81 cabriolet ran with no water

On Jun 20, 9:10 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> No
>
> S.ugar
> H.oney
> I.ce
> T.ea
>
> I think I used to drop the Rabbit engines out of the bottom too if I did not
> want to use my hoist.
> I am currently fighting the engine removal of a '97 Audi A4 quattro. I
> would prefer doing 20 Beetle clutches instead and probably could do them
> quicker too! ;-)
>
>
>
> "Jim Behning" > wrote in message
> > See what happens when you are born to aircooled VWs. Everything comes
> > out the bottom.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

ok well i want to use a hoist cause i dont have a way to drop it out
of the bottom.Is it really that difficult to take it out from the top
so confused.Also i am going to spray inside firewall before i drop new
motor i heard that a high temp paint is good im thinking a jet blck
high gloss.I am so excited about this project of course because im a
girl my friends are like im crazy my girlfriends the guys dig it LOL.
I am really confused on the motor sitution though the 81 motor i found
is in great shape with only 90,000 miles on it for 500 but someone
said a audi and i can find one for 200.But when i spoke with a guy he
said that motor was not interchangable it was born in feb of 81 from
west germany

wrote:

> On Jun 19, 10:04 am, al > wrote:
>> wrote:
>> > On Jun 18, 9:11 pm, Jim Behning
>> > > wrote:
>> >> On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 17:59:43 -0700, wrote:
>> >> >Ok so i am about to buy a 1981 cabriolet convertable in excellant
>> >> >condition except one thing the lady who owned it ran it hot and it
>> >> >shut off on her.She stated water was coming out of the bottom and she
>> >> >continued to drive it that it got so hot and shut off.Well i went to
>> >> >take a look at the car and noticed that the freeze plug was blown out
>> >> >of it.So my question is what is the chance that she shot the engine
>> >> >out or it just got so hot it shut down?I found one engine for the car
>> >> >for 500 if that is the case and she only wants 300 for the car.Also
>> >> >were is the freeze plug on that car i noticed that there was a
>> >> >circular opening on the bottom of the engine located on top of the
>> >> >block looks like a perfect fit for a freeze plug but something goes
>> >> >there it shouldnt be opened like that.
>>
>> >> Plan on a replacement engine. If the car is really in excellent shape
>> >> then it is worth it if you know how to change an engine yourself.
>> >> Excellent to me means good interior, good ball joints and tie rods,
>> >> good paint, good cv joints.
>>
>> > Thank you and yes i know how to drop a engine i have someone helping
>> > me as well also do you know were the freeze plug is on those cars i am
>> > not really familliar with that make.And what i plan on doing is buying
>> > the car getting a new freeze plug putting it inh fill with water and
>> > see what happens is there any other cause that would make it not start
>> > after running it so hot?
>>
>> Freeze plugs are located at the usual place : at the rear side of the
>> block. They can be seen form under the car...- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i thought so this is on the top of the block if you are standing at
> the front of the car and looking down at the engine it is visible and
> is a perfect circle open and looks like you can see down into the
> block what the hell goes there i only took a brief look at the car and
> didnt have the keys at the time also is 500 a good price for a used
> engine and the guy didnt ask me if it was automatic or manual before
> he told me he had 2 he just asked if it was fuel or diesal and if it
> was exsaust
It seems to be just at the side of the oil-filter housing : a metal plate
(cover) held in place by two screws, covering probably an opening, but I
don't know the purpose of it. It might have happened that the screws, just
too rusted let the plate go. A replacement cover might be not difficult to
find; as for putting new screws in, that might be not easy if parts of the
old ones are left in the block...
As for a block, refering to a manual or automatic transmission, it certainly
would be important to know, as they are different : e.g the starter being
at the front of the block for the manual trans., and at the back for the
automatic trans... different mounting supports should also be checked
carefully.
al.

