RIM SIZE FOR 2006 WRANGLER X

Tracie wrote:
I spoke directly with their representatives, and
> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.

Cool!

If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
same. This keeps your clearance way up there.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Mike Romain wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
> I spoke directly with their representatives, and
>
>> according to them, I do not need to change out the stock CV shaft and
>> SYE because I am also dropping the t-case one inch with that kit.
>
>
> Cool!
>
> If you go with the body lift, you can leave the t-case skid plate up
> high and just raise the engine mounts to get the driveshaft angles the
> same. This keeps your clearance way up there.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Personally, I think you guys are crazy. To avoid putting in a CV
driveshaft, you're going to put a 1" body lift and new taller motor
mounts?? You guys must be seriously wrench happy. I sure hope you don't
still have vibes with all that! Yikes. Lol!

You still really need a proper solution for slapping 33s onto a Jeep
with 3.07s. That is just going to be miserable IMO. Of course, I say put
on the 4.5" lift you really want, a CV/SYE kit, 33" tires and 4.11 or
4.56 gears, and be done for the life of the Jeep, but no one is
listening to me anyway. Welcome to the World of Jeeping. I'll bow out
now and just watch the progress of the build.

Hey Mike! Is it snowing up there yet? We're at 105F down here these days.

tw

Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:

> Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> hardware.

Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters.

Try this: http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
colors and styles of wheels will look like.

The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.




--
~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
{ }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"

On Aug 16, 2:58 am, Garth Almgren > wrote:
> Around 8/15/2007 10:53 AM, Tracie wrote:
>
> > Also forgot to ask one little question. What is your opinion on black
> > rims? My Wrangler is the Midnight Blue Pearlcoat metallic with the
> > black soft top, black tinted side and rear windows, and of course the
> > black fender flares. HOWEVER, I do have stainless hinges on the
> > doors, hood, and windshield. Just wondering if the black rims would
> > look doofy, or would steel/aluminum look better due to the stainless
> > hardware.
>
> Hey, whatever looks good to you is what matters.
>
> Try this:http://virtualwheels.lesschwab.com/v...elsonline.html
> Pick your Jeep and color, and you can visualize what some different
> colors and styles of wheels will look like.
>
> The online selection seems to cater to the 18"+ bling crowd, but the
> maker Allied has a black 15" wagon-wheel style and a silver 15" 10 hole
> that both look very good on the demo's blacked-out Wrangler.
>
> --
> ~/Garth - 1993 Wrangler S 2.5
> { }|||||||{ } "MukYJ"

Mike --
So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?

Twaldron --
I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
tall?

Tracie wrote:

>
> Mike --
> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>

In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
matches it without stressing the hoses.

The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
thing to do.

Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
line up the shifters if needed.

Mike

On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain > wrote:
> Tracie wrote:
>
> > Mike --
> > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> thing to do.
>
> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> line up the shifters if needed.
>
> Mike

OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
making.

The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
--

I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?

THANKS AGAIN!

Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain > wrote:
>> Tracie wrote:
>>
>>> Mike --
>>> So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
>>> lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
>>> my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
>>> inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
>>> t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
>>> do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>> In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
>> body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
>> matches it without stressing the hoses.
>>
>> The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
>> for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
>> lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
>> thing to do.
>>
>> Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
>> mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
>> read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
>> shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
>> line up the shifters if needed.
>>
>> Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!
>

No 'professional' shop will ever recommend a 3" body lift!

The 3" body lift stresses the hell out of the mounts, it will shift or
shear in a fender bender also.

The gear shifters will be trouble, the brake lines will have issues, the
steering shaft length, etc.

I have seen one and it was already trying to shear off so I helped
remove it, cut the spacers in half and put it back on 'two' different
Jeeps to give both a 1.5" body lift.

As your Jeep sits stock, you can already put 31x10.5" tires on your
existing rims and be just fine. Some have to do a 30 second adjust of
the steering stops.

