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radiator caps, cooling system pressure
"David L. Martel" > wrote in message ... > Ashton, > > >> No, the car is not overheating. It's never overheated. What happened >> is that I installed an AC unit in this 60 Dodge. That has made it run >> about 10 degrees hotter then it used to, mainly from just having the >> condenser there in front of the radiator. So I was thinking about >> whether it would be a good idea to go to a 13 pound cap instead of the >> 7 pound one on it. > > I don't follow this. Your radiator is running about 10 deg. F (?) hotter > with the AC, so what? Why is that a problem? You aren't anywhere near the > boiling point of your coolant, are you? Assuming you have a 50:50 mixture > and 7 psi your boiling point is about 255 deg. Changing to a 13 psi cap > would improve things by raising the boiling point to about 270 deg. > Unless you are getting close to 250 I don't understand why you want to > do this. Be sure to check my math. These figures are quick guesstimates. > Sorry, sounds like a waste of money. Keep an eye on the temp gauge this > Summer though till you're sure. > > Dave M. > There is noting wrong with your logic. The coolant is already being ported into the overflow tank with the OEM pressure cap. Putting in a cap that cracks at a higher pressure probably won't even change anything with respect to when the coolant starts to go into the overflow tank. In a closed system (completely full and cap shut) the coolant pressure increases rapidly as the fluid starts expanding (without the cap opening the pressure could easily get up to a 1000 psi). Going from 7 to 15 psi would have a relatively insignificant change in the way things work. It doesn't change the operating temperature, just raises the boiling point of the coolant. And operating at a higher pressure than OEM is moving in a trouble direction. BTW, one can calculate pressure vs temperature in a closed system--just look up "Bulk Modulus" and fluid compressibility. MLD |
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