I mentioned the Audi engine.
If you want to keep it simple and easy then put in exactly what came out!
If you are looking for more power then I would have suggested a nice easy
install of a 2.0l engine. Not as simple though but it can open up different
options. ;-)

If dropping it out of the bottom then a floor jack and some heavy duty jack
stands are required. You also may have to remove the front exhaust pipe
from the cat.
If pulling out of the top you probably will need the above and the hoist.
You probably need to remove the accessories along with the crank pulleys.
I am not sure how far you need to shift the engine to the passenger side if
you have a manual transmission.
When I pulled mine out of the top it was an 88 Cabriolet automatic so it did
not have to shift over as far.

I guess pulling/dropping along with the transmission might be easy for you.

BTW I have been running an '83 Rabbit GTi engine in my '83 Audi 4000S since
1991. <g>
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)

> wrote in message
ups.com...
>
> ok well i want to use a hoist cause i dont have a way to drop it out
> of the bottom.Is it really that difficult to take it out from the top
> so confused.Also i am going to spray inside firewall before i drop new
> motor i heard that a high temp paint is good im thinking a jet blck
> high gloss.I am so excited about this project of course because im a
> girl my friends are like im crazy my girlfriends the guys dig it LOL.
> I am really confused on the motor sitution though the 81 motor i found
> is in great shape with only 90,000 miles on it for 500 but someone
> said a audi and i can find one for 200.But when i spoke with a guy he
> said that motor was not interchangable it was born in feb of 81 from
> west germany
>

On Thu, 21 Jun 2007 20:54:56 +0000, al > wrote:

> wrote:
>
>> On Jun 19, 10:04 am, al > wrote:
>>> wrote:
>>> > On Jun 18, 9:11 pm, Jim Behning
>>> > > wrote:
>>> >> On Mon, 18 Jun 2007 17:59:43 -0700, wrote:
>>> >> >Ok so i am about to buy a 1981 cabriolet convertable in excellant
>>> >> >condition except one thing the lady who owned it ran it hot and it
>>> >> >shut off on her.She stated water was coming out of the bottom and she
>>> >> >continued to drive it that it got so hot and shut off.Well i went to
>>> >> >take a look at the car and noticed that the freeze plug was blown out
>>> >> >of it.So my question is what is the chance that she shot the engine
>>> >> >out or it just got so hot it shut down?I found one engine for the car
>>> >> >for 500 if that is the case and she only wants 300 for the car.Also
>>> >> >were is the freeze plug on that car i noticed that there was a
>>> >> >circular opening on the bottom of the engine located on top of the
>>> >> >block looks like a perfect fit for a freeze plug but something goes
>>> >> >there it shouldnt be opened like that.
>>>
>>> >> Plan on a replacement engine. If the car is really in excellent shape
>>> >> then it is worth it if you know how to change an engine yourself.
>>> >> Excellent to me means good interior, good ball joints and tie rods,
>>> >> good paint, good cv joints.
>>>
>>> > Thank you and yes i know how to drop a engine i have someone helping
>>> > me as well also do you know were the freeze plug is on those cars i am
>>> > not really familliar with that make.And what i plan on doing is buying
>>> > the car getting a new freeze plug putting it inh fill with water and
>>> > see what happens is there any other cause that would make it not start
>>> > after running it so hot?
>>>
>>> Freeze plugs are located at the usual place : at the rear side of the
>>> block. They can be seen form under the car...- Hide quoted text -
>>>
>>> - Show quoted text -
>>
>> i thought so this is on the top of the block if you are standing at
>> the front of the car and looking down at the engine it is visible and
>> is a perfect circle open and looks like you can see down into the
>> block what the hell goes there i only took a brief look at the car and
>> didnt have the keys at the time also is 500 a good price for a used
>> engine and the guy didnt ask me if it was automatic or manual before
>> he told me he had 2 he just asked if it was fuel or diesal and if it
>> was exsaust
>It seems to be just at the side of the oil-filter housing : a metal plate
>(cover) held in place by two screws, covering probably an opening, but I
>don't know the purpose of it. It might have happened that the screws, just
>too rusted let the plate go. A replacement cover might be not difficult to
>find; as for putting new screws in, that might be not easy if parts of the
>old ones are left in the block...
>As for a block, refering to a manual or automatic transmission, it certainly
>would be important to know, as they are different : e.g the starter being
>at the front of the block for the manual trans., and at the back for the
>automatic trans... different mounting supports should also be checked
>carefully.
>al.
Well I might certainly be wrong on the starter mount question. I never
had a VW with an automatic.

