"Billy Bad Assr©" > wrote in message
...
> > Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps
> > you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?
>
> no - http://www.magnaflux.com goto: sales and find a dealer near you --
you
> want one can of their dry magnaflux. - cost per each can is not cheap!

dye penetrant....common for nonferrous metals such as aluminum or
magnesium...you surely aren't confusing the name "magnaflux" with the
process that has become known as "magnafluxing" are you?(note: Magnaflux is
the brand name of the top producing magnetic particle inspection equipment
for the past five decades, hence the "xerox" syndrome)


>
> 1). Keep those injectors in a clean place
>
> 2). Make sure that you mark each piston rod -- each rod should depict the
> cylinder # as well the direction in the case -- create a mark on both the
end
> cap and the rod to ensure that the cap gets back to the correct rod! --
Don't
> mismatch rod caps

the factory rods have cast in marks for "direction"...no need to mark for
that...


>
> 3) Make sure that you remove all the main bearing as well as rod bearings
>
> 4) The alternator pulley shaft has a "half moon" key -- don't loose it! --
use a
> large screw driver - angle it -- tip is on pulley @ a slight angle. Use a
large
> mallet, hit the end of screw driver handle HARD several times -- should
come
> right off - a puller will take an hour to remove pulley -- screw driver
method
> takes minutes

4b) buy new pulley to replace bent one from using procedure "4"


>
> 5) Have the crankshaft mains checked for size and roughened -- use 320
grit
> emery clothe - procedure is known as "crankshaft blue-printing"

"checked for size and roughened" does not equate "crankshaft
blue-printing"...you are "apparently misinformed"....

>
> 6) use 10mm off-set wrench to remove oil cooler (2 nuts) don't use water
to
> clean out - use gasoline only

good luck stretching that 10mm wrench around the nuts on a 75's oil
cooler...make a video, i wanna see it....are you perhaps "misinformed"?

>
> 7) There are 4 possibly 5 main bearing pins -- use vise grips to remove --
don't
> loose them!!!

hell you think you know the rest of it, pick a number and stick to it, even
if its wrong(stating wrong info hasn't been a problem for you so far)

> 8) make sure that you remove oil pressure check valves and their springs
>
> 9) your heads valve guides/seats were made for leaded gasoline -- have
them R/R
> to Unleaded type

"apparently misinformed"....."You don't know what it is that your talking
about" the heads on every vw aircooled head after approximately 1965 had
hardened valve seats for use with unleaded gasoline....
>
> 10) if you have the head rebuilt (I recomend that yuou do) -- have the
exhaust
> valves replaced with new ones
>
> can't think of anything else

maybe go to a shop and ask em to "magnaflux" the heads...then run off when
they start laughing?

sure hope Remco does his homework instead of just believing everything you
tell him....

>
> --
> BBA
> °?°
> BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com
> When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org
>
>