On Jun 6, 10:49 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> REPLIES WITHIN
>
> > wrote in message
>
> ups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > thanks so much for the reply
>
> > the hose connecting the reservoir and the engine block was broken, a
> > small breech near the connector, but the engine did have a good shower
> > of coolant.. last time it stalled, it was when i tried to wash the
> > running engine at the car wash, took about half an hour to start and
> > run again, this time seems no hope 
>
> > i fixed the hose, intentionally dumped more coolant and was happy to
> > see no traces of oil, so i guess the head gasket is ok.. i filled the
> > coolant up and wiped off the excess, and waited a few days for the
> > engine to dry then came back and changed the plugs, dist. cap and
> > rotor..
>
> > yeah i did remote started the car, i used a 8 gauge copper wire to
> > jumper the starter's solenoid to battery ( + ) terminal, ignition key
> > in ON position, gear in NEUTRAL, same thing, cranks but won't run, at
> > least i can conclude that the ign switch is OK
>
> Sounds good
>
> > i then touched the fuel injectors while cranking the engine and they
> > are not responsive.. actually i have no idea how the injectors would
> > "wiggle" when they are working, at the intake manifold inlet i smelled
> > only a faint odor of gasoline
>
> They might click when working and should be working while cranking the
> engine over.
>
> > i cleaned all electrical connectors with CRC cleaner and so far
> > evrything seems fine but no sparks, no injectors pulses
>
> You cleaned ALL connections?
>
> > yeah haynes manual sucks.. i googled for information and narrowed the
> > problems down to the coolant temp sensor, the camshaft sensor, the
> > engine speed sensor and the ECU
>
> The camsensor (AKA ign distributor) would/should not cause this problem and
> the engine could run with the camsensor disconnected or bad.
>
> > my car has a distributor so i guess the engine speed sensor is only
> > for RPM and the ECU wouldn't cut off ignition when it's gone bad, a
> > bad camshaft sensor maybe the cause, but then i thought the coolant
> > sensor got the most damages during engine overheating and i cringed
> > when i thought that maybe the ECU is dead too..
>
> The crank sensor could cause a non-start problem!
> I wonder if the needle of the tachometer would jump while cranking the
> engine?
>
> > my question is would a faulty coolant sensor cause the ECU to abandon
> > ignition and injection? a safety measure perhaps?
> > oh and i dont see the check engine light coming on when the ign key is
> > ON and prior to cranking... and the OEM alarm wouldnt go off when i
> > reconnect the ( - ) terminal... my ECU is dead?
>
> Hmmm that check engine light NOT coming on is a clue!
> Start looking at the fuses and relays. But like on a '96 I had, it may
> just be a bulb! lol
> I don't think a faulty coolant sensor would cause a no-spark problem.
> I suppose you don't have a vag-com tool to plug into the ECM. 8^)
>
>
it's the ECU!!! i am sure
i dont have the vag-com..
it could have saved me a lot of time...
but yeah i did check the fuses and relays first thing.. i just can't
recall seeing the check engine light on recently, either when cranking
or running, but like you said i think it could be a bad bulb, mine had
been overworked.
i did clean all the connectors, spayed CRC cleaner on every each one
them... i only disconnected and clean the inside a few connectors that
i suspected getting showered by the coolant, and ones that go to
camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and coolant sensor
i found out that in case of a faulty coolant sensor, the ECU will use
the default 80 C or 176 F, so it's not the coolant sensor. also on
2.0L engine the camshaft sensor only works for advanced/retarded
timing and the engine can start with it disconnected, so neither the
camshaft sensor
i was able to download the bentley manual for BMW 3 series and check
the Jetta crankshaft sensor following the instructions, the resistance
across pin 1-2 is 570 ohms compared to 1280 ohms specs of that of the
BMW. checked with napaonline and they are different part numbers,
albeit looking exactly the same.. while i have no idea if 570 ohms is
still within specs, at least the sensor was not completely dead,
yes?
i reached under the rain gutter and tapped the ECU a few times with a
wooden stick, then cranked the engine and noticed a significantly
slower crank, some sort of resistance that caused by chamber
combustions, though weak and uneven.... also another good thing was
that the dash shift indicator worked correctly. tried cranking about
five times more but still no start.
so i pulled the ECU off the compartment, unpluged the harness and
examined the wires and prongs, made sure nothing was broken or loose,
put everything back, and the first thing i noticed was the dash shift
indicator turning wacko again.... i tapped the damn ECU again, and
this time it's like beating a dead horse..
i'd probably look for another ECU at a junk yard, dont know if i'll
have much luck finding used VW parts in houston TX... haha...
thanks again dave