RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X

Hello. I have a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-speed manual tranny and
Dana 30 in the front and 35 in the rear with the 3.07 gearing. I will
be putting a 3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift on it with 33 X 12.5
tires. Here is the question that I am not sure of:

My stock rims are 15 X 7. I know I need a 10 inch wide rim to
accommodate the 12.5 inch wide tires. Can I put a 16 X 10 rim on my
Wrangler without causing any problems, or would I be better off just
putting a 15 X 10 rim on it? I was considering a 16 inch rim just the
for the extra 1/2 inch of lift. I originally wanted a 4 inch
suspension lift, but I don't want the expense of changing out the CV
driveshaft or the SYE. So I thought the 16 inch rim versus the 15
inch rim would give me the extra 1/2 inch that I won't be getting from
the suspension lift. I don't know if you need this info, but my
current tires are 215/75/15 and are 28 inches. Any insight to
potential problems a 16 X 10 rim might cause would be great. THANKS!

You need to compare the 'tire' height for the different rims. The 16"
rim does not give a 'lift', it just gives a shorter sidewall which makes
for a harder ride and usually way more expensive tires.

You post is very ambiguous, does the X already 'have' a CV driveshaft???

A 1" body lift will give clearance for larger tires also and allow a 1"
engine mount lift to combat the vibes you are 'likely' to get.

Your top end is going to suck with 33's and 3.07's!

I can 'just' get away with 33's and 3.31's with a more powerful than
stock 4.2 liter engine if I forget I have a 5th gear. If I use 5th, the
engine just drinks gas because the rpm are too low. 1700 at 65 mph just
don't work with the aerodynamics of a brick... If I stay in 4th on the
highway, I just checked last week and 'fully' loaded for a week camping
running at 120-130 kph or about 70-75 mph used 23 liters for 200 km or
11.5L /100K or about 22-23 mpg.

No troubles on low end as I almost never even need 1st low gear when
trail riding. Don't want to be in 1st high when crossing a creek or bog
though.... 2nd low is much better.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Tracie wrote:
> Hello. I have a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-speed manual tranny and
> Dana 30 in the front and 35 in the rear with the 3.07 gearing. I will
> be putting a 3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift on it with 33 X 12.5
> tires. Here is the question that I am not sure of:
>
> My stock rims are 15 X 7. I know I need a 10 inch wide rim to
> accommodate the 12.5 inch wide tires. Can I put a 16 X 10 rim on my
> Wrangler without causing any problems, or would I be better off just
> putting a 15 X 10 rim on it? I was considering a 16 inch rim just the
> for the extra 1/2 inch of lift. I originally wanted a 4 inch
> suspension lift, but I don't want the expense of changing out the CV
> driveshaft or the SYE. So I thought the 16 inch rim versus the 15
> inch rim would give me the extra 1/2 inch that I won't be getting from
> the suspension lift. I don't know if you need this info, but my
> current tires are 215/75/15 and are 28 inches. Any insight to
> potential problems a 16 X 10 rim might cause would be great. THANKS!
>

On Aug 15, 8:26 am, Tracie > wrote:
> Hello. I have a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-speed manual tranny and
> Dana 30 in the front and 35 in the rear with the 3.07 gearing. I will
> be putting a 3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift on it with 33 X 12.5
> tires. Here is the question that I am not sure of:
>
> My stock rims are 15 X 7. I know I need a 10 inch wide rim to
> accommodate the 12.5 inch wide tires. Can I put a 16 X 10 rim on my
> Wrangler without causing any problems, or would I be better off just
> putting a 15 X 10 rim on it? I was considering a 16 inch rim just the
> for the extra 1/2 inch of lift. I originally wanted a 4 inch
> suspension lift, but I don't want the expense of changing out the CV
> driveshaft or the SYE. So I thought the 16 inch rim versus the 15
> inch rim would give me the extra 1/2 inch that I won't be getting from
> the suspension lift. I don't know if you need this info, but my
> current tires are 215/75/15 and are 28 inches. Any insight to
> potential problems a 16 X 10 rim might cause would be great. THANKS!

You 'should' go with a 15x8 wheel. The 16" rim won't add any height,
it might make the jeep handle slightly better. If you want to go with
the big and fat round look do NOT go with a 10" wide rim. I you
offroad you will want a 15x8.

Tracie wrote:
> Hello. I have a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-speed manual tranny and
> Dana 30 in the front and 35 in the rear with the 3.07 gearing. I will
> be putting a 3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift on it with 33 X 12.5
> tires. Here is the question that I am not sure of:
>
> My stock rims are 15 X 7. I know I need a 10 inch wide rim to
> accommodate the 12.5 inch wide tires. Can I put a 16 X 10 rim on my
> Wrangler without causing any problems, or would I be better off just
> putting a 15 X 10 rim on it? I was considering a 16 inch rim just the
> for the extra 1/2 inch of lift. I originally wanted a 4 inch
> suspension lift, but I don't want the expense of changing out the CV
> driveshaft or the SYE. So I thought the 16 inch rim versus the 15
> inch rim would give me the extra 1/2 inch that I won't be getting from
> the suspension lift. I don't know if you need this info, but my
> current tires are 215/75/15 and are 28 inches. Any insight to
> potential problems a 16 X 10 rim might cause would be great. THANKS!
>

