79 Westfalia Stalls In Spring Like Conditions

I have been battling my Westfalia for the past few years. Strangely
enough, my problem seems to be related to the weather. I live in
Seattle, WA.

Fall - Mild and fairly rainy
Winter - Mild (sometimes cold) and really rainy
Spring - Mild and less rainy
Summer - Warm and dry

The problem:

It seems every spring and on spring like days that my 79 van starts
having the following problems/symptoms.

1. Cranks on first try
2. Loss of power occurs when I get to third or fourth gear
3. Pump accelerator to prevent the engine from dying
4. If the engine doesn't die, it will usually die at the next stop but
not always.
5. After dying, it will sometimes start on the first try but not
always.
6. If I can't get it to start, I go through the following "ritual" and
I'm not sure if it's the "ritual" or the time spent going through the
"ritual" that gets things going again.
a. Check all vacuum hoses and reset
b. Adjust the distributor cap and check spark plug wires
c. Check the wires connected to the coil
d. Ask the gods to get me out of the jam. Not really but
maybe it would help!
7. In most cases, it cranks up after the "ritual" and there is an
obvious difference in power. Note: I should stress "not always" and
sometimes I repeat the "ritual" or parts of the "ritual". It seems
adjusting the vacuum hoses has the greatest impact.
8. Once the engine starts, after a mile or two, the symptoms usually
reappear and I go through the same process.
9. At some point and closer to the start of summer, I go through the
"ritual" and my VW runs perfectly fine until the next spring.

For the past few years I've battled this every spring and then summer
comes and life is normal again. In other words, the van cranks on the
first try and runs like a dream. I get too involved in other stuff and
why fix something when "it's not broken" or "not broken at the moment".
This spring I've decided I would like to rid myself of this strange
dilemma. Have any of you guys seen this weirdness before?

Thanks,
robear

robear wrote:

> I have been battling my Westfalia for the past few years. Strangely
> enough, my problem seems to be related to the weather. I live in
> Seattle, WA.
>
> Fall - Mild and fairly rainy
> Winter - Mild (sometimes cold) and really rainy
> Spring - Mild and less rainy
> Summer - Warm and dry
>
> The problem:
>
> It seems every spring and on spring like days that my 79 van starts
> having the following problems/symptoms.
>
> 1. Cranks on first try
> 2. Loss of power occurs when I get to third or fourth gear
> 3. Pump accelerator to prevent the engine from dying
> 4. If the engine doesn't die, it will usually die at the next stop but
> not always.
> 5. After dying, it will sometimes start on the first try but not
> always.
> 6. If I can't get it to start, I go through the following "ritual" and
> I'm not sure if it's the "ritual" or the time spent going through the
> "ritual" that gets things going again.
> a. Check all vacuum hoses and reset
> b. Adjust the distributor cap and check spark plug wires
> c. Check the wires connected to the coil
> d. Ask the gods to get me out of the jam. Not really but
> maybe it would help!
> 7. In most cases, it cranks up after the "ritual" and there is an
> obvious difference in power. Note: I should stress "not always" and
> sometimes I repeat the "ritual" or parts of the "ritual". It seems
> adjusting the vacuum hoses has the greatest impact.
> 8. Once the engine starts, after a mile or two, the symptoms usually
> reappear and I go through the same process.
> 9. At some point and closer to the start of summer, I go through the
> "ritual" and my VW runs perfectly fine until the next spring.
>
> For the past few years I've battled this every spring and then summer
> comes and life is normal again. In other words, the van cranks on the
> first try and runs like a dream. I get too involved in other stuff and
> why fix something when "it's not broken" or "not broken at the moment".
> This spring I've decided I would like to rid myself of this strange
> dilemma. Have any of you guys seen this weirdness before?
>
> Thanks,
> robear
>
Seattle has perfect conditions for "carb icing", but your
'79 is FI and they don't usually suffer from it.
Still, I would check that the heated air intake to the
air filter is working correctly.

Busaholic to the rescue?

