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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so
hard -- which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two ago. I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. I almost gave up!! The wood I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed. Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed towing. It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards. Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of people have told me not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease? Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon? How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. Mebbe anti-seize compound, or loctite? -- EA |
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#2
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:08:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"
> wrote: >Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so >hard -- which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two >ago. > >I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and >I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. I almost gave up!! The wood >I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed. >Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed >towing. >It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards. > >Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of people have told me >not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease? >Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon? > >How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and >sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. Mebbe >anti-seize compound, or loctite? Some problems here. Some people put some antiseize grease where hub meets wheel. Only a small amount to keep it from fouling brakes. And some folks put same on lugs. But my car says 100 ft-lbs DRY torque on lug nuts. No mention of correct torque on lubed lugs. If I lube lugs, then at 100 ft-lbs I'm going to SNAP a lug off, or put so much tension on the bolt that it won't hold in a high speed turn without failing. I personally, just guessing, would de-rate from 100 ft-lbs to about 75 ft-lbs if using antiseize on wheel lugs. But that's just me. _Definitely_ use antiseize on rim-hub contact area. Lg |
#3
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
"Existential Angst" > wrote in message > Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of people have told me > not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease? > Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon? > > How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and > sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. Mebbe > anti-seize compound, or loctite? > -- > EA If you had the time to sandblast or beadblast those rims, prime and paint them properly, you could probably avoid a good bit of rust damage. I dont see anything wrong with putting some grease or antiseize at the rim/hub junction, but it would be short lived, particularly if the corrosive environment where you live is as bad as it sounds. We been over the antiseize issue with studs and lugnuts a lot of times. The car companies tell you to do the toqueing DRY. You can clean the threads with a wire brush or a thread chaser if you like. And you CAN apply some antiseize to keep the rust from welding the stud and nut together, but you certainly have to de-rate the torque specification. I ran a Google on this a few years ago, and as I remember it you need to reduce the torque by 15-20%. It doesnt make any difference whether you use persistent grease or antiseize, they both reduce the friction and you should reduce the torque. I have done this is in icy areas where rust is a problem and never had a problem with nuts loosening, but that is the decision you have to make, or not. |
#4
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
Next time they rust on like that, loosen the lug nuts two or three turns
and drive around the block.That might wobble the wheel(s) loose enough to take them off. cuhulin |
#5
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:13:05 -0500, Nicholas
> wrote: >On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:08:28 -0400, "Existential Angst" > wrote: > >>Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so >>hard -- which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two >>ago. >> >>I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and >>I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. I almost gave up!! The wood >>I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed. >>Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed >>towing. >>It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards. >> >>Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of people have told me >>not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease? >>Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon? >> >>How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and >>sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. Mebbe >>anti-seize compound, or loctite? > >Some problems here. >Some people put some antiseize grease where hub meets wheel. Only a >small amount to keep it from fouling brakes. > >And some folks put same on lugs. But my car says 100 ft-lbs DRY >torque on lug nuts. No mention of correct torque on lubed lugs. If I >lube lugs, then at 100 ft-lbs I'm going to SNAP a lug off, or put so >much tension on the bolt that it won't hold in a high speed turn >without failing. > >I personally, just guessing, would de-rate from 100 ft-lbs to about 75 >ft-lbs if using antiseize on wheel lugs. But that's just me. >_Definitely_ use antiseize on rim-hub contact area. > >Lg I always use antiseize on my lug nuts and tighten them down by hand. Ive never found a need to torgue them to any set range. And they come off reasonably well also. I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the road. Gunner One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch |
#6
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
On Oct 24, 12:08*pm, "Existential Angst" > wrote:
> Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so > hard -- *which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two > ago. > > I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and > I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. *I almost gave up!! *The wood > I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed. > Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed > towing. > It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards. > > Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? *A number of people have told me > not to. *Heat issues? *A high-temp grease? > Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? *Alum? *Nylon? > > How about greasing lug nuts? *I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and > sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. *Mebbe > anti-seize compound, or loctite? > -- > EA BTDT. Never had it happen until I bought a car with aluminum hub-centered rims, where the fit of the rim on the center round part of the hub had to be a tight fit. Antiseize on the mating surfaces turned the trick, after a thorough cleaning. I did have to spend quite awhile chipping a layer of very hard AL oxidation from the rim (on the flat and the centering-ring part) to get it to fit properly and without a noticeable (shaking at speed) runout. Dave |
#7
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:08:28 -0400
"Existential Angst" > wrote: <snip> >Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of people have told me >not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease? >Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon? > >How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and >sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. Mebbe >anti-seize compound, or loctite? I've used wheel-bearing grease for the rim/hub contact area and whatever is in my general purpose oil can (usually ~30wt motor oil) for the lug nuts for many years. My truck is a Chevy 1982 K10 (bought it new) and I've never had any nuts come loose and a rim has never stuck on the hub. I always use a 4-way lug wrench to finish torquing down the lug nuts. Learned my lessons with impact wrenches, nuts coming loose, nuts too tight, stuck rims... when I was still a teenager. Don't want to repeat any of them nowadays, except maybe being that old again, provided I can take along my accumulated knowledge ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#8
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
On 10/24/2011 19:08, Existential Angst wrote:
> Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so > hard -- which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two > ago. > > I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and > I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. I almost gave up!! The wood > I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed. > Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed > towing. > It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards. > > Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of people have told me > not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease? > Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon? > > How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and > sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. Mebbe > anti-seize compound, or loctite? I've greased nuts and rims for decades after similar experiences.. Although I managed to get the wheel off by putting it under pull with a puller (like for pulling bearings off, between axle end and steel rim holes) and then whacking it with a hammer using wood between.. Though it was OPEL (Olen Paska, En Liiku = I'm ****, I won't Move). I use a general grease I happen to have, Mobil MP I think.. |
#9
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
"J R" > wrote in message
... > Next time they rust on like that, loosen the lug nuts two or three turns > and drive around the block.That might wobble the wheel(s) loose enough > to take them off. I thought of that later, but this was a rim-on-the-pavement type flat. Altho, jacking the truck up, and doing this back and forth on a piece of ply might have done the trick as well. But based on the unanimous response here, I proly won't have to go through this again. -- EA > cuhulin > |
#10
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Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??
On Oct 24, 3:13*pm, Gunner Asch > wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:13:05 -0500, Nicholas > > > > > > > wrote: > >On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:08:28 -0400, "Existential Angst" > > wrote: > > >>Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so > >>hard -- *which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two > >>ago. > > >>I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and > >>I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. *I almost gave up!! *The wood > >>I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed. > >>Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed > >>towing. > >>It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards. > > >>Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? *A number of people have told me > >>not to. *Heat issues? *A high-temp grease? > >>Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? *Alum? *Nylon? > > >>How about greasing lug nuts? *I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and > >>sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. *Mebbe > >>anti-seize compound, or loctite? > > >Some problems here. > >Some people put some antiseize grease where hub meets wheel. *Only a > >small amount to keep it from fouling brakes. > > >And some folks put same on lugs. *But my car says 100 ft-lbs DRY > >torque on lug nuts. *No mention of correct torque on lubed lugs. *If I > >lube lugs, then at 100 ft-lbs I'm going to SNAP a lug off, or put so > >much tension on the bolt that it won't hold in a high speed turn > >without failing. > > >I personally, just guessing, would de-rate from 100 ft-lbs to about 75 > >ft-lbs if using antiseize on wheel lugs. *But that's just me. > >_Definitely_ use antiseize on rim-hub contact area. > > >Lg > > I always use antiseize on my lug nuts and tighten them down by hand. > Ive never found a need to torgue them to any set range. *And they come > off reasonably well also. > > I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the road. That doesn't work on some cars. IME German ones like BMW and Porsche that tend to have all the parts and especially the unsprung ones engineered to be as strong as they need to be but no heavier. But it seems to be spreading to all newer vehicles. On vehicles like that uneven torquing can cause undesirable vibrations and mimic warped brake rotors. On something old and American with steel wheels, your method is probably fine. nate |
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