With 33" tires, the minimum gearing you want is 4.11/4.10 You could
probably get away with 3.73 for a street only rig, but 3.07 is just too
high. The tire diameter affects your height, not wheel diameter. If you
have 5" wheels on 33" tires, they are just as tall as 22" wheels on 33"
tires. If you want to add an inch to your Jeep, get the 4.5" lift. It
doesn't cost much more, if anything. Again, save your pennies. Cheaping
out will only cause more problems. Do it once, do it right.

tw

On Aug 15, 1:24 pm, twaldron > wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > Hello. I have a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-speed manual tranny and
> > Dana 30 in the front and 35 in the rear with the 3.07 gearing. I will
> > be putting a 3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift on it with 33 X 12.5
> > tires. Here is the question that I am not sure of:
>
> > My stock rims are 15 X 7. I know I need a 10 inch wide rim to
> > accommodate the 12.5 inch wide tires. Can I put a 16 X 10 rim on my
> > Wrangler without causing any problems, or would I be better off just
> > putting a 15 X 10 rim on it? I was considering a 16 inch rim just the
> > for the extra 1/2 inch of lift. I originally wanted a 4 inch
> > suspension lift, but I don't want the expense of changing out the CV
> > driveshaft or the SYE. So I thought the 16 inch rim versus the 15
> > inch rim would give me the extra 1/2 inch that I won't be getting from
> > the suspension lift. I don't know if you need this info, but my
> > current tires are 215/75/15 and are 28 inches. Any insight to
> > potential problems a 16 X 10 rim might cause would be great. THANKS!
>
> With 33" tires, the minimum gearing you want is 4.11/4.10 You could
> probably get away with 3.73 for a street only rig, but 3.07 is just too
> high. The tire diameter affects your height, not wheel diameter. If you
> have 5" wheels on 33" tires, they are just as tall as 22" wheels on 33"
> tires. If you want to add an inch to your Jeep, get the 4.5" lift. It
> doesn't cost much more, if anything. Again, save your pennies. Cheaping
> out will only cause more problems. Do it once, do it right.
>
> tw- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Mike--

When I was talking about replacing the CV driveshaft and SYE, I meant
if I were to put a 4 inch suspension lift on it due to the vibes. I
have been told by several people that any lift over 3.5 inches that I
would have to put in a different driveshaft and SYE to combat the
vibes that I would get. That is the ONLY reason that I am considering
going with a 3.5 inch lift. If it weren't for me being told that, I
would definitely go with a 4 or 4.5 inch suspension lift with the 33 X
12.5 tires.

As for the information on whether or not to do 16 inch rims --
THANKS. I just wasn't sure. I didn't even know that I could put 12.5
inch tires on an 8 inch rim. I thought I would run into problems
doing that. And I do like the wide and fat look. Thanks again for
that insight.

So, if I am understanding everything correctly, I could do a 3.5
suspension lift with a 1 inch body lift and NOT have to change out the
stock CV driveshaft and SYE to prevent vibes?

Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
sucking! : O

Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
and light trail riding.

On Aug 15, 1:24 pm, twaldron > wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > Hello. I have a 2006 Wrangler X with the 6-speed manual tranny and
> > Dana 30 in the front and 35 in the rear with the 3.07 gearing. I will
> > be putting a 3.5 inch Rubicon Express lift on it with 33 X 12.5
> > tires. Here is the question that I am not sure of:
>
> > My stock rims are 15 X 7. I know I need a 10 inch wide rim to
> > accommodate the 12.5 inch wide tires. Can I put a 16 X 10 rim on my
> > Wrangler without causing any problems, or would I be better off just
> > putting a 15 X 10 rim on it? I was considering a 16 inch rim just the
> > for the extra 1/2 inch of lift. I originally wanted a 4 inch
> > suspension lift, but I don't want the expense of changing out the CV
> > driveshaft or the SYE. So I thought the 16 inch rim versus the 15
> > inch rim would give me the extra 1/2 inch that I won't be getting from
> > the suspension lift. I don't know if you need this info, but my
> > current tires are 215/75/15 and are 28 inches. Any insight to
> > potential problems a 16 X 10 rim might cause would be great. THANKS!
>
> With 33" tires, the minimum gearing you want is 4.11/4.10 You could
> probably get away with 3.73 for a street only rig, but 3.07 is just too
> high. The tire diameter affects your height, not wheel diameter. If you
> have 5" wheels on 33" tires, they are just as tall as 22" wheels on 33"
> tires. If you want to add an inch to your Jeep, get the 4.5" lift. It
> doesn't cost much more, if anything. Again, save your pennies. Cheaping
> out will only cause more problems. Do it once, do it right.
>
> tw- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
hardware.

THANKS

Tracie wrote:

> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> sucking! : O

Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.

>
> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> and light trail riding.
>

3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.

As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
at speed so you need to use a lower gear.

Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.