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Yeah, I'm here. This sounds like maybe a house-call. Drop me an e-mail and
we'll hook up. I'm in Renton. -BaH

"robear" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> I have been battling my Westfalia for the past few years. Strangely
> enough, my problem seems to be related to the weather. I live in
> Seattle, WA.
>
> Fall - Mild and fairly rainy
> Winter - Mild (sometimes cold) and really rainy
> Spring - Mild and less rainy
> Summer - Warm and dry
>
> The problem:
>
> It seems every spring and on spring like days that my 79 van starts
> having the following problems/symptoms.
>
> 1. Cranks on first try
> 2. Loss of power occurs when I get to third or fourth gear
> 3. Pump accelerator to prevent the engine from dying
> 4. If the engine doesn't die, it will usually die at the next stop but
> not always.
> 5. After dying, it will sometimes start on the first try but not
> always.
> 6. If I can't get it to start, I go through the following "ritual" and
> I'm not sure if it's the "ritual" or the time spent going through the
> "ritual" that gets things going again.
> a. Check all vacuum hoses and reset
> b. Adjust the distributor cap and check spark plug wires
> c. Check the wires connected to the coil
> d. Ask the gods to get me out of the jam. Not really but
> maybe it would help!
> 7. In most cases, it cranks up after the "ritual" and there is an
> obvious difference in power. Note: I should stress "not always" and
> sometimes I repeat the "ritual" or parts of the "ritual". It seems
> adjusting the vacuum hoses has the greatest impact.
> 8. Once the engine starts, after a mile or two, the symptoms usually
> reappear and I go through the same process.
> 9. At some point and closer to the start of summer, I go through the
> "ritual" and my VW runs perfectly fine until the next spring.
>
> For the past few years I've battled this every spring and then summer
> comes and life is normal again. In other words, the van cranks on the
> first try and runs like a dream. I get too involved in other stuff and
> why fix something when "it's not broken" or "not broken at the moment".
> This spring I've decided I would like to rid myself of this strange
> dilemma. Have any of you guys seen this weirdness before?
>
> Thanks,
> robear
>

Do you ever smell an odor of gasoline, especially just after filling the
tank? Do you park it under a cover? Do you change fuel filters every spring?
If you don't actually touch anything in the engine compartment but let it
sit for an equivalent period of time, will it heal itself then also? Any
black smoke ever? Your item #7 noticeable difference in power - gooder or
badder? What brand and rating of gasoline have you been using? -BaH
(I do think the problem is related to weather but not in the sense you're
thinking it might be.)
It DOES have the stock FI (fuel injection), does it not??

"robear" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> I have been battling my Westfalia for the past few years. Strangely
> enough, my problem seems to be related to the weather. I live in
> Seattle, WA.
>
> Fall - Mild and fairly rainy
> Winter - Mild (sometimes cold) and really rainy
> Spring - Mild and less rainy
> Summer - Warm and dry
>
> The problem:
>
> It seems every spring and on spring like days that my 79 van starts
> having the following problems/symptoms.
>
> 1. Cranks on first try
> 2. Loss of power occurs when I get to third or fourth gear
> 3. Pump accelerator to prevent the engine from dying
> 4. If the engine doesn't die, it will usually die at the next stop but
> not always.
> 5. After dying, it will sometimes start on the first try but not
> always.
> 6. If I can't get it to start, I go through the following "ritual" and
> I'm not sure if it's the "ritual" or the time spent going through the
> "ritual" that gets things going again.
> a. Check all vacuum hoses and reset
> b. Adjust the distributor cap and check spark plug wires
> c. Check the wires connected to the coil
> d. Ask the gods to get me out of the jam. Not really but
> maybe it would help!
> 7. In most cases, it cranks up after the "ritual" and there is an
> obvious difference in power. Note: I should stress "not always" and
> sometimes I repeat the "ritual" or parts of the "ritual". It seems
> adjusting the vacuum hoses has the greatest impact.
> 8. Once the engine starts, after a mile or two, the symptoms usually
> reappear and I go through the same process.
> 9. At some point and closer to the start of summer, I go through the
> "ritual" and my VW runs perfectly fine until the next spring.
>
> For the past few years I've battled this every spring and then summer
> comes and life is normal again. In other words, the van cranks on the
> first try and runs like a dream. I get too involved in other stuff and
> why fix something when "it's not broken" or "not broken at the moment".
> This spring I've decided I would like to rid myself of this strange
> dilemma. Have any of you guys seen this weirdness before?
>
> Thanks,
> robear
>

>Do you ever smell an odor of gasoline, especially just after filling
the
>tank?
Yes and it can be quite strong. I stopped topping it off to cut down on
the smell. If I only fill it 2/3 then the smell doesn't occur.

