1999.5 Golf rear brakes - do I need a caliper tool?
 

Hello group.

Apparently I need new rear rotors - corrosion is getting pretty bad, and
actually spreading down the rotor where the pad doesn't touch, and they are
slightly warped I believe... The pads were done at 60K Kms (car has 109K Kms
now) and have plenty of life on them, but I know they need to be changed if
I get new rotors.

Friend of mine who did my fronts said I don't need special tools to do the
rear rotors, I seem to recall needing a special retractor tool to push/turn
the pistons back into the calipers on the rear brakes on VW's.

I'd like to install Zimmerman rotors and PBR pads like I have up front (done
at around 90K Kms just before this summer), and do them myself - as I like
the way the front brakes improved when I changed from stock.

No. But its 10 times faster if you do.
Rgds
"Rob Guenther" > wrote in message
.. .
> Hello group.
>
> Apparently I need new rear rotors - corrosion is getting pretty bad, and
> actually spreading down the rotor where the pad doesn't touch, and they
> are slightly warped I believe... The pads were done at 60K Kms (car has
> 109K Kms now) and have plenty of life on them, but I know they need to be
> changed if I get new rotors.
>
> Friend of mine who did my fronts said I don't need special tools to do the
> rear rotors, I seem to recall needing a special retractor tool to
> push/turn the pistons back into the calipers on the rear brakes on VW's.
>
> I'd like to install Zimmerman rotors and PBR pads like I have up front
> (done at around 90K Kms just before this summer), and do them myself - as
> I like the way the front brakes improved when I changed from stock.
>


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Yes, you do need one. You may be able to borrow it from your local
Autozone/PepBoys. BTW, the rotors will always begin to rust where the pads
do not touch the surface. Do not judge a rotor by this method. What makes
you think their warped? Try coasting in a parking lot and applying the
parking brake. Do you feel anything or is it smooth?

--Andy

"Rob Guenther" > wrote in message
.. .
> Hello group.
>
> Apparently I need new rear rotors - corrosion is getting pretty bad, and
> actually spreading down the rotor where the pad doesn't touch, and they
> are slightly warped I believe... The pads were done at 60K Kms (car has
> 109K Kms now) and have plenty of life on them, but I know they need to be
> changed if I get new rotors.
>
> Friend of mine who did my fronts said I don't need special tools to do the
> rear rotors, I seem to recall needing a special retractor tool to
> push/turn the pistons back into the calipers on the rear brakes on VW's.
>
> I'd like to install Zimmerman rotors and PBR pads like I have up front
> (done at around 90K Kms just before this summer), and do them myself - as
> I like the way the front brakes improved when I changed from stock.
>

In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Rob Guenther wrote:

>
>Apparently I need new rear rotors - corrosion is getting pretty bad, and
>actually spreading down the rotor where the pad doesn't touch, and they are
>slightly warped I believe... The pads were done at 60K Kms (car has 109K Kms
>now) and have plenty of life on them, but I know they need to be changed if
>I get new rotors.

Unless things are different than on my 95, plan on replacing the
wheel bearings at the same time. The hub is integral to the disk. If
you don't have a press, you might ask the supplier to press the
bearings into the hubs.

Make sure that the replacement hub is the right size for the hole in
your wheels. It should not be a press fit. I know you think that
goes without saying.

And while you are at it, I would replace the parking brake cables if
you live in a cold area.

The ABS sensor rotor is a metal basket that you gently pry away and
reuse.

The parking brake is a drum under the rotor and it brakes smoothly... my
problem is with the rotor for rear braking... My mechanic told me they are
warped and that there is a corrosion problem and I should consider doing the
rotors soon.... My calipers might be seizing a little too as they were
rubbing when he spun the tire - I'm bringing the car in for a 2nd opinion
next week and he already has new parts on order for me.

I can feel the warp thru the brake pedal and quivering from the rear end of
the car under light pedal application - when I changed the front brakes I
lost the shuddering steering wheel problems when stopping from high speeds
and quiver from the front end, added pulsations in the brake pedal.
"Andrew" > wrote in message
...
> Yes, you do need one. You may be able to borrow it from your local
> Autozone/PepBoys. BTW, the rotors will always begin to rust where the
> pads do not touch the surface. Do not judge a rotor by this method. What
> makes you think their warped? Try coasting in a parking lot and applying
> the parking brake. Do you feel anything or is it smooth?
>
> --Andy
>
> "Rob Guenther" > wrote in message
> .. .
>> Hello group.
>>
>> Apparently I need new rear rotors - corrosion is getting pretty bad, and
>> actually spreading down the rotor where the pad doesn't touch, and they
>> are slightly warped I believe... The pads were done at 60K Kms (car has
>> 109K Kms now) and have plenty of life on them, but I know they need to be
>> changed if I get new rotors.
>>
>> Friend of mine who did my fronts said I don't need special tools to do
>> the rear rotors, I seem to recall needing a special retractor tool to
>> push/turn the pistons back into the calipers on the rear brakes on VW's.
>>
>> I'd like to install Zimmerman rotors and PBR pads like I have up front
>> (done at around 90K Kms just before this summer), and do them myself - as
>> I like the way the front brakes improved when I changed from stock.
>>
>
>