On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
from mud. You do have 4 low though.

The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
have very little traction, they float and just spin out.

Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
hung up on stumps and stuff still.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain > wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> > cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> > sucking! : O
>
> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
>
>
> > Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> > learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> > high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> > doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> > and light trail riding.
>
> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.

As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
lift?

Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain > wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
>>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
>>> sucking! : O
>> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
>> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
>> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
>> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
>>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
>>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
>>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
>>> and light trail riding.
>> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
>> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>>
>> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
>> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
>> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>>
>> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>>
>> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
>> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
>> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>>
>> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
>> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>>
>> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
>> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
>> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
>> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> lift?
>

The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
up to shifting rpm.

For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
out how fast 5th will go.

The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.

My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
33's.

Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
the suspension envelope.

I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
like mine the way it is.

Mike

On Aug 15, 3:26 pm, Mike Romain > wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 2:44 pm, Mike Romain > wrote:
> >> Tracie wrote:
> >>> Also, I did forget to mention that my engine is the 4.2 liter with 6
> >>> cylinders. Hopefully this will help out as far as the top end
> >>> sucking! : O
> >> Just FYI, that would be the 4.0 'destroked' version of the older 4.2
> >> engine, not the same animal. The 4.2 has more pulling power. Yours
> >> also has a fuel injection on it with nothing to really 'tweak' for power
> >> where the 4.2 has a carb and tons of 'tweak' room with spark and ignition.
>
> >>> Forgive me for sounding naive (I am when it comes to this stuff--still
> >>> learning), but what did twaldron mean when he said that 3.07 is too
> >>> high? If it helps, 95% of my driving is highway and I will not be
> >>> doing any extreme off-roading. Just an occasional splash in the mud
> >>> and light trail riding.
> >> 3.07's will make your rpm very low for the gear range. They call these
> >> 'tall' or 'high' gears or 'gas mileage' gears.
>
> >> As I mentioned, mine with 3.31's only turns 1700 rpm in 5th at 65 mph so
> >> yours will be more like 1500 or 1600. This is too low for pulling power
> >> at speed so you need to use a lower gear.
>
> >> Even 4th is going to give you issues on long hills likely.
>
> >> On a creek or bog crossing if you are in 1st high, you won't have the
> >> power to spin the tires to get on through or to clear the tread lugs
> >> from mud. You do have 4 low though.
>
> >> The wide tires are also going to be extremely bad on snowy roads, they
> >> have very little traction, they float and just spin out.
>
> >> Lots here in Canada with wide tires have dedicated winters they put on,
> >> these are tall skinny tires. Some of us 'drive' with tall skinnies.
> >> Mine are 33x9.5 and I pretty much never get 'stuck' although I do get
> >> hung up on stumps and stuff still.
>
> >> Mike
> >> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> >> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > So, since the 3.07 will run high, I would just have to shift into the
> > higher gears sooner than I do now. That's not too bad. Just have to
> > remember to do it at the right rpm. Will this cause any problems with
> > the motor with me having to do this as far as 'lugging' or wear and
> > tear on the engine goes? Knock on wood, I do not have any big hills
> > that I travel when I go to work. It's 90% flat roads.
>
> > As far as the lift goes.....with a 4 inch suspension lift (with NO
> > body lift) do I have to change out the stock CV driveshaft and SYE?
> > Or would I be better off going with a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body
> > lift?
>
> The gears work the other way around, you will be in gear longer to get
> up to shifting rpm.
>
> For instance if I want to blow some carbon out on a straight track, I
> can hit 20-25 mph in 1st, 52-53 mph at 4400 rpm in 2nd, 75 mph at about
> 3800 rpm in 3rd, 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find
> out how fast 5th will go.
>
> The trouble with giving absolutes on the lift you want is you want a
> 'borderline' setup. Some shake like hell, some don't at 3.5" of lift.
>
> My CJ7 with it's 3" of spring lift is borderline and I eat u-joints
> because of it. If I run empty, it rumbles, as long as I have a load on
> to drop it that 1/4 or 1/2", no rumble. I have leaf springs and a
> totally different Jeep than yours though. I also have a 1" equivalent
> body lift the way my fiberglass tub mounts so have tons of clearance for
> 33's.
>
> Your TJ is going to be at the cusp also which is why I personally think
> the 1" body lift is the way to get tire clearance, not trying to push
> the suspension envelope.
>
> I personally would stay with a 2.5"-3" on the suspension (well, that's
> what I did), then I would be sure I didn't have to put out for the SYE
> and new driveshaft unless I wanted to go 'really' big. Won't happen, I
> like mine the way it is.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

That's EXACTLY what I am leaning on.....just wanted your opinion
though too. I am ordering the Rubicon Express standard 3.5 inch
suspension lift. I spoke directly with their representatives, and
according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit. If
I were to purchase their 4 inch suspension lift, they told me I would
definitely have to replace those. I am also going to take your advice
and put a 1 inch body lift on for better tire clearance. I do not
want to go any bigger than 33s. And definitely no wider than 12.5. I
am actually contemplating going with 10.5 or 11.5 inches.

THANKS for the info.