AC Leaking fast 94 SC2

Hi folks.
I just got this car, 94 saturn sc2 85000 on it. Its in perfect shape
except the AC doesn't work. I tried to charge it up, it leaked out so
fast. I did some searching around and found that seals go bad. So I
replaced 2 o rings at the compressor. Tried again, no luck. It was
strange that when I put on the new o rings, it didn't "feel" like they
were making contact around the seal, oh well the stealer charged me $4
for 2 little o rings, I am pretty sure if you went to home depot and
picked up a 3/8" one and a 1/2" one you could save yourself about
$3.75. Oh well.

So any how, I bought a can of UV dye and a light to look for leaks,
but haven't tried yet.

Anyone have any ideas or sugestions?

Thanks,
Steve

In article >,
says...
> Hi folks.
> I just got this car, 94 saturn sc2 85000 on it. Its in perfect shape
> except the AC doesn't work. I tried to charge it up, it leaked out so
> fast. I did some searching around and found that seals go bad. So I
> replaced 2 o rings at the compressor. Tried again, no luck. It was
> strange that when I put on the new o rings, it didn't "feel" like they
> were making contact around the seal, oh well the stealer charged me $4
> for 2 little o rings, I am pretty sure if you went to home depot and
> picked up a 3/8" one and a 1/2" one you could save yourself about
> $3.75. Oh well.
>
> So any how, I bought a can of UV dye and a light to look for leaks,
> but haven't tried yet.
>
> Anyone have any ideas or sugestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve

You might need a leak detector. One way of finding out if the evaporator
is leaking (which u cant see with dye) is to stick the sniffer into the
vents and after letting the pressure in the ac system leak off then bump
the blower to get a reading.

The o-rings in a ac system tend to sometimes be of a special blend so I
dont know if any old orings would be compatible. Speaking of saving 25
cents how about spending a "little" more for a great deal more.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2901

A fast leak would suggest that there is a hole somewhere as opposed to
leaky o-rings / seals.

Check the condenser that bolts to the radiator. Maybe a stone hit it.

If you have had other work done on the car, check the aluminum pipes in
& out of the compressor. They can be bent & thus break quite easily
when an impatient "mechanic" wants better access to another component.

A fast leak should not be too difficult too find, since the refrigerant
& compressor oil are a mixed solution. Get a chiltons, haynes, etc.
manual and trace the AC plumbing and look for oliy areas. I think AC
oil is clear, not golden/brown in color like motor oil, but oily
nonetheless. So, where there is a leak, there will be residual, oily
film.


=================================

" ..... I ain't no bandleader!!"

Thanks for the tip. I will check that tonight when I get it up on some ramps.

(Jack Woltz) wrote in message >...
> A fast leak would suggest that there is a hole somewhere as opposed to
> leaky o-rings / seals.
>
> Check the condenser that bolts to the radiator. Maybe a stone hit it.
>
> If you have had other work done on the car, check the aluminum pipes in
> & out of the compressor. They can be bent & thus break quite easily
> when an impatient "mechanic" wants better access to another component.
>
> A fast leak should not be too difficult too find, since the refrigerant
> & compressor oil are a mixed solution. Get a chiltons, haynes, etc.
> manual and trace the AC plumbing and look for oliy areas. I think AC
> oil is clear, not golden/brown in color like motor oil, but oily
> nonetheless. So, where there is a leak, there will be residual, oily
> film.
>
>
> =================================
>
> " ..... I ain't no bandleader!!"

okay, you were right, it took a major rock to the condenser, and thats
where the leaks is too.

Now my next question is how to get it out and get another one in.

I wouldn't be opposed to removing the radiator, it probably needs a
coolant change anyways.

Best to get a chiltons or haynes manual. They are $15-$20, available at
pep boys, autozone, , amazon, etc. I used these books to replace the
radiator on a 92 SL2 a few months ago. The condenser removal should be
outlined there, too.

Speaking of radiators, check the driver's side tank for cracking below
the hose neck. It's a VERY common problem which can't be fixed. The
radiator will need to be replaced. It might not leak now, but it won't
be fun if it bursts in August, so check carefully.

Replacing the condenser may require other steps not discussed in the
chiltons or haynes, due to opening of the AC system. I would look for
other info elsewhere on the net about recharging the system, converting
from R12 to R134A (if applicable), etc. A good starting point would be
to do a google search of this group, and a search of the tech forum at
www.saturnfans.com


=================================

" ..... I ain't no bandleader!!"

If there was a rupture to the sealed system, the receiver/dryer should be
replaced also.
There is no good way to determine how much oil was lost through the leak so
it is best to start fresh and have the entire AC system flushed out and
recharged with oil and the appropriate working fluid.
Given this, if you decide to change over to HC134A, the old oil has to be
removed and the new compatible oil added. I have heard it both ways from may
folks whether 134 works well in systems designed for R12. The compressor has
to work at a higher pressure and the evaporator pressure is different too.
I recharged a R12 system with a new variant called Frig12 or FR12. Costs a
fraction of R12 which is almost unobtainable now anyway. The FR12 does well
in systems originally designed for R12. you can't buy it over the counter
unless you have an EPA license but many shops already use this.

Hope this helps to guide you
Oppie


"Jack Woltz" > wrote in message
...
> Best to get a chiltons or haynes manual. They are $15-$20, available at
> pep boys, autozone, , amazon, etc. I used these books to replace the
> radiator on a 92 SL2 a few months ago. The condenser removal should be
> outlined there, too.
>
> Speaking of radiators, check the driver's side tank for cracking below
> the hose neck. It's a VERY common problem which can't be fixed. The
> radiator will need to be replaced. It might not leak now, but it won't
> be fun if it bursts in August, so check carefully.
>
> Replacing the condenser may require other steps not discussed in the
> chiltons or haynes, due to opening of the AC system. I would look for
> other info elsewhere on the net about recharging the system, converting
> from R12 to R134A (if applicable), etc. A good starting point would be
> to do a google search of this group, and a search of the tech forum at
> www.saturnfans.com
>
>
> =================================
>
> " ..... I ain't no bandleader!!"
>