>Do you park it under a cover?
No. It's always outside.

>Do you change fuel filters every spring?
No

>If you don't actually touch anything in the engine compartment but let
it
>sit for an equivalent period of time, will it heal itself then also?
No, well, not always. For example, sometimes it will die as I'm
parking. I don't touch anything and the problem still exists when I
return hours later.

>Any black smoke ever?
No but It does occasionally backfire (softly).

>Your item #7 noticeable difference in power - gooder or
>badder?
Better. More response from the accelerator.

>What brand and rating of gasoline have you been using?
Brand - The closest gas station and that doesn't mean the cheapest.
Octane - 87 (Have tried higher octanes but the problem persists.)

>It DOES have the stock FI (fuel injection), does it not??
Yes.

Thanks for troubleshooting this with me.

Remove the gas filler cap. Reach your finger in and feel all around the
circumference of the rubber boot that is in there. You will feel a major
tear in it as in probably about half gone. That is where the water is
getting into your gas tank. Because it is fuel injected and the gas in the
tank is constantly agitated, the water stays in suspension and just
occassionaly causes major havoc. When you first start the engine, the water
is all on the bottom and is predominantly what is going through the fuel
rail.

Check for that torn rubber. Call Autovice (Bow-Wow) in Lake City and see if
they have one in stock. Get the earlier model one that does not have the
step-down for unleaded nozzles. (They used to be around $30 for the unleaded
type and $12 for the regular type but have gone up considerably since that
time!)

To replace that hunk of hose is another story and if you need to you can
e-mail me and we can talk it over by telephone when you get to that point.

You apparently have some other issues also. I suspect that you need to
actually remove each of the large vacuum hoses and inspect them carefully. I
think you'll find the ones down under the right side (as you look at it) of
the air plenum - the hoses to the auxiliary air regulator - you'll find
about half a hose gone or crumbling badly. I don't think you can buy those
pre-formed hoses any more. I couldn't get them 10 years ago! Also - the big
"S" hose probably has some big ass cracks in it. I think shoe goo is the
common repair for those. You likely have some hoses that are loose enough to
nearly fall off on their own and a slight backfire or driving over RR tracks
pops them (1 of them) right off!

If you ever drive up any hills or ever get on Hwy 99 or the freeway, you
need to run premium gasoline as in 92 octane. The alternative is VERY
expensive. You WILL need new heads (rebuilt Vanagon heads fit '79 busses)
and new pistons and cylinders PERIOD No further discussion on the issue is
needed. Been There Done That Cost: about $3,000! Doing all but the machine
work yourself, about $1200. The machinist in town is Northwest Connecting
Rod.

Have fun! -BaH
"robear" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> >Do you ever smell an odor of gasoline, especially just after filling
> the
> >tank?
> Yes and it can be quite strong. I stopped topping it off to cut down on
> the smell. If I only fill it 2/3 then the smell doesn't occur.
>
> >Do you park it under a cover?
> No. It's always outside.
>
> >Do you change fuel filters every spring?
> No
>
> >If you don't actually touch anything in the engine compartment but let
> it
> >sit for an equivalent period of time, will it heal itself then also?
> No, well, not always. For example, sometimes it will die as I'm
> parking. I don't touch anything and the problem still exists when I
> return hours later.
>
> >Any black smoke ever?
> No but It does occasionally backfire (softly).
>
> >Your item #7 noticeable difference in power - gooder or
> >badder?
> Better. More response from the accelerator.
>
> >What brand and rating of gasoline have you been using?
> Brand - The closest gas station and that doesn't mean the cheapest.
> Octane - 87 (Have tried higher octanes but the problem persists.)
>
> >It DOES have the stock FI (fuel injection), does it not??
> Yes.
>
> Thanks for troubleshooting this with me.
>