Is this Jeep worth it?

BIll,

I will check out the truck this weekend sometime as most of you here seem to
overwhelmingly think it's a good value. When I do I will find out more
details on the A/C and such and post back here.

Earle,

I will definately follow up as per your advice if I acquire the vehicle.

Thanks

Earle Horton wrote:
>Billy Ray,
>
>There is a "known issue" with automotive air conditioning systems, that they
>just stop working after a while. As you point out, this is probably in most
>cases due to a leak, and as Bill Hughes has stated, O-rings are a weak link.
>In my experience, when faced with an AC system that "does not work", an
>aggressive approach is the best approach. Replace all the O-rings. Inspect
>all the joints and connections for tell-tale signs of oil leakage. If there
>is a connection that is inaccessible or hidden, expose it. Install a leak
>detector if you have to. If you are having all this done by someone else,
>impress on them that you believe the system to be old, you anticipate a lot
>of problems, and you want all the leaks fixed this time. You may have a
>couple more hours and some additional replacement parts cost, but the leak
>will be gone when you are done.
>
>Do not listen to arguments like, "Sometimes there is a leak, that varies
>with the ambient temperature. That could be why we can't find it in your
>vehicle." That just means, "The leak is behind an access panel, that we
>don't feel like removing right now."
>
>Earle
>
>> What about yours (yours to be), any information about it?
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>> >>
>> >>What was the problem with his system?


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1

90% of them were out of focus or personal 'candid' close up shots so I
just grabbed the Jeep shots.

Mike

Billy Ray wrote:
>
> What happened to the 200+ pix that Steve took on the trip?
>
> --
> (remove SPAM)
> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
>
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug/05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom right of that page)
> >

you can't find the dipsticks for tranny and crankcase without instructions?
Huh?
"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:5689dc2a64bcd@uwe...
> I'm no automotive expert, but many of you here seem to be, so I'm trying
to
> obtain as many opinions as possible on this.
>
> Is a:
> 94 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 200K miles (Overwhelmingly highway-- Bklyn to LI and back daily)
> No leaks or bad emissions
> Body/Interior very good condition
> Original owner
> Always regularly maintained (oil/tranny fluids, etc.)
> Never a major repair (engine, tranny)
> Still performing fine in said capacity above
> A/C no longer functional
>
> Worth $1000?
>
> How long, for how many miles can these things last if they're properly
> maintained?
>
> Is it likely the engine or tranny will fall out simply from age/mileage?
>
> How many more miles can I expect out of it without a major failure? I only
> drive about 10K/yr (75% city, 25% highway).
>
> I personally know the seller so there's no reason to be skeptical of bad
> motives in this case.
>
> Where would the oil/tranny dipsticks be located if I'm facing the engine?
>
> Are there any other tips on what to check/look for?
>
> I'm deciding on whether to go check it out.
>
> TIA

This really hurts, but I have to agree with John here.

If you can't find the dip stick, you should just lower the hood and take it
to a friend or relative that knows this sort of stuff.

Surely, if you need us to tell you where the dip sticks are, we won't be
able to give you enough details to help with the other stuff you need to
look for.





"attnews" <john .n. > wrote in message
...
> you can't find the dipsticks for tranny and crankcase without
> instructions?
> Huh?
> "jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
> news:5689dc2a64bcd@uwe...
>> I'm no automotive expert, but many of you here seem to be, so I'm trying
> to
>> obtain as many opinions as possible on this.
>>
>> Is a:
>> 94 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
>> 200K miles (Overwhelmingly highway-- Bklyn to LI and back daily)
>> No leaks or bad emissions
>> Body/Interior very good condition
>> Original owner
>> Always regularly maintained (oil/tranny fluids, etc.)
>> Never a major repair (engine, tranny)
>> Still performing fine in said capacity above
>> A/C no longer functional
>>
>> Worth $1000?
>>
>> How long, for how many miles can these things last if they're properly
>> maintained?
>>
>> Is it likely the engine or tranny will fall out simply from age/mileage?
>>
>> How many more miles can I expect out of it without a major failure? I
>> only
>> drive about 10K/yr (75% city, 25% highway).
>>
>> I personally know the seller so there's no reason to be skeptical of bad
>> motives in this case.
>>
>> Where would the oil/tranny dipsticks be located if I'm facing the engine?
>>
>> Are there any other tips on what to check/look for?
>>
>> I'm deciding on whether to go check it out.
>>
>> TIA
>
>

I found the tranny stick, I just wanted an idea to save time-- in case it was
hard to get at/find, like on my 89 honda. (the tranny dipstick is buried way
down on the left side-- I bet you'd have a difficult time finding it yourself
as well if you didn't know where to look).

