Damaged SOMETHING with backfiring ...

I am with Jim here.
The exhaust needs to flow, but if it flows too much (no exhaust) there may
be a power loss too at certain rpms.
Also I have seen exhaust manifold studs rust or pop and then the manifold
starts to leak exhaust = noise.
I have even seen cracks in these manifolds.

I don't like replacing the exhaust manifolds on the transverse engines still
in the vehicle unless armed with rust penetrant and a 2-gas torch. I do
live in Chicago and rust is a popular thing here on vehicles. ;-)
I keep spare studs, nuts and washers here to replace the old ones.

Now if you have done a compression test and/or leak down test on the engine
and it passes............then go ahead with your repairs.
Replace one component at a time.
If you know that you cat. conv is bad, change it.
If you know that the exhaust manifold is bad, change it.

SAFETY IS NEEDED!!!

And good luck!
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Jim Behning" > wrote in message
> On Sat, 7 Jul 2007 17:48:30 -0400, "Fred Mann"
> > wrote:
>
>>Well, I got up under the car with the engine running. There is definitely
>>a
>>leak/hole around the exhaust manifold between the #1 and #2 "tubes". This
>>probably explains all the noise (right?), and since it coincided with the
>>loss of power, it should explain that as well (right?). So this is where
>>I'm
>>going to begin....
>>Now the question is, is this job doable for a non mechanic? All the bolts
>>are heavily rusted and I can already see myself crying under the car with
>>rust dust in my eyes.
>>
> No, it does not explain the loss of power. The destroyed catalytic
> converter is the loss of power. The leaky gaskets from 1 and 2 are
> signs. Has your stomach ever rumbled? It is usually a sign that you
> need some food. It is not a sign that you need to clean your
> fingernails. Exhaust leaking out of places it is not supposed to exit
> has two meanings. One is bad gaskets. Two is restriction in exhaust
> sytem. No restriction in exhaust system means there is a lower chance
> of you noticing leaks at manifold.
>
> It is not rocket science to inspect your converter. It requires a
> contortionist though. Remove 6 bolts and inspect both ends. Six point
> sockets and 6 sided box end wrenches work better than 12 point
> equipment. Since you have the converter off you can proceed to remove
> the manifold. That path is full of land mines. Nuts that are a 1/2 mm
> corroded. Rounded off nuts. Get out your Silikroil and start spraying
> those nuts for the next two days. Or if you are good with a torch you
> might get them loose with a torch. I usually have at least a handfull
> of fresh nuts and maybe even a few fresh studs if I have rotten luck.
>
> I would really focus on inspecting the converter first.
>
> I would also get a good pair of saftey goggles. Rust in the eyes can
> be a trip to the doctor.

Well, I tested the car with the converter off. It still lacks power.
I suppose there could be a fragment of gasket in the manifold, or perhaps
the leak around #2 piston manifold connection is causing some turbulence
which is disturbing the flow? This seems a little far fetched to me, though.
Any ideas on what my next best move should be? I'd hate to replace the
manifold only to find that there's a fatal engine problem.
Any help/ideas/ruminations would be MUCH appreciated.
Fred

PS -- I have zero experience working with valves, pistons, etc.

The timing belt may have jumped a notch when it backfired throwing your
valve timing off.

"Fred Mann" > wrote in message
...
> Well, I tested the car with the converter off. It still lacks power.
> I suppose there could be a fragment of gasket in the manifold, or perhaps
> the leak around #2 piston manifold connection is causing some turbulence
> which is disturbing the flow? This seems a little far fetched to me,
> though.
> Any ideas on what my next best move should be? I'd hate to replace the
> manifold only to find that there's a fatal engine problem.
> Any help/ideas/ruminations would be MUCH appreciated.
> Fred
>
>

On Mon, 9 Jul 2007 17:40:19 -0400, "Erik Dillenkofer"
> wrote:

>The timing belt may have jumped a notch when it backfired throwing your
>valve timing off.
>
>"Fred Mann" > wrote in message
.. .
>> Well, I tested the car with the converter off. It still lacks power.
>> I suppose there could be a fragment of gasket in the manifold, or perhaps
>> the leak around #2 piston manifold connection is causing some turbulence
>> which is disturbing the flow? This seems a little far fetched to me,
>> though.
>> Any ideas on what my next best move should be? I'd hate to replace the
>> manifold only to find that there's a fatal engine problem.
>> Any help/ideas/ruminations would be MUCH appreciated.
>> Fred
>>
>>
>
I am with Eric. There is no way a little exhaust leak at the manifold
is going to cause significant power issues.

