I can't exactly blame any of the respondents for not suspecting
>the correct solution, and if you didn't know to look, would YOU have
>worried about rust on the hubs?

I've heard 2 versions of this story already.

First, OP changed the tire.

Second, Mr Goodwrench changed the tire.

Mr. Goodwrench jacked the car in the wrong place? Had great
difficulty taking the lug nuts off ( or, OP had great difficulty in
removing lug nuts, and was first to change this tire, depending on
which version of the story you want to believe ).

If in fact, Mr Goodwrench did it, there goes your theory that these
guys have the *equivalent of a college education.*

If in fact, OP changed the tire, there needs to be some inkling of
common sense in this person, that would tell him/her that rusted lugs
are a warning sign that *other* parts may be rusted as well.

We're talking SEVERE TOE OUT here, "visible to the OP"

SEVERE toe out. That means, the lug nuts didn't seat the wheel
properly on the hub, because of rusted lugs, and/or rust on the
wheel/hub contact points.

So, somebody is making this up as they go along, and it isn't me.
What *mechanic* do you know, that wouldn't have wire-brushed the lugs
and the hub/wheel before re-assembly? Any working in -your- shop?

SEVERE TOE OUT.

OK, the new tire is on, have a nice day. BTW, that will be $$$.

I don't think so.

Lg




>I mean, I'd like to think that I wouldn't have overlooked that problem,
>but this kind of response doesn't help or teach anyone.
>
>nate

[Mike Romain]

Thanks for posting the fix!

Most folks don't bother. We toss ideas at them and never hear again.

Those fools that fixed the flat should be shot for not doing a proper
job. A professional is supposed to know that left over chunks of rim
stuck to a hub need to be cleaned off.

If you have a sticking problem like that, I would recommend you get some
'antisieze' compound and coat the back of the rims good with that. The
oil you used will only be a temporary fix, the antisieze is permanent.

I do all my aluminum rims with it like they call for and even use it on
the steel ones because I am in the rust belt.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"B.B." wrote:
>
> [...]
>
> I didn't think this was much of a factor at the time. When I was
> removing my wheel to install the spare it was stuck quite tightly. I
> had to swear, kick, and pry a LOT to get it off. Turns out the
> corrosion on the back of it was thick enough that when the wheel was
> reinstalled at a different angle than it was removed at, the layers of
> corrosion stack up all on one side and caused the wheel to ride
> crookedly.
> I discovered this when I was looking for knots and noticed the wheel
> wobbling slightly as it turned.
> Anyway, removed the wheel--needed lots of cussing again, found the
> rust flakes, scrubbed it off, smeared a thin coat of oil on the
> surfaces, and reinstalled. Presto! Car rides straight again.
> Thanks for all the help anyway.
>
> --
> B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
> http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

[B.B.]

In article >,
Mike Romain > wrote:

>Thanks for posting the fix!
>
>Most folks don't bother. We toss ideas at them and never hear again.
>
>Those fools that fixed the flat should be shot for not doing a proper
>job. A professional is supposed to know that left over chunks of rim
>stuck to a hub need to be cleaned off.
>
>If you have a sticking problem like that, I would recommend you get some
>'antisieze' compound and coat the back of the rims good with that. The
>oil you used will only be a temporary fix, the antisieze is permanent.

Will do. I thought about getting some, but opted for oil since I had
it. I'll get some antisieze (need it for other jobs anyhow) later this
week.
I think I'll smear it all over LG's head too so it doesn't get stuck
in his ass next time.

>I do all my aluminum rims with it like they call for and even use it on
>the steel ones because I am in the rust belt.
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

[Mike Romain]

"TeGGer®" wrote:
>
> "B.B." > floridly penned
> in :
>
> > In article >,
> > Mike Romain > wrote:
> >
>
> >>
> >>If you have a sticking problem like that, I would recommend you get some
> >>'antisieze' compound and coat the back of the rims good with that. The
> >>oil you used will only be a temporary fix, the antisieze is permanent.
> >
> > Will do. I thought about getting some, but opted for oil since I had
> > it. I'll get some antisieze (need it for other jobs anyhow) later this
> > week.
>
> Anti-seize will do bugger all over the course of a winter if you live in an
> area with snow. I know; I've tried it.
>
> Most of the stuff gets flung off the rim and hub the first time the car is
> driven at highway speeds, and blasting with salt water will soon get rid of
> the rest.
>
> The best thing to do is to remove your wheels at least twice per year,
> clean the join up and then put them back. This will break the developing
> rust seal. And if you live in an area (like mine) where rust is your
> constant companion, you need to be removing your wheels to service your
> brakes at least twice per year anyway.
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>

Say what?

I don't know what you are using but it sure isn't the silver colored
antiseize I use!

Not only do I/we drive in salt slush daily 6 months of the year in both
of my Jeeps, we off road them and do water crossings up over the wheel
height on a regular basis.

