1inch body lift "self-built pucks"

In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout I
think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.


-Brian


"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
: That is so wrong in so many ways....
:
: Mike
: 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
: 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
:
: jeff wrote:
: >
: > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood sporting
: > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
: >
: > > wrote in message
: > oups.com...
: > > i could also do them in steel
: > >
: > > johnp
: > >

Maybe it's just me, but aren't those pucks made from rubber for a reason?

The puck you make must be the same diameter as the factory pucks. I am not
sure, but I don't think they are all the same size.




> wrote in message
oups.com...
> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
>

I'd NEVER use the rubber pucks, they deteriorate fairly quickly. (The
kids leave theirs on the rink nearby, by the end of the following summer
they are just crumbly) I MIGHT consider using the polyurathane ones. But
since the whole kit with the structural plastic pucks and the proper
bolts is only $80, why be cheap?

wrote:

> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,
> ,
> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>
> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>
> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> own,
> ,
> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>
> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
> ,
> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>
> thanks for the help,
> johnp
>

Roy, did you realize that the OE factory body mounts are rubber?

Jerry

RoyJ wrote:
> I'd NEVER use the rubber pucks, they deteriorate fairly quickly. (The
> kids leave theirs on the rink nearby, by the end of the following summer
> they are just crumbly) I MIGHT consider using the polyurathane ones. But
> since the whole kit with the structural plastic pucks and the proper
> bolts is only $80, why be cheap?
>
> wrote:
>
>> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>> ,
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,
>> ,
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
>> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
>> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
>> ,
>> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>>
>> thanks for the help,
>> johnp
>>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/

P.S.

As are the OE engine mounts and the tranny mount made from rubber. As
are just about all such mounts made by all automotive manufacturers.
Claiming rubber mounts "deteriorate fairly rapidly" is just plain bogus.

Jerry

Jerry Bransford wrote:
> Roy, did you realize that the OE factory body mounts are rubber?
>
> Jerry
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> I'd NEVER use the rubber pucks, they deteriorate fairly quickly. (The
>> kids leave theirs on the rink nearby, by the end of the following
>> summer they are just crumbly) I MIGHT consider using the polyurathane
>> ones. But since the whole kit with the structural plastic pucks and
>> the proper bolts is only $80, why be cheap?
>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>>> ,
>>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>>>
>>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>>>
>>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>>> own,
>>> ,
>>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>>>
>>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
>>> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
>>> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
>>> ,
>>> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>>>
>>> thanks for the help,
>>> johnp
>>>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/

But HOCKY pucks are not made out of oil and sunlight resistant rubber.

Jerry Bransford wrote:
> P.S.
>
> As are the OE engine mounts and the tranny mount made from rubber. As
> are just about all such mounts made by all automotive manufacturers.
> Claiming rubber mounts "deteriorate fairly rapidly" is just plain bogus.
>
> Jerry
>
> Jerry Bransford wrote:
>
>> Roy, did you realize that the OE factory body mounts are rubber?
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>> RoyJ wrote:
>>
>>> I'd NEVER use the rubber pucks, they deteriorate fairly quickly. (The
>>> kids leave theirs on the rink nearby, by the end of the following
>>> summer they are just crumbly) I MIGHT consider using the polyurathane
>>> ones. But since the whole kit with the structural plastic pucks and
>>> the proper bolts is only $80, why be cheap?
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>>>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>>>> ,
>>>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?
>>>>
>>>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?
>>>>
>>>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>>>> own,
>>>> ,
>>>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>>>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,
>>>>
>>>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
>>>> 1inch block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount,
>>>> i could make one of these on my mill, ,
>>>> ,
>>>> will i have vibration trouble doing this?
>>>>
>>>> thanks for the help,
>>>> johnp
>>>>
>>
>

> wrote in message
oups.com...
>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> what grade bolts would be needed,

I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade 5
bolts.

> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>

Approx 2"

> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>

Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw to
get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
was reinstalled.

There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones are
up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.

Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.

> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my own,>

The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
expensive to just buy one.

> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>

I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration a
tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line the
powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.

> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could make
> one of these on my mill, >

I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.

hearhear! stupid all around.... can't believe the lockout...

"Cherokee-LTD" > wrote in message
...
> In the past I would have agreed with you but with the ongoing NHL lockout
> I
> think it is our duty to support puck manufacturers.
>
>
> -Brian
>
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> ...
> : That is so wrong in so many ways....
> :
> : Mike
> : 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> : 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> :
> : jeff wrote:
> : >
> : > The classic 1" body lift is to go to your friendly neighborhood
> sporting
> : > goods store, buy a stack of hockey pucks, and drill holes in them.
> : >
> : > > wrote in message
> : > oups.com...
> : > > i could also do them in steel
> : > >
> : > > johnp
> : > >
>
>

My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
twenty years, they still look they same.
I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I was
parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
or bends to the mounts.


"SoK66" > wrote in message
...
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
>> what grade bolts would be needed,
>
> I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with grade
> 5 bolts.
>
>> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
>
> Approx 2"
>
>> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
>
> Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took a
> bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer, then
> sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before it
> was reinstalled.
>
> There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
>
> Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to complete.
>
>> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
>> own,>
>
> The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> expensive to just buy one.
>
>> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
>> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
>
> I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine vibration
> a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
>
>> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a 1inch
>> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
>> make one of these on my mill, >
>
> I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach through
> the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
>
>
>

Again "pucks" made out of car tire rubber are somewhat oil resistant and
stand up to wear pretty well, where Hockey Pucks are not. completely
different compounds..

Snow...

"Jeff White" > wrote in message
...
> My fiberglass body mount kit came with rubber pucks that were cut from
> the tread of a tire with a holesaw. They have held up pretty well almost
> twenty years, they still look they same.
> I made my own body lift by capping a two inch length of 2 inch pipe and
> welded them to the mounts on the frame even tested them in a head-on. I
was
> parked and the other guy hit me at some where around thirty mph. No damage
> or bends to the mounts.
>
>
> "SoK66" > wrote in message
> ...
> > > wrote in message
> > oups.com...
> >>i was wondering if i made my own "Pucks" on my lathe with 6061alum,
> >> what grade bolts would be needed,
> >
> > I put a M.O.R.E. 1" kit on my '94 YJ last winter. The kit came with
grade
> > 5 bolts.
> >
> >> what diam would the Pucks have to be?>
> >
> > Approx 2"
> >
> >> and also other than the raidiator, what should i be looking out for?>
> >
> > Depends upon where your Jeep's been and how much corrosives it's been
> > exposed to. On mine I ended up having the left rear bolt snap off, took
a
> > bit of struggle to get the old captive nut out. I simply used a hole saw
> > to get at it and installed the new bolt with a regular nut & washer,
then
> > sealed the hole with a body plug & sealer. One of the large bolts on the
> > right side came out with it's threads, which required a Helicoil before
it
> > was reinstalled.
> >
> > There are 6, 1/2" bolts (3 on each side), ad 5, 3/8" bolts, one at the
> > radiator support and two on each side at the rear. Two of the rear ones
> > are up above the wheel arch and are a bit of a struggle to get to.
> >
> > Again, if these things are corroded this can be a major PITA to
complete.
> >
> >> ive got alot of aluminum scraps kicking around and figurd id make my
> >> own,>
> >
> > The kits are fairly cheap, considering costs of your time might be less
> > expensive to just buy one.
> >
> >> i saw that the M.O.R.E. website has the motor lift for the 2,5 but in
> >> there notes section says that it increses vibration,>
> >
> > I installed a set when I did the body lift. They increase engine
vibration
> > a tiny bit, most noticeable at startup. I mostly installed them to line
> > the powertrain up a bit more. Not sure they're really worth the trouble.
> >
> >> cant remember who but someone also sells a motor lift thats just a
1inch
> >> block of aluminum that bolts under the exzisting motor mount, i could
> >> make one of these on my mill, >
> >
> > I'm not sure the studs on the mounts would be long enough to reach
through
> > the 1" spacer, I tend to doubt this is feasible.
> >
> >
> >
>
>