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  #18  
Old July 23rd 18, 11:44 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Hank Rogers[_2_]
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Posts: 9
Default Clutch bolts and locktite

Arlen Holder wrote:
> On 22 Jul 2018 23:09:49 GMT, rbowman wrote:
>
>> You took out the cross member under the transmission, right?

>
> Yup. And I'm glad I did as you need all the room you can get the first time
> you do this job, especially since the transmission jack is kind of big.
>
>> Do the
>> engine mounts entirely support the engine, or do the transmission mounts
>> play a part?

>
> The engine is fully supported with the transmission out. Even so, I now
> have a jack under it, just in case I want to move it upward to align things
> on the replacement.
>
>> In other words, is the rear of the engine trying to rotate
>> downward and binding the transmission?

>
> The problem was stupid. Really stupid. I am embarrassed. I removed the
> exhaust bracket bolts (two of them) but I didnt' realize that the bracket,
> even when not connected to the bell housing, was in the way of the bell
> housing moving backward. I'm an idiot. It was all my fault.
> I couldn't find a DIY that explained this as everyone has different exhaust
> depending on federal versus cali and the engine most people have is
> different.
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9617515sticking01.jpg>
>
>> I don't know your vehicle, but usually a jack under the crankcase does
>> the trick. You're not trying to jack the engine up, just replace the
>> support provided by the transmission you're trying to remove.

>
> I have a jack under the engine now, but it's not needed for the engine.
> It may be needed for adjusting angles for reassembly as the old diaphragm
> (before I took it off the engine) seems off kilter when looking head (for
> some reason).
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2755957sticking03.jpg>
>
> While I can see the shift fork and throwout bearing in the bell housing
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2978407sticking02.jpg>
>
> I haven't been able to see the pilot bearing or the rear oil seal.
>
> Where is the pilot bearing? Is it under the throwout bearing?
> Is the oil seal behind the flywheel?
>
> I'm not sure if I can get that flywheel off as those bolts are tight and my
> half-inch sockets are all only six point where you have to have 12 point:
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7699843sticking07.jpg>
>
> How important do you think the flywheel machining or replacement is?
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4230325sticking05.jpg>
>


The pilot bearing is just a bushing in the end of the crank or flywheel.
The tip (about 1" or less) of the transmission's input shaft rests in
this bushing to support it from flexing. Visible after you remove
transmission and clutch plate and pressure plate. You'll need to use a
suitable puller attached to a slide hammer to get it out. If the one
already there looks ok, you can skip that and lightly grease it before
you install the new clutch. If it is badly worn out, the front bearings
in your tranny may be gone too.

Rear oil seal is a little more trouble. Need to remove the oil pan and
maybe even the rear crank main bearing. Again, if its not leaking, leave
it for the next overhaul.

Always replace the pressure plate and disc and the throwout bearing.
Often, if the friction plate hasn't worn down to where the rivets have
badly eaten up the flywheel, you don't need a new or regrind on the
flywheel. If the scoring or grooves are small, the new clutch plate will
wear in and work fine, although it will have slightly less lifetime
since the grooving takes up a tiny bit of it's thickness during break in.

A clutch is exactly the same type mechanism as a brake disk and rotor,
or brake shoes and drums. Use your experience there to guide you.

Judging when something must be replaced or reground is largely a matter
of experience, so you'll just have to go from there and learn from any
mistakes. There are no magic solutions.

Good luck.






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