Anyone ever try to fix a heat/AC swtich (in dash)

On Dec 13, 6:31*pm, "Jeff Strickland" > wrote:
> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer to the
> fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it can't be in the
> switch itself and I don't know how Ford/Mazda implements this part.
>
> My suggestion is to buy a new resistor pack (ballast resistor is another
> common term for this part) then set out to find the one you have by looking
> at the new one. I've found these in or near the passenger side foot well.
>
> "DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
> > Hi,
>
> > The switch on my 98 Ranger to control heat, defroster, AC has been on
> > the way out for a while - the only setting that worked was high. *It
> > has now died completely, even high does not work. *I'm thinking I'd
> > like to fix it as inexpensively as possible, what with the holidays
> > and all. *Wondering if anyone has had any luck opening one of these up
> > and fixing it, or if I should just bite the bullet and replace it.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Dan

Well, I located and removed the resistor pack. Right under the
blower, passenger side, against the firewall. Based on the amount of
corrosion and rust on that thing I think there is a really good chance
we've got the culprit. Unfortunately, the monster plug that attaches
to it is a real bear to get off. I located and removed the pack in 2
minutes, and spent 10 fighting with the plug with no success. I'm
going to have to put it on hold for now until I have a second set of
hands available to help me fight with it. I'm tempted to put a hair
drier on it to loosen up the plastic, it's way cold here and I don't
think that's helping. I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and
replace it because I wasn't able to unplug the thing.

Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I'll keep updating to let you all
know if this does in fact do it.

On Dec 14, 1:08*pm, "Jeff Strickland" > wrote:
> "DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 13, 6:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" > wrote:
>
>
>
> > You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer to the
> > fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it can't be in the
> > switch itself and I don't know how Ford/Mazda implements this part.
>
> > My suggestion is to buy a new resistor pack (ballast resistor is another
> > common term for this part) then set out to find the one you have by
> > looking
> > at the new one. I've found these in or near the passenger side foot well.
>
> > "DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ....
>
> > > Hi,
>
> > > The switch on my 98 Ranger to control heat, defroster, AC has been on
> > > the way out for a while - the only setting that worked was high. It
> > > has now died completely, even high does not work. I'm thinking I'd
> > > like to fix it as inexpensively as possible, what with the holidays
> > > and all. Wondering if anyone has had any luck opening one of these up
> > > and fixing it, or if I should just bite the bullet and replace it.
>
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > Dan
>
> Thanks for the info. *I had figured it was the switch only because I
> lost speeds 1-3 well before losing the high speed, but I guess it
> could still be attributed to the resistor pack. *I'll have to see if I
> can find mine.
>
> <JS>
>
> You've just confirmed the resistor pack. If you buy one first, it should be
> easier to find the one that you already have.
>
> </JS>

Thanks Jeff. Finding it was the easy part, it's unplugging it that
threatens frostbite before success. The resistor pack was in horrible
shape, as corroded as you could imagine - very easy to believe this is
the culprit.

DanKMTB wrote:
> On Dec 13, 6:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" > wrote:
>> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer
>> to the fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it
>> can't
>> be in the switch itself and I don't know how Ford/Mazda implements
>> this part.
>>
>> My suggestion is to buy a new resistor pack (ballast resistor is
>> another common term for this part) then set out to find the one you
>> have by looking at the new one. I've found these in or near the
>> passenger side foot well.
>>
>> "DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>>
>> ...
>>
>>> Hi,
>>
>>> The switch on my 98 Ranger to control heat, defroster, AC has been
>>> on the way out for a while - the only setting that worked was
>>> high.
>>> It has now died completely, even high does not work. I'm thinking
>>> I'd like to fix it as inexpensively as possible, what with the
>>> holidays and all. Wondering if anyone has had any luck opening one
>>> of these up and fixing it, or if I should just bite the bullet and
>>> replace it.
>>
>>> Thanks,
>>
>>> Dan
>
> Well, I located and removed the resistor pack. Right under the
> blower, passenger side, against the firewall. Based on the amount
> of
> corrosion and rust on that thing I think there is a really good
> chance
> we've got the culprit. Unfortunately, the monster plug that
> attaches
> to it is a real bear to get off. I located and removed the pack in
> 2
> minutes, and spent 10 fighting with the plug with no success. I'm
> going to have to put it on hold for now until I have a second set of
> hands available to help me fight with it. I'm tempted to put a hair
> drier on it to loosen up the plastic, it's way cold here and I don't
> think that's helping. I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and
> replace it because I wasn't able to unplug the thing.

