On Oct 5, 11:20 am, "Bill Spiliotopoulos" > wrote:
> The idle problem doesn't connect necessarily to the pulled thread of the
> carburetor stud.
>
> Anyway, first you have to fix the stud, as this is a more serious problem.
> You have to buy a helicoil insert to repair 8x1.5 mm metric thread (I'm not
> 100% sure if it is a 8x1.5, please someone verify this), a special tap and a
> special diameter drill to enlarge the hole. The tap, the drill and some
> helicoil inserts are usually sold as a set, at a reasonable price. Don't go
> for a complete set which has many different sizes, as it will be very
> expensive.
>
> You need first to remove the faulty stud from the carb. Use two nuts locked
> together, to unscrew the stud from the carb body. Then use the special drill
> to enlarge the hole and tap it with the special tap. Then screw the helicoil
> insert with the tongue-side in, using a small flathead screwdriver that fits
> by the tongue. Use thread locking fluid on the helicoil. Then screw the stud
> in the helicoil, and you are done.
>
> About the idle problem.
> Dying at idle means the idle circuit is not working.
> Either the electromagnetic cut-off valve is defective or not getting power
> (it must click when you toggle the ignition switch on and off).
> Or the idle jet or idle circuit passages are blocked. You need to dismantle
> the carb and use compressed air to clean the idle circuit.
>
> The only reason to ditch a carb is if the throttle shaft bushings are
> excessively worn and you can't find anybody to get it rebushed at a
> reasonable price, or if it is bent / cracked / corroded. Not idling is not a
> reason to replace a carb.
>
> Bill Spiliotopoulos,
> '67 Bug.
>

I'm thinking the idle problem could be the pulled stud.
If the carb doesn't bolt down good, couldn't you be sucking in some
air around the gasket and/or base of the carb ? Might also warp the
bottom of the carb ?

Randy