As it turned out I found the tranny stick just fine.


Jeff Strickland wrote:
>This really hurts, but I have to agree with John here.
>
>If you can't find the dip stick, you should just lower the hood and take it
>to a friend or relative that knows this sort of stuff.
>
>Surely, if you need us to tell you where the dip sticks are, we won't be
>able to give you enough details to help with the other stuff you need to
>look for.
>
>> you can't find the dipsticks for tranny and crankcase without
>> instructions?
>[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>>>
>>> TIA


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200510/1

OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
here's the skinny.

It's a:
93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
208K miles.
Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).
Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck
in locked/closed.
She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now
the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).
Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.

All that stuff I can live with. Here's where I need advice.

I did the fig 8's (about 8 of them) at low speed to check the VC, no steering
wheel jumping or tire scrub/squeal, so the VC seems to be OK BUT--

on one of the 8's, the tranny seemed to momentarily slip. She indicated that
she has been noticing that "slip" over the last few weeks. For ex., off the
line, once in a blue moon it will momentarily slip.

OK.

Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.
Power steering fluid also near empty.

She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers
as detailed in the OP.

She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to
recall some "pump" that she changed.

She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC
belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
cracking.

Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from
60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it
accelerates quickly.

She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.

I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.

The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said
that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and
the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.

Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
he said should be replaced.

The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
would have more "punch" when flooring it.

I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
assume it doesn't.

Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.

Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak
so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be
replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.

At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet.
He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked
out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which
is expensive.

The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is
located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being
exposed to leaking tranny fluid.

Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says
that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case
itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission
fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the
case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down
from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the
hood.

I am thinking he is talking about "greasing" the differential or something
like that (another friend had an 88 blazer and I recall something to that
effect).

So what is correct/ What do you guys think?

Overall?

Still worth $1000? Even if the diff/trans case need replacing?

Could I get 2 yrs/20K miles out of it as is, just by adding fluids as needed?

Thanks all-- you've been extremely helpful thus far- Much appreciated.

Jim


--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

I would take it to another mechanic just for a second opinion. Sure
wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make
leak detection a lot easier. The transfer case could be the rear seal.
There was a problem with the transfer case switch. My Dad's 94GC had the
same problem. I think he replaced the switch.
You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?
I think there was a recall on the ABS pump, but that may have been on
earlier years. There is a web site (which I no longer have) that can help
on recall information.
Other than that, I would probably get it, but I have a reputation for
bringing home stray Jeeps and nursing them back to health.

Good luck,
chris d
83CJ8, 94YJ, 92XJ, 90XJ,86XJ,89GW,DJ5,84XJ
--

"jimboe via CarKB.com" <u15312@uwe> wrote in message
news:5696eb60d260f@uwe...
> OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
> here's the skinny.
>
> It's a:
> 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 208K miles.
> Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
> winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).
> Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently
> stuck
> in locked/closed.
> She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but
> now
> the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).
> Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.
>
> All that stuff I can live with. Here's where I need advice.
>
> I did the fig 8's (about 8 of them) at low speed to check the VC, no
> steering
> wheel jumping or tire scrub/squeal, so the VC seems to be OK BUT--
>
> on one of the 8's, the tranny seemed to momentarily slip. She indicated
> that
> she has been noticing that "slip" over the last few weeks. For ex., off
> the
> line, once in a blue moon it will momentarily slip.
>
> OK.
>
> Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.
> Power steering fluid also near empty.
>
> She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are
> hers
> as detailed in the OP.
>
> She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems
> to
> recall some "pump" that she changed.
>
> She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The
> Alt./AC
> belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
> cracking.
>
> Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say
> from
> 60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and
> it
> accelerates quickly.
>
> She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.
>
> I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
> reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
> reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.
>
> The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech
> said
> that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly,
> and
> the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.
>
> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm
> while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess).
> Both
> he said should be replaced.
>
> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the
> car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.
>
> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
>
> Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.
>
> Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
> into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a
> leak
> so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to
> be
> replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.
>
> At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was
> wet.
> He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it
> leaked
> out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced--
> which
> is expensive.
>
> The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes
> is
> located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by
> being
> exposed to leaking tranny fluid.
>
> Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95),
> says
> that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the
> case
> itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the
> transmission
> fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that
> the
> case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it
> down
> from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under
> the
> hood.
>
> I am thinking he is talking about "greasing" the differential or something
> like that (another friend had an 88 blazer and I recall something to that
> effect).
>
> So what is correct/ What do you guys think?
>
> Overall?
>
> Still worth $1000? Even if the diff/trans case need replacing?
>
> Could I get 2 yrs/20K miles out of it as is, just by adding fluids as
> needed?
>
> Thanks all-- you've been extremely helpful thus far- Much appreciated.
>
> Jim
>
>
> --
> Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