The Audi 2L I put in my GTI had an oil passage of some sort to the
left of the oil filter. I had to get a plug of some sort when I
planted the 2L in my 84 GTI. I also got a knock sensor kit. That cost
about as much as the engine. A straight engine swap is much easier and
cheaper. If you really dig the car then you could try a bigger motor
when you have some money to blow.

"Jim Behning" > wrote in message

> Well I might certainly be wrong on the starter mount question. I never
> had a VW with an automatic.

Engines will be the same, the trans will determine where the starter goes,
at least on this '81 Rabbit Convertible.

>
> The Audi 2L I put in my GTI had an oil passage of some sort to the
> left of the oil filter. I had to get a plug of some sort when I
> planted the 2L in my 84 GTI. I also got a knock sensor kit. That cost
> about as much as the engine. A straight engine swap is much easier and
> cheaper. If you really dig the car then you could try a bigger motor
> when you have some money to blow.

hmmm I have not seen one of these Audi 2.0l engines in awhile but I am not
familiar with that oil passage unless it was on the oil filter housing
itself. You did good improving the engine management for more power and
economy.
How did you like that engine?

Yeah a straight swap is waaaaay easier but not as much fun! lol

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 06:42:43 -0500, "dave AKA vwdoc1"
> wrote:

>
>"Jim Behning" > wrote in message
>
>> Well I might certainly be wrong on the starter mount question. I never
>> had a VW with an automatic.
>
>Engines will be the same, the trans will determine where the starter goes,
>at least on this '81 Rabbit Convertible.
>
>>
>> The Audi 2L I put in my GTI had an oil passage of some sort to the
>> left of the oil filter. I had to get a plug of some sort when I
>> planted the 2L in my 84 GTI. I also got a knock sensor kit. That cost
>> about as much as the engine. A straight engine swap is much easier and
>> cheaper. If you really dig the car then you could try a bigger motor
>> when you have some money to blow.
>
>hmmm I have not seen one of these Audi 2.0l engines in awhile but I am not
>familiar with that oil passage unless it was on the oil filter housing
>itself. You did good improving the engine management for more power and
>economy.
>How did you like that engine?
>
>Yeah a straight swap is waaaaay easier but not as much fun! lol
>
I bought the GTI from a junkyard stripped with no hood or gas cap. It
was a slow bleed of repairs. Injectors, struts, interior, paint,
axles, brakes, gaskets and all. I was never impressed with the
performance of the 1.8 even with a fresh head, G grind, a little port
cleanup, Techtonics downpipe. When I had the head off a few of the
cylinders had some pitting which may have been from the lack of hood
or missing gas cap. I suspect that my leakdown numbers were not as
good as they should have been.

A few years later I got the Audi block. Same head. I cleaned it up
exteriour. Changed the pan and oil pump, fixed the oil fill hole which
was covered by a cpr adapter, and fussed about the cylinder wear. The
cylnders had a ridge but not as bad as the ridges I saw on Chevys back
in Ohio when I was a kid. I cannot recall what I guess measured the
ridge at but it might have been at least .010. I did not have a bore
guage but I used some feeler guages to guestimate. It was huge
compared to my two Toyotas and my other Rabbit. In short it was again
not as tight a cylinder as I would like. That engine had a good bit
more torque and delivered 30-33 mpg when driving conservatively. The
last tank I had went real fast as I drove it like I stole it. Maybe 20
mpg. I think I would have really liked it with tight cylinders but
even worn it ran pretty strong. It was good on oil. Maybe as fast a
1985 GTI. I recall riding in a newer (1985-86) GTI at an autocross
run. It was much faster than my 1984 with the 1.8. Once again my 1.8
was not in perfect shape. The 2L is a worthwile upgrade if you can get
a good Audi block. Good just means that the person changed the oil
properly so the cylinders are not worn excessively.