Did you do a compression test or a leak-down test on the engine? Engine is
probably fine.
It will have less power than stock without the exhaust attached. So
attaching a GOOD exhaust should bring your power back.
Your exhaust manifold leak should be fixed too and it could make a ticking
sound. It the leak is not too bad it should not cause a serious power loss.
JMHO
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Fred Mann" > wrote in message
...
> Well, I tested the car with the converter off. It still lacks power.
> I suppose there could be a fragment of gasket in the manifold, or perhaps
> the leak around #2 piston manifold connection is causing some turbulence
> which is disturbing the flow? This seems a little far fetched to me,
> though.
> Any ideas on what my next best move should be? I'd hate to replace the
> manifold only to find that there's a fatal engine problem.
> Any help/ideas/ruminations would be MUCH appreciated.
> Fred
>
>

I don't know what a leak-down test is and I haven't done a compression test.
Do I need to do both?
Also, I can't seem to find the timing marks anywhere. I looked inside the
port that is on the bell of the transmission and I didn't see any marks. I
rolled the car in high gear and looked in there with a flashlight ---
nothin'. Am I looking in the right place?


"dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote in message
et...
> Did you do a compression test or a leak-down test on the engine? Engine
is
> probably fine.
> It will have less power than stock without the exhaust attached. So
> attaching a GOOD exhaust should bring your power back.
> Your exhaust manifold leak should be fixed too and it could make a ticking
> sound. It the leak is not too bad it should not cause a serious power
loss.
> JMHO
> --
> later,
> dave
> (One out of many daves)
>
> "Fred Mann" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Well, I tested the car with the converter off. It still lacks power.
> > I suppose there could be a fragment of gasket in the manifold, or
perhaps
> > the leak around #2 piston manifold connection is causing some turbulence
> > which is disturbing the flow? This seems a little far fetched to me,
> > though.
> > Any ideas on what my next best move should be? I'd hate to replace the
> > manifold only to find that there's a fatal engine problem.
> > Any help/ideas/ruminations would be MUCH appreciated.
> > Fred
> >
> >
>
>

Also, can I use my Matco oil pressure tester guage to do a compression test?

On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 15:56:02 -0400, "Fred Mann"
> wrote:

>Also, can I use my Matco oil pressure tester guage to do a compression test?
>
no

Have you removed the plastic stuff from the bellhousing? You should
see a pointer. If you do not see a pointer then you need to remove the
plug. I remove the distributor cap. I figure out where the number 1
wire is. I put a socket on the ratchet and I turn the crankshaft
pulley until I get the rotor pointing close to number 1. It is
possible that someone replaced the flywheel and did not make new
timing marks. I also use a screwdriver in number 1 sparkplug hole to
watch the piston come up to tdc. I also do this to make sure I am not
getting confused by all the marks on the flywheel. This is all covered
in the Bentley manual you purchased on Ebay. The manual also has the
restof the story about timing belt and camshaft. If you never replaced
the timing belt you probably should. Well maybe not if you are asking
how to do the job. It is again covered in the cheap Bently manual
found on Ebay.

Leakdown test is answered with a google search.

On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 15:39:50 -0400, "Fred Mann"
> wrote:

>I don't know what a leak-down test is and I haven't done a compression test.
>Do I need to do both?
>Also, I can't seem to find the timing marks anywhere. I looked inside the
>port that is on the bell of the transmission and I didn't see any marks. I
>rolled the car in high gear and looked in there with a flashlight ---
>nothin'. Am I looking in the right place?
>
>
>"dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote in message
. net...
>> Did you do a compression test or a leak-down test on the engine? Engine
>is
>> probably fine.
>> It will have less power than stock without the exhaust attached. So
>> attaching a GOOD exhaust should bring your power back.
>> Your exhaust manifold leak should be fixed too and it could make a ticking
>> sound. It the leak is not too bad it should not cause a serious power
>loss.
>> JMHO
>> --
>> later,
>> dave
>> (One out of many daves)
>>
>> "Fred Mann" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > Well, I tested the car with the converter off. It still lacks power.
>> > I suppose there could be a fragment of gasket in the manifold, or
>perhaps
>> > the leak around #2 piston manifold connection is causing some turbulence
>> > which is disturbing the flow? This seems a little far fetched to me,
>> > though.
>> > Any ideas on what my next best move should be? I'd hate to replace the
>> > manifold only to find that there's a fatal engine problem.
>> > Any help/ideas/ruminations would be MUCH appreciated.
>> > Fred
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>