On 22 Jul 2018 22:29:00 GMT, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

> Oh my.
>
> You _must_ support the engine. Either via a block of wood under the oil
> pan, a trans lift under the pan, or a bar with chain across the shock towers
> or hood opening. If you dont, the engine will tilt. Bad things can happen
> like something goes through the radiator or the exhaust manifold breaks,
> wires get ripped off, etc.
> The cross member - remove it. It will make life a lot easier.
> You did not say what specific engine, vehicle, trans, etc, but without
> removing it it is doubtful that that there will be enough room to back off
> the trans and then tilt forward to drop it with out breaking off the tail shaft.
> So why are you removing the trans? To R&R the clutch?
> If so, then replace the throwout bearing while you are at it.
> You will need a clutch plate centering tool.
> Thread lock- I tend to use blue thread lock on small bolts and nuts
> that get torqued to inch pounds but not on large bolts that get
> torqued to 100+ foot pounds. A suggestion: replace any lock washers.

To answer your question, I am now supporting the engine but I don't think
it needed to be supported since nobody else does that that I could figure
out. With the jack on the engine and the transmission out, I can move the
engine about 1/2 inch or even less, so that might be helpful when lining it
up for the reassembly though.

The cross member and the sway bar were removed, and I'm glad it did that
because you need as much room as possible the first time you do it.

The Aisin clutch kit from Rockauto came with five pieces:
a. Clutch plate
b. Diaphragm
c. Pilot bearing
d. Throwout bearing
e. Alignment tool

I am replacing the clutch where it was worn to the rivets.

I'm kind of stuck now on whether to remove the flywheel and get a new one
or have it machined (and replace the oil seal behind it) or just keep it
where it is (the bolts are on really tightly and I can't tell if it needs
to be machined or not).
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4230325sticking05.jpg>