"Jim Behning" > wrote in message

>>> The Audi 2L I put in my GTI had an oil passage of some sort to the
>>> left of the oil filter. I had to get a plug of some sort when I
>>> planted the 2L in my 84 GTI. I also got a knock sensor kit. That cost
>>> about as much as the engine. A straight engine swap is much easier and
>>> cheaper. If you really dig the car then you could try a bigger motor
>>> when you have some money to blow.
>>
>>hmmm I have not seen one of these Audi 2.0l engines in awhile but I am not
>>familiar with that oil passage unless it was on the oil filter housing
>>itself. You did good improving the engine management for more power and
>>economy.
>>How did you like that engine?
>>
>>Yeah a straight swap is waaaaay easier but not as much fun! lol
>>
> I bought the GTI from a junkyard stripped with no hood or gas cap. It
> was a slow bleed of repairs. Injectors, struts, interior, paint,
> axles, brakes, gaskets and all. I was never impressed with the
> performance of the 1.8 even with a fresh head, G grind, a little port
> cleanup, Techtonics downpipe. When I had the head off a few of the
> cylinders had some pitting which may have been from the lack of hood
> or missing gas cap. I suspect that my leakdown numbers were not as
> good as they should have been.
>
> A few years later I got the Audi block. Same head. I cleaned it up
> exteriour. Changed the pan and oil pump, fixed the oil fill hole which
> was covered by a cpr adapter, and fussed about the cylinder wear. The
> cylnders had a ridge but not as bad as the ridges I saw on Chevys back
> in Ohio when I was a kid. I cannot recall what I guess measured the
> ridge at but it might have been at least .010. I did not have a bore
> guage but I used some feeler guages to guestimate. It was huge
> compared to my two Toyotas and my other Rabbit. In short it was again
> not as tight a cylinder as I would like. That engine had a good bit
> more torque and delivered 30-33 mpg when driving conservatively. The
> last tank I had went real fast as I drove it like I stole it. Maybe 20
> mpg. I think I would have really liked it with tight cylinders but
> even worn it ran pretty strong. It was good on oil. Maybe as fast a
> 1985 GTI. I recall riding in a newer (1985-86) GTI at an autocross
> run. It was much faster than my 1984 with the 1.8. Once again my 1.8
> was not in perfect shape. The 2L is a worthwile upgrade if you can get
> a good Audi block. Good just means that the person changed the oil
> properly so the cylinders are not worn excessively.

Yeah I think the hot set up for my '83 Audi 4000s back in the late 80s was
to install the Audi 80 2.0l block and use an Audi Fox dual downpipe exhaust
manifold. Also to remove the restriction in the exhaust with maybe the '84
Audi 4000S intake and an Audi 5000 throttle body. I did not go that route!
Too cheap! lol
I only installed the '83 GTi engine, upgraded to the '84 Audi 4000s exhaust
and installed '87 GLi injectors. I have been running this vehicle like this
since 1991. It is my favorite vehicle and it has about 240K miles on both
engine and body. <g>
But rust is getting to it so I found a '97 Audi A4 quattro with the 1.8t
engine to replace it. Engine is knocking due to a bad #1 journal after a
major oil leak on former owner. Now I need to decide whether I want to go
throught this entire engine or just repair what is bad. The head looks like
it was recently rebuilt and the engine runs smooth with no oil burning but I
took it out and have peaked at the #1 journal and the #2 main.
This 1.8t might even fit in the '81 Cabriolet! lol

