88 jetta
 

Many thanks to all who have responded to my brake problem. I still have
the same thing going on after replacing the master twice, the calipers
twice, the rubber lines twice. he car has never hit potholes or such.
i've replaced the pro valve, just put on another brake check valve today
and still no luck. When I use a c-clamp to close the calper on the right
side I heard a hissing sound coming around the booster area, and the
caliper is very hard to close. The left side closes better when I
c-clamp it and no hissing. The right caliper seems to have alot of
pressure when I c-clamp it. This all started when I replaced the master
2 months ago. One day the brakes just faded to the floor so I figured it
ws the master cylinder that went bad. Now I've replaced everything new
and problems. All parts purchased are Bosh parts with lifetime
warranties. Is a leak down test very expensive and can I do this myself?
lost and confused this is keeping me up because I can't solve my problem
and its really driving me nuts.

88 jetta
 

Having fun yet? Don't stop now! <g>
Try to measure the clearance between the brake booster rod and the master
cylinder!
Find out why it is hard to compress the caliper piston back in the cylinder!
Loosen its line at the master and then compress to note any difference.

TEST:
Take it for the test drive until that RF caliper starts to lock up and then
loosen the brake master cylinder to booster nuts so the cylinder can move
away just a little. Hopefully this will free up the caliper.

I did not know that BOSCH made master cylinders! ATE does and Girling and
maybe some offbrand aftermarkets.
Are you buying these parts from a Auto Parts store like Murrays or Advance
Auto Parts which might mean that they are remanufactured?



"lynn lascu" > wrote in message
...
> Many thanks to all who have responded to my brake problem. I still have
> the same thing going on after replacing the master twice, the calipers
> twice, the rubber lines twice. he car has never hit potholes or such.
> i've replaced the pro valve, just put on another brake check valve today
> and still no luck. When I use a c-clamp to close the calper on the right
> side I heard a hissing sound coming around the booster area, and the
> caliper is very hard to close. The left side closes better when I
> c-clamp it and no hissing. The right caliper seems to have alot of
> pressure when I c-clamp it. This all started when I replaced the master
> 2 months ago. One day the brakes just faded to the floor so I figured it
> ws the master cylinder that went bad. Now I've replaced everything new
> and problems. All parts purchased are Bosh parts with lifetime
> warranties. Is a leak down test very expensive and can I do this myself?
> lost and confused this is keeping me up because I can't solve my problem
> and its really driving me nuts.
>

88 jetta
 

I am with Dave on the Bosch brake parts comment. They may make ABS (I
don't know) but I do see ATE, Girling and other vendors.

Does this hissing happen when the cap is off the master cylinder?

On my Toyota there was a specification for brake pushrod length. There
is a similar meashurement in my 1980-1984 VW manual. Did you check
this setting as per your repair manual?

How do you bleed your brakes? I have done the two person: down, hold,
open bleed screw, close bleed screw, up. Repeat. It works better than
one person. I recently used the Motion power brake bleeder
http://www.germanautoparts.com/tools to flush air and old fluid out.
It works great and requires only one person. You can also check for
fluid restrictions as I mentioned before.

If you somehow managed to leave a plug in something before you
tightened a line you may have some component plugged.

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 22:34:12 -0500, "dave AKA vwdoc1"
> wrote:

>Having fun yet? Don't stop now! <g>
>Try to measure the clearance between the brake booster rod and the master
>cylinder!
>Find out why it is hard to compress the caliper piston back in the cylinder!
>Loosen its line at the master and then compress to note any difference.
>
>TEST:
>Take it for the test drive until that RF caliper starts to lock up and then
>loosen the brake master cylinder to booster nuts so the cylinder can move
>away just a little. Hopefully this will free up the caliper.
>
>I did not know that BOSCH made master cylinders! ATE does and Girling and
>maybe some offbrand aftermarkets.
>Are you buying these parts from a Auto Parts store like Murrays or Advance
>Auto Parts which might mean that they are remanufactured?
>
>
>
>"lynn lascu" > wrote in message
...
>> Many thanks to all who have responded to my brake problem. I still have
>> the same thing going on after replacing the master twice, the calipers
>> twice, the rubber lines twice. he car has never hit potholes or such.
>> i've replaced the pro valve, just put on another brake check valve today
>> and still no luck. When I use a c-clamp to close the calper on the right
>> side I heard a hissing sound coming around the booster area, and the
>> caliper is very hard to close. The left side closes better when I
>> c-clamp it and no hissing. The right caliper seems to have alot of
>> pressure when I c-clamp it. This all started when I replaced the master
>> 2 months ago. One day the brakes just faded to the floor so I figured it
>> ws the master cylinder that went bad. Now I've replaced everything new
>> and problems. All parts purchased are Bosh parts with lifetime
>> warranties. Is a leak down test very expensive and can I do this myself?
>> lost and confused this is keeping me up because I can't solve my problem
>> and its really driving me nuts.
>>
>