You did look that plug over to make sure that it didn't have a latch
somewhere??

Tom J
who had that happen once :-(

"DanKMTB" ( Heater fan resistor pack. )

I located and removed the resistor pack. Unfortunately, the
monster plug that attaches to it is very difficult to get off.
I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and replace it.
__________________________________________________ _

The receptacle on a resistor pack usually has a little triangular
plastic ear sticking out the side, to mate with a latchng finger
on side of the mating cable plug. If your receptacle has that
kind of latch, you can pry the latch finger outward with a knife
or a screwdriver while you pull off the plug.

Good luck.

Rodan.

On Dec 14, 6:39*pm, "Rodan" > wrote:
> "DanKMTB" * * * * * * * * * * * ( * Heater fan resistor pack. )
>
> I located and removed the resistor pack. * Unfortunately, the
> monster plug that attaches to it is very difficult to get off. * *
> I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and replace it.
> __________________________________________________ _
>
> The receptacle on a resistor pack usually has a little triangular
> plastic ear sticking out the side, to mate with a latchng finger
> on side of the mating cable plug. * *If your receptacle has that
> kind of latch, you can pry the latch finger outward with a knife
> or a screwdriver while you pull off the plug.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rodan.

It actually has 2 latches, one on each side. I did use a screwdriver
to open the latches before trying to unplug it, with no luck. I also
had a second set of hands help me, with me holding the latch open and
the other party pulling on the unit while I held the plug. We were
still unable to get it open. I've dealt with many plugs in my day,
many of which were quite rusted and corroded (usually on salt water
boats) and have never come across one this difficult to unplug. I'm
at a loss on this one.

Just the fact that:

The plug is stuck, it sounds like the connectors melted together, to a
certain degree.

This is common, and you can buy a replacement plug, as well as a resistor.

I recommend upon reassembly, you use a slight bit of: "Non Dielectric anti
seize compound in the plug"

This will prevent future seizure of the plug, because the resistor generates
a large amount of heat, as it reduces the voltage, and leads to higher
current draw.

RK
"DanKMTB" > wrote in message
...
On Dec 14, 6:39 pm, "Rodan" > wrote:
> "DanKMTB" ( Heater fan resistor pack. )
>
> I located and removed the resistor pack. Unfortunately, the
> monster plug that attaches to it is very difficult to get off.
> I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and replace it.
> __________________________________________________ _
>
> The receptacle on a resistor pack usually has a little triangular
> plastic ear sticking out the side, to mate with a latchng finger
> on side of the mating cable plug. If your receptacle has that
> kind of latch, you can pry the latch finger outward with a knife
> or a screwdriver while you pull off the plug.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rodan.

It actually has 2 latches, one on each side. I did use a screwdriver
to open the latches before trying to unplug it, with no luck. I also
had a second set of hands help me, with me holding the latch open and
the other party pulling on the unit while I held the plug. We were
still unable to get it open. I've dealt with many plugs in my day,
many of which were quite rusted and corroded (usually on salt water
boats) and have never come across one this difficult to unplug. I'm
at a loss on this one.

On Dec 14, 11:18*pm, "Refinish King" >
wrote:
> Just the fact that:
>
> The plug is stuck, it sounds like the connectors melted together, to a
> certain degree.
>
> This is common, and you can buy a replacement plug, as well as a resistor..
>
> I recommend upon reassembly, you use a slight bit of: "Non Dielectric anti
> seize compound in the plug"
>
> This will prevent future seizure of the plug, because the resistor generates
> a large amount of heat, as it reduces the voltage, and leads to higher
> current draw.
>
> RK"DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 14, 6:39 pm, "Rodan" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "DanKMTB" ( Heater fan resistor pack. )
>
> > I located and removed the resistor pack. Unfortunately, the
> > monster plug that attaches to it is very difficult to get off.
> > I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and replace it.
> > __________________________________________________ _
>
> > The receptacle on a resistor pack usually has a little triangular
> > plastic ear sticking out the side, to mate with a latchng finger
> > on side of the mating cable plug. If your receptacle has that
> > kind of latch, you can pry the latch finger outward with a knife
> > or a screwdriver while you pull off the plug.
>
> > Good luck.
>
> > Rodan.
>
> It actually has 2 latches, one on each side. *I did use a screwdriver
> to open the latches before trying to unplug it, with no luck. *I also
> had a second set of hands help me, with me holding the latch open and
> the other party pulling on the unit while I held the plug. *We were
> still unable to get it open. *I've dealt with many plugs in my day,
> many of which were quite rusted and corroded (usually on salt water
> boats) and have never come across one this difficult to unplug. *I'm
> at a loss on this one.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks. I was leaning toward having to replace the plug anyway, I had
another go at it and simply can't get the thing apart. Argh. Oh
well. Could it have melted just from the resistor pack going, or is
this an indication of another problem I need to hunt down?

