First - a word of caution... Some electrical concerns with the control-trac
system can be mistaken as a "loose chain" concern. The drive chain can be
checked for "slop" without removing or disassembling the transfer case....
Place the system in 4LOW to lock the transfer case.... With the car in park,
raise the front wheels clear of the ground (use jack stands, of course) and
rotate the driveshaft to the front diff back and forth.... This is a bit of
an "acquired taste" and there is no real spec other than sound judgement -
Usually (memory thing here) I see anywhere up to almost 1/8th turn of the
shaft in a good T-case.... I believe that you will see well over 1/4 turn
before things are loose enough for the chain to skip over the sprockets
under heavy torque....

Having said that, once you get the T-case on the bench, you will need a 30mm
socket and a pair of lock ring pliers ( similar to these
http://www.stridetool.com/tools/reta...pliers_06.html ) at the
very least. This will be about a 7 on a scale of one to ten......

Remove the front output flange nut first before splitting the case.... Also,
to remove the shift motor, the electrical connector will need to be
partially disassembled - this is not a difficult step but it is too easy to
break plastic parts.... There is a plastic retainer clip inside the
connector that is removed with needlenose pliers.... look closely inside the
connector and you will see a little plastic tang holding the wire connection
in place... using a seal pick or straightened out paper clip, gently pry
that tang away from the wire and pull the wire fom the connector. I think
you will be removing more that one wire so be sure to note the
colour/location of each wire.

Once you separate the case halves, the rest should be fairly apparent. Work
with purpose - taking digital photos as you progress can help. There are
three balls on a cam ring located between the clutch housing (the one the
electric clutch coil reacts with) and the clutch pack - do not let these
balls "escape". Once you get the clutch pack out, the drive sprocket, chain
and front output shaft lift out as a group. Now is a good time to inspect
the clutch pack friction members.... and replace is necessary - look for any
discolouration that might indicate overheat and look for abnormal wear
patterns.

Carefully inspect the drive and driven sprockets for wear.... The teeth on
the sprockets should be smooth. If these show distinct wear patterns, the
transfer case may be noisy or this wear may affect the service life of the
new chain....

Now you are this far into it, this would be the ideal time to clean or
replace the oil pump pick up screen, inspect and clean the magnet and
inspect (or, if a hi-miler, even consider replacing) the oil pump..... There
is a locating or "anti spin" lug on the oil pump that engages a boss on the
inside of the front case half.... I don't recall seeing concerns with the
4404/4405 cases but I have seen the lug on the oil pump wear right through
the boss inside the case on some transfer cases (usually F150, IIRC).

Considering the scope of the project and the chances for things to go not
quite as smoothly as planned, this may be an good opportunity to try a one
use subscription at
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...&menuIndex1=41
or similar.

Of course, you must remember that I'm both a dealer tech and I've been doing
this for many years. People only ever pay me to disassemble things once....
(and here comes the sarcastic dig) - however, there are those here that feel
doing something right and doing it only once are something to be avoided if
we can save a nickel and enjoy the project many times over. Perhaps one of
these kind folks could step up to the plate and let us both know the ideal
spot on your T-case and we can let everyone have a crack at wailing on it
with a hammer....