Early series XJ front door hinge breakage tip
 

If you own an early (pre-Mopar, I think) XJ then you may have, if not
already, door hinges that have broken loose from the door frame.

The cause is from the bean counters, most likely, saying the weld on the
fourth side of the hinge ... the door opening side, was more expensive than
seam sealer ... even thought the jig locating it probably would not have
prevented welding ... wire and CO2 are just so expensive . . . .

The bad part is they could have left holes in the body skin metal for the
hinge mounts and welded to the heavier gauge "A" pillar substructure

My 89 has that problem, soon to be welded back on, on the driver's door.

Over a year ago, to slow down the breakage, I loosened the upper hinge from
the door proper to gain room, drilled thru the hinge into the door frame
with a bit sized for tapping 3/8" threads (5/16") then carefully drilled a
clearance hole in the hinge only (I went with 7/16" for a bit of adjustment
room).

Then I ran a 3/8" NC tap into the holes drilled and cut threads but you
could also run a dog point self-tap body bolt in as well.

This "temporary" repair has held up in daily driving and some light
off -roading until a month ago when the hinge finally broke off completely.

But the bolt kept the door from coming loose enough to do damage to the
other hinge or fall off completely, but I'll be welding up both hinges.

--
Budd

Early series XJ front door hinge breakage tip
 

Budd Cochran wrote:

> If you own an early (pre-Mopar, I think) XJ then you may have, if not
> already, door hinges that have broken loose from the door frame.
>
> The cause is from the bean counters, most likely, saying the weld on the
> fourth side of the hinge ... the door opening side, was more expensive
> than seam sealer ... even thought the jig locating it probably would not
> have prevented welding ... wire and CO2 are just so expensive . . . .
>
> The bad part is they could have left holes in the body skin metal for the
> hinge mounts and welded to the heavier gauge "A" pillar substructure
>
> My 89 has that problem, soon to be welded back on, on the driver's door.
>
> Over a year ago, to slow down the breakage, I loosened the upper hinge
> from the door proper to gain room, drilled thru the hinge into the door
> frame with a bit sized for tapping 3/8" threads (5/16") then carefully
> drilled a clearance hole in the hinge only (I went with 7/16" for a bit of
> adjustment room).
>
> Then I ran a 3/8" NC tap into the holes drilled and cut threads but you
> could also run a dog point self-tap body bolt in as well.
>
> This "temporary" repair has held up in daily driving and some light
> off -roading until a month ago when the hinge finally broke off
> completely.
>
> But the bolt kept the door from coming loose enough to do damage to the
> other hinge or fall off completely, but I'll be welding up both hinges.
>

I guess I got lucky. My pre-MOPAR (88) MJ rolled down the drive when the
parking brake cable snapped. Not too bad - it stopped about 6 feet up the
neighbors driveway but... I had the hood up and the door open. The drivers
side door caught the big tree at the end of my drive and got folded back far
enough to bend the hinge strap. That's one hefty piece of steel! I had to
heat it good and hot to bend it back and still didn't pop it loose from the
frame. I could just see me trying to weld that sucker back with a gas rig
and all that plastic/flamable crap so close but I lucked out. Used an 18"
Cresent wrench for leverage and it bent back as perfectly. The new door fit
like a charm.

--
Will Honea

Early series XJ front door hinge breakage tip
 

"whonea" > wrote in message
...
> Budd Cochran wrote:
>
>> If you own an early (pre-Mopar, I think) XJ then you may have, if not
>> already, door hinges that have broken loose from the door frame.
>>
>> The cause is from the bean counters, most likely, saying the weld on the
>> fourth side of the hinge ... the door opening side, was more expensive
>> than seam sealer ... even thought the jig locating it probably would not
>> have prevented welding ... wire and CO2 are just so expensive . . . .
>>
>> The bad part is they could have left holes in the body skin metal for the
>> hinge mounts and welded to the heavier gauge "A" pillar substructure
>>
>> My 89 has that problem, soon to be welded back on, on the driver's door.
>>
>> Over a year ago, to slow down the breakage, I loosened the upper hinge
>> from the door proper to gain room, drilled thru the hinge into the door
>> frame with a bit sized for tapping 3/8" threads (5/16") then carefully
>> drilled a clearance hole in the hinge only (I went with 7/16" for a bit
>> of
>> adjustment room).
>>
>> Then I ran a 3/8" NC tap into the holes drilled and cut threads but you
>> could also run a dog point self-tap body bolt in as well.
>>
>> This "temporary" repair has held up in daily driving and some light
>> off -roading until a month ago when the hinge finally broke off
>> completely.
>>
>> But the bolt kept the door from coming loose enough to do damage to the
>> other hinge or fall off completely, but I'll be welding up both hinges.
>>
>
> I guess I got lucky. My pre-MOPAR (88) MJ rolled down the drive when the
> parking brake cable snapped. Not too bad - it stopped about 6 feet up the
> neighbors driveway but... I had the hood up and the door open. The
> drivers
> side door caught the big tree at the end of my drive and got folded back
> far
> enough to bend the hinge strap. That's one hefty piece of steel! I had
> to
> heat it good and hot to bend it back and still didn't pop it loose from
> the
> frame. I could just see me trying to weld that sucker back with a gas rig
> and all that plastic/flamable crap so close but I lucked out. Used an 18"
> Cresent wrench for leverage and it bent back as perfectly. The new door
> fit
> like a charm.
>
> --
> Will Honea

Both the 88 and my 89 had the driver's door check strap broken, which may be
a factor, but the 88 didn't have a hinge problem.

Then it also it could be the welder at the plant didn't do a very good job
either . . .

My son and I are pulling the door Thursday and then welding everywhere we
can reach with my genuine $90 Harbor Freight fluxcore wire welder

To keep the sparks in check I'm duct taping sheet metal to the "A" pillar
and door opening to deflect them away from flammables ... but we'll have the
garden hose handy just in case.

Budd