Thanks,

Dan

"DanKMTB" > wrote in message
...
On Dec 14, 11:18 pm, "Refinish King" >
> RK"DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 14, 6:39 pm, "Rodan" <Ro...@Verizon

Thanks. I was leaning toward having to replace the plug anyway, I had
another go at it and simply can't get the thing apart. Argh. Oh
well. Could it have melted just from the resistor pack going, or is
this an indication of another problem I need to hunt down?

Thanks,

Dan

The main reason is that:

The resistor gets red hot. So the plugs weld themselves to the spade
connectors, and the plastic melts between the connectors also.

I would say, to be safe. Check the ground at the fan motor, just to make
sure that, you don't have another source of resistance.

RK

On Dec 15, 10:41*am, "Refinish King" >
wrote:
> "DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Dec 14, 11:18 pm, "Refinish King" >
>
> > RK"DanKMTB" > wrote in message
>
> ....
> > On Dec 14, 6:39 pm, "Rodan" <Ro...@Verizon
>
> Thanks. *I was leaning toward having to replace the plug anyway, I had
> another go at it and simply can't get the thing apart. *Argh. *Oh
> well. *Could it have melted just from the resistor pack going, or is
> this an indication of another problem I need to hunt down?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
> The main reason is that:
>
> The resistor gets red hot. So the plugs weld themselves to the spade
> connectors, and the plastic melts between the connectors also.
>
> I would say, to be safe. Check the ground at the fan motor, just to make
> sure that, you don't have another source of resistance.
>
> RK

Thanks. I'll be sure to check the ground also.

Dan

On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:46:05 -0800 (PST), DanKMTB >
wrote:

>On Dec 13, 10:56*pm, Ashton Crusher > wrote:
>> On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 23:33:04 GMT, "Rodan" > wrote:
>> >"DanKMTB" wrote: * * * * * * * * * * ( 98 Ranger )
>>
>> >The switch to control heat, defroster, and AC has been on
>> >the way out - the only setting that worked was high. * Now
>> >it has died completely, even high does not work. * * * *Has
>> >anyone tried to fix one of these, or should I just bite the
>> >bullet and replace it.
>> >_____________________________________________
>>
>> >Switches are generally non-repairable. * If your diagnosis
>> >of a bad switch is correct, your only option is to bite the
>> >bullet and replace the switch.
>>
>> >If you would describe the symptoms, someone may have a
>> >different diagnosis. * * For example, if the AC compressor
>> >works and the heater core gets warm, and the heater duct
>> >valves work, but the fan is intermittent, the most likely
>> >cause is a burned-out resistor module near the fan motor.
>>
>> >Good luck.
>>
>> >Rodan.
>>
>> It could be the fan itself that is worn out. * I've had cars where the
>> last speed to work was high and then nothing and it was the fan.
>
>Thanks for the idea. I had figured that it wouldn't lose certain
>speeds one at a time if it were the motor - your experience seems to
>negate that theory. Something else worth checking for sure.

Also, since you are not sure what the problem is,... if you will be
fixing it by a form of trial and error (sometimes called throwing
parts at it) you should start with the cheapest/easiest to get to
parts first. If the fan motor is easy to get to and fairly cheap you
might start with it since the worst that can happen is you have a new,
but unneeded fan motor in it. If you start with the dash switch you
could wind up with the whole dash apart getting to it and then finding
out it's not the problem.