On Jun 22, 8:50 pm, "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> "Jim Behning" > wrote in message
> >>> The Audi 2L I put in my GTI had an oil passage of some sort to the
> >>> left of the oil filter. I had to get a plug of some sort when I
> >>> planted the 2L in my 84 GTI. I also got a knock sensor kit. That cost
> >>> about as much as the engine. A straight engine swap is much easier and
> >>> cheaper. If you really dig the car then you could try a bigger motor
> >>> when you have some money to blow.
>
> >>hmmm I have not seen one of these Audi 2.0l engines in awhile but I am not
> >>familiar with that oil passage unless it was on the oil filter housing
> >>itself. You did good improving the engine management for more power and
> >>economy.
> >>How did you like that engine?
>
> >>Yeah a straight swap is waaaaay easier but not as much fun! lol
>
> > I bought the GTI from a junkyard stripped with no hood or gas cap. It
> > was a slow bleed of repairs. Injectors, struts, interior, paint,
> > axles, brakes, gaskets and all. I was never impressed with the
> > performance of the 1.8 even with a fresh head, G grind, a little port
> > cleanup, Techtonics downpipe. When I had the head off a few of the
> > cylinders had some pitting which may have been from the lack of hood
> > or missing gas cap. I suspect that my leakdown numbers were not as
> > good as they should have been.
>
> > A few years later I got the Audi block. Same head. I cleaned it up
> > exteriour. Changed the pan and oil pump, fixed the oil fill hole which
> > was covered by a cpr adapter, and fussed about the cylinder wear. The
> > cylnders had a ridge but not as bad as the ridges I saw on Chevys back
> > in Ohio when I was a kid. I cannot recall what I guess measured the
> > ridge at but it might have been at least .010. I did not have a bore
> > guage but I used some feeler guages to guestimate. It was huge
> > compared to my two Toyotas and my other Rabbit. In short it was again
> > not as tight a cylinder as I would like. That engine had a good bit
> > more torque and delivered 30-33 mpg when driving conservatively. The
> > last tank I had went real fast as I drove it like I stole it. Maybe 20
> > mpg. I think I would have really liked it with tight cylinders but
> > even worn it ran pretty strong. It was good on oil. Maybe as fast a
> > 1985 GTI. I recall riding in a newer (1985-86) GTI at an autocross
> > run. It was much faster than my 1984 with the 1.8. Once again my 1.8
> > was not in perfect shape. The 2L is a worthwile upgrade if you can get
> > a good Audi block. Good just means that the person changed the oil
> > properly so the cylinders are not worn excessively.
>
> Yeah I think the hot set up for my '83 Audi 4000s back in the late 80s was
> to install the Audi 80 2.0l block and use an Audi Fox dual downpipe exhaust
> manifold. Also to remove the restriction in the exhaust with maybe the '84
> Audi 4000S intake and an Audi 5000 throttle body. I did not go that route!
> Too cheap! lol
> I only installed the '83 GTi engine, upgraded to the '84 Audi 4000s exhaust
> and installed '87 GLi injectors. I have been running this vehicle like this
> since 1991. It is my favorite vehicle and it has about 240K miles on both
> engine and body. <g>
> But rust is getting to it so I found a '97 Audi A4 quattro with the 1.8t
> engine to replace it. Engine is knocking due to a bad #1 journal after a
> major oil leak on former owner. Now I need to decide whether I want to go
> throught this entire engine or just repair what is bad. The head looks like
> it was recently rebuilt and the engine runs smooth with no oil burning but I
> took it out and have peaked at the #1 journal and the #2 main.
> This 1.8t might even fit in the '81 Cabriolet! lol- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

i would like to put a 2.0 or a1.8 but for right now have to go cheap
way im gonna actually work from the ground up.Yeah i know it's kinda
backwards but its my project car so i have time i will definetly yake
before pics and pics in progress and after ones to.I might need a
little guidance you guys have been great i cant wait i pick car up
monday its my first vw