80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.
I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that, but
I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled off the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle oil seal needs replacing. I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it says about removing the rear axle is :- 1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers. [OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with rust but they came off OK with WD40.] 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers from the axle shaft flange. {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift, but nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to belt the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.} 3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft flange and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub. [OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone washers out first as per step 2] There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to help. Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone washers out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies not seem to do the trick. Cheers, MugMechanic. |
80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.
In article >, MugMechanic
> wrote: > 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers > from the axle shaft flange. {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the > studs with a brass drift, but nothing happens. I can see the "cone > washers" but how hard do I have to belt the studs to get them out? I'm > afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of damaging them. I've > applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.} Hiya, I recently adjusted the front wheel bearing on my wifes 91 Hulux surf SSR-X. I've never come across the cone washers before but if you look closely they are split to allow a change of diameter. They were in really tight. You could try heat & wd40 but I just 'kept beating' on them behind the split and between the gasket of the flange. The gasket itself wasn't for moving either. Also thread the wheel nuts back on to protect the thread and tap the bolt helps to loosen the cones. HTH -- Terminal_Crazy Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6 Lancashire England http://www.sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk/terminal_crazy/ |
80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.
I would recommend you stop using a Water Displacement fluid and get some
real penetrating fluid. A product named PB BLaster is decent, Liquid Wrench is decent and I am sure there are a few more brands. Liquid wrench will do in an hour what a water displacer like WD40 will loosen in a week of daily soakings. (well, maybe a few days) There is a radical difference. Even brake fluid is a better penetrant than WD40, but it is real hard on paint. Mike (in the rust belt) 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com MugMechanic wrote: > I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that, but > I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled off > the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle oil > seal needs replacing. > I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it says > about removing the rear axle is :- > > 1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers. > [OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with rust > but they came off OK with WD40.] > > 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers from > the axle shaft flange. > {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift, but > nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to belt > the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of > damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.} > > 3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft flange > and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub. > > [OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone > washers out first as per step 2] > > There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to help. > > Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone washers > out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies not > seem to do the trick. > > Cheers, > > MugMechanic. > > |
80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.
On Fri, 11 Jan 2008 10:04:29 -0500, Mike Romain >
wrote: >I would recommend you stop using a Water Displacement fluid and get some >real penetrating fluid. A product named PB BLaster is decent, Liquid >Wrench is decent and I am sure there are a few more brands. > >Liquid wrench will do in an hour what a water displacer like WD40 will >loosen in a week of daily soakings. (well, maybe a few days) There is a >radical difference. Even brake fluid is a better penetrant than WD40, >but it is real hard on paint. > And for anyone too cheap to buy you can make your own. Take two parts diesel fuel to ATF... Works well, and will soak in generally. Aero-Kroil is another good product. |
80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.
Mike Romain wrote:
> the same body, idem numero Some brain dead asshole has a really warped sense of humor.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com |
80 series Landcruiser rear axle removal - need advice.
On Friday, 11 January 2008 19:08:08 UTC+13, MugMechanic wrote:
> I've been doing the brakes on my '94 Landcruiser, no problem with that, but > I've noticed a slight oil leak from the right rear axle when I pulled off > the brake disk to check the handbrake and adjust. So I suspect an axle oil > seal needs replacing. > I have one of those rather useless Gregory's repair manuals and all it says > about removing the rear axle is :- > > 1. Remove the axle shaft to rear hub nuts and spring washers. > [OK done, removed six 12mm nuts and spring washers, bit tight with rust > but they came off OK with WD40.] > > 2. Using a hammer and brass punch on the studs remove the cone washers from > the axle shaft flange. > {Here I'm stuck. I've tried tapping the studs with a brass drift, but > nothing happens. I can see the "cone washers" but how hard do I have to belt > the studs to get them out? I'm afraid to bash the studs too hard for fear of > damaging them. I've applied some WD40 and let it stand overnight.} > > 3. Install 2 x M8x25mm bolts to the threaded holes in the axle shaft flange > and tighten evenly until the flange is dislodged from the rear hub. > > [OK no problem, I can do that, but it seems you have to get the cone > washers out first as per step 2] > > There are no comprehensive illustrations in the Gregory's manual to help. > > Can anyone please advise on how to go about step 2 to get the cone washers > out, just tapping the studs even fairly hard with the brass drift dies not > seem to do the trick. > > Cheers, > > MugMechanic. Hey guys, does anyone know what the thread size is for the two bolts that remove the axles? M8 x what? 1? 1.5? -- The information contained in this e-mail message and any accompanying files is or may be confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, dissemination, reliance, forwarding, printing or copying of this e-mail or any attached files is unauthorised. This e-mail is subject to copyright. No part of it should be reproduced, adapted or communicated without the written consent of the copyright owner. If you have received this e-mail in error please advise the sender immediately by return e-mail or telephone and delete all copies. Fairfax Media does not guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained in this e-mail or attached files. Internet communications are not secure, therefore Fairfax Media does not accept legal responsibility for the contents of this message or attached files. |
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