The idle problem doesn't connect necessarily to the pulled thread of the
carburetor stud.

Anyway, first you have to fix the stud, as this is a more serious problem.
You have to buy a helicoil insert to repair 8x1.5 mm metric thread (I'm not
100% sure if it is a 8x1.5, please someone verify this), a special tap and a
special diameter drill to enlarge the hole. The tap, the drill and some
helicoil inserts are usually sold as a set, at a reasonable price. Don't go
for a complete set which has many different sizes, as it will be very
expensive.

You need first to remove the faulty stud from the carb. Use two nuts locked
together, to unscrew the stud from the carb body. Then use the special drill
to enlarge the hole and tap it with the special tap. Then screw the helicoil
insert with the tongue-side in, using a small flathead screwdriver that fits
by the tongue. Use thread locking fluid on the helicoil. Then screw the stud
in the helicoil, and you are done.

About the idle problem.
Dying at idle means the idle circuit is not working.
Either the electromagnetic cut-off valve is defective or not getting power
(it must click when you toggle the ignition switch on and off).
Or the idle jet or idle circuit passages are blocked. You need to dismantle
the carb and use compressed air to clean the idle circuit.

The only reason to ditch a carb is if the throttle shaft bushings are
excessively worn and you can't find anybody to get it rebushed at a
reasonable price, or if it is bent / cracked / corroded. Not idling is not a
reason to replace a carb.

Bill Spiliotopoulos,
'67 Bug.


"Manuel Macedo" > wrote in message
...
> Just done my first engine out this weekend. I had a generator to replace,
> (along with fan attacched) and fan housing. My offcenter fan, broke my
> generator and cracked my fan hounsing.
> It was a little tricky since I did it all alone, andthe engine is still a
> little heavy
> No problem there, but I problem I use to have has agravated: the engine
> dies
> at idle.
> I suspect the carburator is to blame, since one of its mounting screws was
> loose, a little hamering didn't help much. Tried to weld the screw to the
> carburator, but i suspect it still aint fixed. When I'm tightening it with
> a
> wrench, there is no stopping point, looks like the screw comes down in
> every
> turn. It i pretty tight do, and the front screw is allright. I took the
> carburator and cleaned it. Befoe I mouned it, I used some guew that
> vulcanizes with heat in the carburator/manifold juntion to cover potencial
> leaks in that area. No success... No matter the tunning of the carbuator,
> if
> the choke is all opened, it dies. Of course I've tested with a warmed up
> engine.
>
> Spark plugs are new, spark cables are new, current is flowing well from
> the
> coil and to the spark cables.
>
>
> Probably the hammering of the screw didn't helped the carburator, even if
> it
> had that problem allready...
>
> Do I need a new carbuator? I got a 34 pic-3. How much should I pay for one
> of those?
>
>
> Any ideias?
>
> Thanks!
>
> MM
> '70 VW 1300 bug
>