'65 bug... defective choke or heater element?

Hey everyone, i posted here earlier about my run-on problems. Many
thanks to everyone who replied, but nothing worked out for me. So i've
got a new idea. I think that my engine diesels/runs on so badly after
i shut it off is because the RPM is too high. I set the idle RPM and
mixture properly (according to my Chilton's anyways) but now that I
think about it, it's always running much faster when I shut off. The
RPM seems to increase with time, and the heat of the engine. I figured
this was normal, but maybe it isn't. I think maybe it's way worse than
it should be. I've read all about the automatic choke and the heater
element online and in Chilton's, but they never say how to take it
apart or what it should look like inside, or how to test if it's
working properly.

Any suggestions?

test it! When cold, press gas pedal down 1 time fully, turn on your ign and
watch the choke lever release tension on the choke. Also feel the heater
element to see if it gets warm.
Or disconnect it by unplugging the wire and setting the choke to fully open.
Loosen 3 screws, turn the heater element body so the choke is fully open and
retighten those 3 screws.

But if you set the rpms properly how is it running faster when the engine is
warm? The rpms and CO/mixture should be set when the engine is warm or at
normal operating temperature.

Not sure if you carb has an electromagnetic idle jet shutoff or not like the
12 volts do. That might be faulty.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)



> wrote in message
s.com...
> Hey everyone, i posted here earlier about my run-on problems. Many
> thanks to everyone who replied, but nothing worked out for me. So i've
> got a new idea. I think that my engine diesels/runs on so badly after
> i shut it off is because the RPM is too high. I set the idle RPM and
> mixture properly (according to my Chilton's anyways) but now that I
> think about it, it's always running much faster when I shut off. The
> RPM seems to increase with time, and the heat of the engine. I figured
> this was normal, but maybe it isn't. I think maybe it's way worse than
> it should be. I've read all about the automatic choke and the heater
> element online and in Chilton's, but they never say how to take it
> apart or what it should look like inside, or how to test if it's
> working properly.
>
> Any suggestions?
>

wrote:

> Hey everyone, i posted here earlier about my run-on problems. Many
> thanks to everyone who replied, but nothing worked out for me. So i've
> got a new idea. I think that my engine diesels/runs on so badly after
> i shut it off is because the RPM is too high. I set the idle RPM and
> mixture properly (according to my Chilton's anyways) but now that I
> think about it, it's always running much faster when I shut off. The
> RPM seems to increase with time, and the heat of the engine. I figured
> this was normal, but maybe it isn't. I think maybe it's way worse than
> it should be. I've read all about the automatic choke and the heater
> element online and in Chilton's, but they never say how to take it
> apart or what it should look like inside, or how to test if it's
> working properly.
>
> Any suggestions?
>


For the purpose of this problem, all you need to know
is whether the choke is fully opening after engine warmup.

To find out: After shutdown, remove air cleaner.
Look at the choke vane. It should be standing straight up.
If it is, the choke is opening and is not the cause of the problem.

You might also double check that the choke stepped cam
has dropped to the lowest notch for the throttle screw to rest on.

High RPM can also be caused by very small vacuum leaks
in the manifold or the carb.

I think your '65 was supposed to have the electromagnet pilot
cutoff valve. It would be sticking out of the right side and
have a wire connection (in addition to the choke wire).
If not there, it could have been removed. The purpose of the
solenoid valve is to prevent "run-on" after the ignition is shut off.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:

> Or disconnect it by unplugging the wire and setting the choke to fully open.

Just to avoid misunderstanding, what Dave is saying is that after you
pull the plug you have to manually open the choke. If you only
disconnect the wire, the choke reverts to closed.

Dave, I know you said that but some people need a hard reminder. Hope we
are okay.

> I think your '65 was supposed to have the electromagnet pilot
> cutoff valve. It would be sticking out of the right side and
> have a wire connection (in addition to the choke wire).
> If not there, it could have been removed. The purpose of the
> solenoid valve is to prevent "run-on" after the ignition is shut off.
>

i did have my carb rebuilt last summer... i dont have a cutoff valve
now, but maybe i did before and didn't realize it. would it be
possible to buy one and add it on? i have the 28 pict 1 carb.

thanks jjs
Your explanation should help! ;-)
we're cool. lol

"jjs" <jj.nowhere.universe> wrote in message
...
> dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
>> Or disconnect it by unplugging the wire and setting the choke to fully
>> open.
>
> Just to avoid misunderstanding, what Dave is saying is that after you pull
> the plug you have to manually open the choke. If you only disconnect the
> wire, the choke reverts to closed.
>
> Dave, I know you said that but some people need a hard reminder. Hope we
> are okay.

wrote:
>> I think your '65 was supposed to have the electromagnet pilot
>>cutoff valve. It would be sticking out of the right side and
>>have a wire connection (in addition to the choke wire).
>>If not there, it could have been removed. The purpose of the
>>solenoid valve is to prevent "run-on" after the ignition is shut off.
>>
>
>
> i did have my carb rebuilt last summer... i dont have a cutoff valve
> now, but maybe i did before and didn't realize it. would it be
> possible to buy one and add it on? i have the 28 pict 1 carb.
>
>
It's possible to fit the cutoff. The trick is finding one.
The 12V ones are available still for the 30PIC but I haven't
seen any 6V ones new, so it would be a hunt at VW shows and the like.

Jim

I probably have some 6V ones (used) laying around if you "NEED" one. I
don't work on too many 6 volt bugs anymore. :-(
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
t...
> wrote:
>>> I think your '65 was supposed to have the electromagnet pilot
>>>cutoff valve. It would be sticking out of the right side and
>>>have a wire connection (in addition to the choke wire).
>>>If not there, it could have been removed. The purpose of the
>>>solenoid valve is to prevent "run-on" after the ignition is shut off.
>>>
>>
>>
>> i did have my carb rebuilt last summer... i dont have a cutoff valve
>> now, but maybe i did before and didn't realize it. would it be
>> possible to buy one and add it on? i have the 28 pict 1 carb.
>>
>>
> It's possible to fit the cutoff. The trick is finding one.
> The 12V ones are available still for the 30PIC but I haven't
> seen any 6V ones new, so it would be a hunt at VW shows and the like.
>
> Jim