jimboe via CarKB.com did pass the time by typing:
> OK, now that I've spoken/met with the owner and driven/checked the car,
> here's the skinny.
>
> It's a:
> 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, V8 5.2
> 208K miles.
> Has had a minor frontal, which caused the hood on the pas side by the
> winshield to be a bit askew/lifted/opened (1/2 inch).

Considering the ZJ is a uniframe/unibody mix you should look at the
front cross members and radiator supports for damage. If all they
did is whack the hood/grill then your ok. A bit of body work or simple
adjustment should bring the hood corner back down.

An alignment check is in order.

> Rear pas door lock mechanism is broken (internally), so it's currently stuck
> in locked/closed.

Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?
If so this is going to be a real pain to fix since taking the door panel off
with the door shut is difficult. The lock mechanisim is a single unit but
the clipon plastics are available through NAPA or the dealer.

> She had been hit from behind several yrs earlier, all damage repaired but now
> the hatch doesn't stay opened (hydrolics need to be replaced).

The lift gate gas-struts go bad in just a few years anyway, that's normal.
They arn't real cheap though. NAPA sells them.

> Rear bumper seems likes it's not fastened on strongly.

The rear bumper is only held on by a slider clip on each side and
a handfull of plastic reusable popthingies. Some under the bumper and the
rest under the tread plate.

> Next. I checked tranny fluid-- it was about empty.

You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.

> Power steering fluid also near empty.

Not a biggie, nothing gets damaged long as there is a little fluid in there.

> She's the 2nd owner. Bought it in 97 with 78K. The rest of the miles are hers
> as detailed in the OP.
>
> She's not done any major maintenence, only oil/filter, brakes, she seems to
> recall some "pump" that she changed.
>
> She's not sure if she ever did a tune-up. Doesn't look like it. The Alt./AC
> belt seems like it might not have to much time left- it exhibits some
> cracking.

If the unibelt has any cracks it should be replaced pronto. Again, not a difficult
thing to do and NAPA/autozone/pepboys has the belt. I personally prefer Dayco Polycog.

> Driving it on the highway seemed fine, just that when "flooring" it, say from
> 60 to go to 75 or 80, there is engine "pinging" as the gear drops down and it
> accelerates quickly.
>
> She's been using 87 octane always-- perhaps build-up.

Could be. At any rate you should do the ignition system, cap, rotor, wires, and
plugs. The plugs will tell you what's going on. By the way, I think the 5.2 wanted
at least 91. But that depends on altitude. The lower you are the higher octane
you probably need.

> I brought it to a mechanic. Hooked up the computer, and the car wasn't
> reporting any error codes. Engine idle seemed low to me, and the computer
> reported it between 600-640. I believe that's low.

low, but not by much. no-codes is good.

> The oil gauge also occassionally "bounced" from 40 to 80, but the mech said
> that is probably a faulty sensor since it wasnt jumping wildly/constanly, and
> the engine idle and engine running is basically smooth.

Loose or dirty connector to the pressure sender.

> Left side of the throttle-arm (the tab you can bend to adjust the rpm while
> idling) are 2 cables "facing" one another, each cables' end, covered by a
> black plastic cap (like a pen cap). Mechanic said one is for cruise ctrl,
> other is for the transmission. The end of each wasn't connected to, or
> otherwise hooked up to anynthing (like the throttle adjuster I guess). Both
> he said should be replaced.