Every time I have had to remove a rim, there has been tons of antiseize
left there.

The 'only' way that stuff is coming off between the compressed metal
parts is if I clean it off.

Reality says it is needed where the metal surfaces touch. Reality says
the damn wheel lug nuts better be on tight enough to have a metal to
metal contact with the rim and hub.

Crap man I had to remove an axle and hub that had been on for four
years. It just slid apart once the bolts were out rather than the
puller and 5 lb sledge hammer needed the last time. There was a nice
coating of antiseize still in there where it was needed. I didn't even
have to add more when putting it back together.

I will admit, any I slopped around outside the joint 4 years ago 'was'
washed away though...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

[larrybud2002@yahoo.com]

> I've heard 2 versions of this story already.
>
> First, OP changed the tire.
>
> Second, Mr Goodwrench changed the tire.
>
> Mr. Goodwrench jacked the car in the wrong place? Had great
> difficulty taking the lug nuts off ( or, OP had great difficulty in
> removing lug nuts, and was first to change this tire, depending on
> which version of the story you want to believe ).

There is only 1 version of the story, and that is the story the OP
told.

1. He got a flat
2. He put on the minispare
3. He drove it 15 miles
4. Took it to a shop
5. They put the fixed tire back on
6. NOW it felt like the far was out of alignment.

[Lawrence Glickman]

On 9 Dec 2004 10:18:40 -0800, wrote:

>> I've heard 2 versions of this story already.
>>
>> First, OP changed the tire.
>>
>> Second, Mr Goodwrench changed the tire.
>>
>> Mr. Goodwrench jacked the car in the wrong place? Had great
>> difficulty taking the lug nuts off ( or, OP had great difficulty in
>> removing lug nuts, and was first to change this tire, depending on
>> which version of the story you want to believe ).
>
>There is only 1 version of the story, and that is the story the OP
>told.
>
>1. He got a flat
>2. He put on the minispare
>3. He drove it 15 miles
>4. Took it to a shop
>5. They put the fixed tire back on
>6. NOW it felt like the far was out of alignment.

A lot of shops use Torque Sticks. The one's I know about use the 80
ft-lb torque sticks. They also use air wrenches. If one or more nuts
got cross-threaded the stick would have clicked-off at 80 ft lbs
before the nut had pushed the wheel rim against the hub. Anyhow,
regardless, it shows sloppy workmanship. The shop should have
_removed_ the rust, and run the nuts in by hand until they were on the
wheel rim, but I guess that's too much work for some people.

Lg

[B.B.]

In article >,
Lawrence Glickman > wrote:

>>There is only 1 version of the story, and that is the story the OP
>>told.
>>
>>1. He got a flat
>>2. He put on the minispare
>>3. He drove it 15 miles
>>4. Took it to a shop
>>5. They put the fixed tire back on
>>6. NOW it felt like the far was out of alignment.
>
>A lot of shops use Torque Sticks. The one's I know about use the 80
>ft-lb torque sticks. They also use air wrenches. If one or more nuts
>got cross-threaded the stick would have clicked-off at 80 ft lbs
>before the nut had pushed the wheel rim against the hub. Anyhow,
>regardless, it shows sloppy workmanship. The shop should have
>_removed_ the rust, and run the nuts in by hand until they were on the
>wheel rim, but I guess that's too much work for some people.
>
>Lg

The studs are undamaged. No cross-threading, no corrosion, no
stripping.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

[Lawrence Glickman]

On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 11:55:45 -0600, "B.B."
> wrote:

>In article >,
> Lawrence Glickman > wrote:
>
>>>There is only 1 version of the story, and that is the story the OP
>>>told.
>>>
>>>1. He got a flat
>>>2. He put on the minispare
>>>3. He drove it 15 miles
>>>4. Took it to a shop
>>>5. They put the fixed tire back on
>>>6. NOW it felt like the far was out of alignment.
>>
>>A lot of shops use Torque Sticks. The one's I know about use the 80
>>ft-lb torque sticks. They also use air wrenches. If one or more nuts
>>got cross-threaded the stick would have clicked-off at 80 ft lbs
>>before the nut had pushed the wheel rim against the hub. Anyhow,
>>regardless, it shows sloppy workmanship. The shop should have
>>_removed_ the rust, and run the nuts in by hand until they were on the
>>wheel rim, but I guess that's too much work for some people.
>>
>>Lg
>
> The studs are undamaged. No cross-threading, no corrosion, no
>stripping.

But rust on the wheel and hub. So much so, that the tire went
toe-out.

It isn't ever easy diagnosing a problem when not being able to see
what is going on for yourself, and often given the limited information
provided by the customer, without asking a LOT of questions.

Anyhow, the service shop did a lousy job. Mr Goodwrench was in a bit
of a hurry, I suppose, with all those customers lined up outside his
service bay, wallets in their hands.

Lg