1inch body lift "self-built pucks"

i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
what grade bolts would be needed,
,
what diam would the Pucks have to be?

and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?

ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
own,
,
i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
there notes section says that it increses vibration,

cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
i could make one of these on my mill, ,
,
will i have vibration trouble doing this?

thanks for the help,
johnp

forgot to mention its a 90 wrangler, w/2.5l mousecage,
johnp

forgot to mention its a 90 wrangler, w/2.5l mousecage,
johnp

I do not think aluminum 'pucks' are a good idea at all.

The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.

This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.

On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.

My $0.02,

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp

I do not think aluminum 'pucks' are a good idea at all.

The problem is any place aluminum touches steel will rot out really
fast. Really fast. Electrolysis sets up. It happens really fast up
here in the salt belt. I have seen several aluminum rims that 'became
one' with the wheel hub, literally. The last one was on the tenant's 92
Jeep and when it finally got pounded off, almost 1" of rim was left on
the hub.

This goes for the frame mounts, bolts, body tub or any washers that come
in contact with it.

On some static applications you can use some special antiseize compounds
to slow down the damage, but mounts are basically moving parts.

My $0.02,

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wrote:
>
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp

i could also do them in steel

johnp

The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood sporting
goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> i could also do them in steel
>
> johnp
>

Other than adding weight, I don't see why not. Brass would be easier to
work, but expensive.

You still will/should have the rubber mounts in there but you lose the
shock absorber effect with body lifts usually so the ride will be
harsher.

The stock mount is two rubber doughnuts sandwiching the frame mount with
a steel tube down the middle. The bolt and washers come up tight on the
steel tube so it can only compress the rubber so much and then the two
rubbers act as a shock or vibration damper in both the up and down
directions.

If I was going to make my own, I think I would make them so they act
like stock ones. I think I would drill the puck the right size to allow
a tube to slide through it so when I used the 1" longer bolt and 1"
longer tube, the rubber sandwich would still be there.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wrote:
>
> i could also do them in steel
>
> johnp

That is so wrong in so many ways....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

jeff wrote:
>
> The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood sporting
> goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
>
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> > i could also do them in steel
> >
> > johnp
> >

Hockey pucks degrade and break apart after repeated use, any flexing that
may occur will cause the pucks to breakdown. As a short term lift they might
work ok, but if your ever in an accident and they put your car on a hoist to
"inspect" it and see regular hockey pucks you will have questions to answer.
Mike R knows all about having his J**P inspected after an accident.

Snow...

"jeff" > wrote in message
news:w4ltd.2418$2U2.2021@trnddc01...
> The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood sporting
> goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
>
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> > i could also do them in steel
> >
> > johnp
> >
>
>