The ends do. The tranny cable (kickdown cable) is important as it clues your
transmission into shifting down when you open the throttle all the way.

> The transmission cable was loose/had alot of play. He indicated that by
> replacing it, or otherwise using some type of kludge to tighten it, the car
> would have more "punch" when flooring it.

The transmission kickdown cable has an adjuster. You push the little button in
and take up the slack. It then ratchets back to where it is supposed to be.

> I don't know if the cruise works, neither does she. I didn't test it. I
> assume it doesn't.
>
> Some/all of the motor mounts need to be replaced.

A pain, but not impossible. Believable in a vehicle that old. I'm on
my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.

> Underneath, the mechanic noted a very small amount of oil when looking up
> into the engine- nothing major there, but, the power steering pump has a leak
> so either it's a hose to/from the pump, or the pump itself would have to be
> replaced. I'd have to fill it and see how quickly it leaks out.

Leaks are commonly, the return hose at bottle and the O ring between the bottle
and pump.

> At the middle-rear of the underside, the differential/transfer case was wet.
> He said that is why there's no transmission fluid in the car- that it leaked
> out from there-- and that possibly the case could have to be replaced-- which
> is expensive.

The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
part is squeezing in the fluid.

Now if it's ran dry the chain inside could have been damaged. That's fairly
unlikely though.

> The console inside is indicating "SERVICE 4WD SWITCH", which he believes is
> located on top of the transfer case, and that perhaps it got fouled by being
> exposed to leaking tranny fluid.

Yep. Problem is to replace the switch on some you have to take the case out.
All it does is change the tire lights and 4hi 4lo indicator. Not a critical
circuit.

> Now a question on the differential/transfer case. My friend (on his 95), says
> that perhaps the case just needs the gasket to be changed, and not the case
> itself (he had this done). My friend seems to believe that the transmission
> fluid being empty is unrelated to the wet diff/trans case. He says that the
> case uses "it's own" fluid, and that to be filled the mechanic drops it down
> from the underside and "injects" the fluid in there, and not from under the
> hood.

If you want to get an idea on parts costs use these folks. They are a dealer
I've used in the past but they don't try to screw you with markup.

http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.cox.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

J. C. Duchock wrote:
>wouldn't hurt. If you can, have the underside cleaned and then rechecked.
>If you are able, get some tranny dye in. Under a florescent light it make

This proly wont happen at this point-- not enough time..

> You haven't mentioned rust. Is the under carriage solid? Were the
>repairs done properly? Does the vehicle track straight?

No unusual rust underneath (just the center pipe (resonator I suppose)) which
I don't think is too unusual.

If by "tracks" straight, you mean "drives" straight, it seems to drive/ride
(street or highway) fine.

Jim


--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

DougW wrote:
>Depending on what's broken it could be as simple as the plastic pawl or as
>involved as the lock mechanisim. You couldn't open it from inside or outside?

Not from in or outside.

>You found the reason for the slip. Long as it wasn't dry, adding
>more fluid should be all you need. Although I'd pesonally drop the
>pan and clean the filter and inspect just to be sure.

This is good to know. I put 2 quarts (well my mech did) at the time. Seemed
OK after for the 20 min ride back.

>my second pair. You will also have a transmission mount that will need
>to be replaced at the same time or the engine will not sit properly.

You mean, along with the motor mounts I mentioned, correct?

>The case has it's own fluid and is not part of the transmission.
>There is one bolt on top and one lower. depending on the transfer case
>it's just ATF+3 and you take both bolts out, drain, put in the lower one
>and fill till it comes out the top hole, then put the bolt back in. Hardest
>part is squeezing in the fluid.

OK. So, my friend was right. That diff/trans. case, has its' OWN fluid,
separate from the tranny fluid that gets "loaded" into the front, under the
hood.

So then why would the tranny fluid have been near empty? The mech said there
didn't appear to be any tranny leaks at the front (and I didn't see any
earlier in the day when I looked underneath either), and that it should not
be empty, UNLESS it leaked out-- then he noted the diff/trans case being
"wet" and said, "..because it proly leaked out here."

Great info!
Thx


--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com