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#1
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Hi again,
Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber Here is a photo: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg So anyway a few questions: 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time? 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice? 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber? 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber? Thanks in advance, Jay |
#2
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
"Jay" > wrote in message ... > Hi again, > > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After > taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it > wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the > Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber > > Here is a photo: > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg > > So anyway a few questions: > > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time? Always > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice? Hmmmm depends on the amount of rust. No rust = easy > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber? $20-$100 each depending on your needs. Unless you do regular and serious off-roading you will get excellent service from Monroe or Gabriel shocks (or whatever name brand your corner auto-parts store pushes) > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber? They work book rate so it really doesn't matter. If he does it in 15 minutes or 8 hours you will still get charged the book rate. > > Thanks in advance, > > Jay > Jay Start by soaking all the nuts, and bolts in penetrating fluid several days in advance. As your Jeep is a '96 it is fairly certain there is some rust. PB Blaster seems to *currently* be the best. You will be unhappy with WD-40's performance In addition to the wrench sizes called for you will need jackstands, vise-grips, a hacksaw with a good blade, and perhaps a propane torch. You won't necessarily be needing the torch but if you haven't already got one already you will need it for household plumbing repairs eventually. Sometimes a frozen nut will respond to heat when brute force fails. A long handled breaker bar or a piece of pipe that will fit will often make the difference in removal. It is recommended that you use a torque wrench when tightening the nuts/bolts. If you haven't got one or a friend with one you can rent one (at no charge) from many auto-parts stores with a deposit. There is little advanced skill required, mostly just patience and a strong arm (or a pipe to extend that breaker bar) If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect opportunity to buy that air compressor. They are useful but certainly not required. |
#3
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
>
> If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect opportunity > to buy that air compressor. To turn 4 nuts? Dude, i need your help when i decide to buy a fuel injection unit. -- Stupendous Man, Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty |
#4
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
It is doubtful his bride knows what is involved.
"Stupendous Man" > wrote in message ... > > >> If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect >> opportunity to buy that air compressor. > > To turn 4 nuts? Dude, i need your help when i decide to buy a fuel > injection unit. > -- > Stupendous Man, > Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty > |
#5
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
And a compressor is REALLY handy!
Jeff DeWitt billy ray wrote: > It is doubtful his bride knows what is involved. > > > "Stupendous Man" > wrote in message > ... > >>>If you think your bride will go for it this would be a perfect >>>opportunity to buy that air compressor. >> >>To turn 4 nuts? Dude, i need your help when i decide to buy a fuel >>injection unit. >>-- >>Stupendous Man, >>Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty >> > > > |
#6
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
> And a compressor is REALLY handy!
You bet it is, but a neophyte should be doing it by hand for a while rather than breaking every fastener in sight. |
#7
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay,
The job is pretty easy, replace both fronts at once. A leaking shock is not a big deal or a huge safety hazard. Untill you replace the shock, your Jeep will be a little more bouncy, so take that into consideration when you drive. Mechanics will charge a lot for this simple job you can do yourself. About $30-50 for the set will be fine from your local parts store. Get a can of PB Blaster, anti-seize, and some grease. For the anti-seize and grease, the parts stores generally have little 'just enough' packets for $1 that will be 'just enough' to get the job done. To Remove: Soak the 2 lower bolts and upper mounting nut with PB blaster. Remove the two bolts securing the bottom of the shock to the axle. Locate where the top of the shock is exposed under the hood. Using a long extension, remove the nut. Eventually, the shock will turn while you turn the nut. Using a large pair of pliers, vice grips, or whater it takes, hold the shock in place by collapsing the upper portion. That's right, go ahead and squish the metal, the old shocks are now garbage. To Install: The bottom of the shock mounts with a bar through the bushing. The bar is flat on the ends so the two bolts will pass through it. This is the bar pin. If the new shocks did not come with new bar pins, press out your old one. Use PB blaster to help, give the bar pin a simple cleaning. Coat the inside of the bushing with grease and press the bar pin in. Note that this may be very difficult but it will eventually go in. After you put the bar pin in, install the top first. The top of the shock mounts with a threaded rod. This is the pin mount. There are two bushings and a metal washer. The bushings have a ridge. I usually put the ridge down on the lower bushing, and up on the top bushing. Be sure to grease the bushings, a light coating will do. Put the washer over the top and start the nut. When the cannister spins, hold it with your other hand and tighten the nut