To go higher then only requires 4, 1.5" or 2" spring spacers, shock
extensions and bump stops which all come in a 'cheap' kit.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

On Aug 16, 1:02 pm, Tracie > wrote:
> On Aug 16, 11:08 am, Mike Romain > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Tracie wrote:
>
> > > Mike --
> > > So in other words what you're telling me is that I do NOT need to
> > > lower the t-case? I can just raise the engine mounts instead to keep
> > > my clearance? (I know if I lower the t-case 1 inch, I will lose that
> > > inch of clearance). Will this cause any problems if I don't lower the
> > > t-case? If I raise the engine mounts instead of lowering the t-case,
> > > do I need to do anything with the 4WD system, radiator, etc.?
>
> > In order to use raised engine mounts, you need the 1" body lift. The
> > body lift relocates the rad up an inch so the taller engine mount
> > matches it without stressing the hoses.
>
> > The engine mount change or the t-case lowering will do the same thing
> > for the driveline. Folks use the t-case lowering instead of the body
> > lift, but you want the tire clearance so the body lift is just a good
> > thing to do.
>
> > Raising the engine will then bring the shifters up 'slightly' so your
> > mileage will vary about how much adjustment is needed there. I have
> > read where some have to remove one of the inner rubber boots over the
> > shifter for some setups. Most kits come with linkage pieces to use to
> > line up the shifters if needed.
>
> > Mike
>
> OK....I have one last question about this topic (then I promise not to
> ask anymore -- LOL). You've all been a GREAT help in my decision
> making.
>
> The reason that I want to lift my jeep in the first place is strictly
> because I like the way a lifted jeep looks. I don't really do much
> off roading to warrant having the extra ground clearance that a
> suspension lift will provide. So, with that said, here is my question
> --
>
> I am leaning towards a 3" body lift only with no suspension lift and
> 32 X 11.5 X 15 tires. It would be professionally installed by a place
> where I live that does this stuff daily. Labor and parts they are
> quoting me a price of $1200 (this does not include the rims and
> tires). Does this sound reasonable? Can you think of any problems
> that I might encounter by lifting my jeep this way? I know there will
> be a considerable gap between frame and body, but I am going to take
> care of this by installing gap guards. Will this 3" body lift give me
> the same exact look as a 3" suspension lift (aside from no extra
> ground clearance and the gap between the body and frame)?
>
> THANKS AGAIN!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
look.

Now I have two options....
A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
please?

>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> WOO HOO!! I finally have my combination figured out. Mike....I am
> following your advice. I am going with a 2" suspension lift (that way
> NO vibes and I don't have to lower my t-case and lose 3/4" of the 2"
> that it was lifted). And I can keep most of my stock parts. I will
> be running 33 X 12.50 X 15s on 8 inch rims for that "fatter tire"
> look.
>
> Now I have two options....
> A 2" suspension lift with a full 2" coil spacers and new 2" inch
> shocks, OR a 2" suspension lift with the 2" coil springs and 2" inch
> shocks. Mike, could you point me in the right direction on this one
> please?
>

Too many numbers....

LOL!

Coil spring spacers 'are' a suspension lift and add to the driveline
issues so nice try but...

See my other post about tires and your 'stock' Jeep.

Mike

Tracie wrote:
> On Aug 16, 2:58 am, Garth Almgren > wrote:

>
> Twaldron --
> I appreciate your advice, and it is mostly true (I do agree with much
> of what you're saying). However, I would like to avoid the expense of
> a new CV driveshaft/SYE kit if I can get the same amount of lift using
> other combinations of suspension or body lifts and still be able to
> avoid the vibes. As for the gearing, I do agree. Down the road, I am
> going to change the gearing to at least 4.11 as you mentioned. As far
> as 33s being miserable with the gearing that I currently have, would
> 32s make any significant difference as far as the higher gears being
> tall?

I do understand what you are trying to accomplish...not the way I'd do
it, but I do understand. Yes, 32s would help. Too, be afraid of a shop
that would install a 3" body lift. OMG! Don't do that!

As far as your 2" spacer vs 2" spring lift question...if you can afford
the spring lift, go with that. If not, spacers will be fine for your use.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

tw