down. I don't know the torque specs, but it doesn't need to be stupid tight. About the time it gets difficult to hold the cannister should be fine. Brush off the lower mount area , put the bottom of the shock on the mount. Rotate the bar pin to align it with the holes. Anti-seize the bolts and tigthen them down. Give your work a once-over, put the wheels on and enjoy. Check out www.autozone.com . Put in your location and vehicle, you may save on the parts. There is also a 'repair guides' section with detailed instructions(with pictures!) for most repairs on your Cherokee. HTH Carl "Jay" > wrote in message ... > Hi again, > > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! After > taking a back-road home last night which although was a little bumpy it > wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil leak under the > Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock absorber > > Here is a photo: > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg > > So anyway a few questions: > > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same time? > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice? > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber? > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock absorber? > > Thanks in advance, > > Jay > |
#8
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
Jay wrote:
> Hi again, > > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock > absorber > Here is a photo: > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg I'd be checking the brake line just in case..... > So anyway a few questions: > > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same > time? Yes > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice? Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix something. > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber? Varies. May as well check around for what a full set will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free. (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for. > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock > absorber? As long as the book says it takes. -- DougW |
#9
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the
brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the leak runs down the whole shock. In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new one. On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" > wrote: > Jay wrote: > > Hi again, > > > > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! > > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little > > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil > > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock > > absorber > > Here is a photo: > > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg > > I'd be checking the brake line just in case..... > > > So anyway a few questions: > > > > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same > > time? > > Yes > > > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice? > > Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other > excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix > something. > > > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber? > > Varies. May as well check around for what a full set > will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free. > (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like > they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp > > I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and > fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for. > > > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock > > absorber? > > As long as the book says it takes. > -- Will Honea |
#10
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Shock Absorber Leaking HELP!
I've tried using that before, but on a Cherokee I find it's a PITA to hold
two wrenches in the very confined space, let alone trying to break a rusted nut free. I'd much rather clamp some vice grips on the old shock and break the nut free out on the open with a socket wrench. My .02 Carl "Will Honea" > wrote in message ... >I was going to say the same thing - the shock looks dry above the > brake line level but the leak is most often around the seal at the top > of the cylinder where the rod goes in (hidden by the skirt) and the > leak runs down the whole shock. > > In addition to the other answers, if you look at the top of the mount > you will usually see a bit of the rod continue above the threaded part > where the big nut goes. Some ar hex, others flattened, some just > round. In any case, you can usually get a wrench or visegrips on that > top tit to hold the rod as you take the top nut off or intall the new > one. > > On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:19:53 UTC "DougW" > > wrote: > >> Jay wrote: >> > Hi again, >> > >> > Well it looks like I have a further problem with my 1996 Cerokee! >> > After taking a back-road home last night which although was a little >> > bumpy it wasn't that bad, I noticed this morning that I have an oil >> > leak under the Jeep. It looks like it is coming from the shock >> > absorber >> > Here is a photo: >> > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jay.jon...ges/shocks.jpg >> >> I'd be checking the brake line just in case..... >> >> > So anyway a few questions: >> > >> > 1) Should I replace both shock absorbers at the front at the same >> > time? >> >> Yes >> >> > 2) How easy is this to do for a complete novice? >> >> Very easy (if you have the proper tools) And what other >> excuse do you need to buy those tools than having to fix >> something. >> >> > 3) How much should I be paying for a shock absorber? >> >> Varies. May as well check around for what a full set >> will cost. Some stores run a buy three get one free. >> (fourwheelparts had a special not too long ago) looks like >> they still do. http://www.fourwheelparts.com/4wp/index.asp >> >> I use Edelbrock IAS shocks, good for off road bumpies and >> fairly good on the highway. You get what you pay for. >> >> > 4) How long would it take a skilled mechanic to replace a shock >> > absorber? >> >> As long as the book says it takes. >> > > > -- > Will Honea |
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