Installing pistons/rings, into cylinders

Type IV with new cylinders, pistons and rings for 81 vanagon.

I am curious to know the method of lubrication for the rings and
cylinders when inserting the pistons. Got the compressor, and all that
stuff ready to go, but......

Should I coat the cylinders with oil, figuring 10-40W, and dip the
pistons into oil as well to get the rings completely soaked and
coated, do it all dry, one or the other, or is there a middle ground
somewhere? I don't see much detail on this step when I research the
books and the net.

Never done an air cooled rebuild, so I am learning as I go, but I
would like to get this part right the first time :-) Just not sure
what to apply oil to, and what to leave alone, or if it even matters.

I have asked a lot of lame questions in a lot of groups, so if this
one is stupid, go ahead and let me have it <g> I just want to get it
right, the hell with looking smart <shrug>

Thanks,

John

On Wed, 18 Mar 2009 21:22:36 +0100, > wrote:

> Type IV with new cylinders, pistons and rings for 81 vanagon.
>
> I am curious to know the method of lubrication for the rings and
> cylinders when inserting the pistons. Got the compressor, and all that
> stuff ready to go, but......
>
> Should I coat the cylinders with oil, figuring 10-40W, and dip the
> pistons into oil as well to get the rings completely soaked and
> coated, do it all dry, one or the other, or is there a middle ground
> somewhere? I don't see much detail on this step when I research the
> books and the net.
>
> Never done an air cooled rebuild, so I am learning as I go, but I
> would like to get this part right the first time :-) Just not sure
> what to apply oil to, and what to leave alone, or if it even matters.
>
> I have asked a lot of lame questions in a lot of groups, so if this
> one is stupid, go ahead and let me have it <g> I just want to get it
> right, the hell with looking smart <shrug>
>
> Thanks,
>
> John


Regular oil is fine, weight does not matter. You want the rings to seat both on piston and in cylinders, so abrasive is good..
Which means no Moly or any other slippery stuff in the cylinders, will take forever to seat/seal, if unlucky the cylinders will glaze before you even get there.

When starting the engine the first time, only do so very briefly before actually driving the car. To seat the rings take off immediately accelerate to one thirds throttle and back off abruptly as in engine brake. Repeat three times. Next do the same with half throttle also three times, then full wack also three times. Best done in second or third gear to get the needed load.

After this is done you can do the regular nurse/break in procedure.
If you find this hard to believe on a fresh rebuild, do some Google time, it is documented with pictures and all, goes for all piston driven engines.

J.
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> Should I coat the cylinders with oil, figuring 10-40W, and dip the
> pistons into oil as well to get the rings completely soaked and
> coated, do it all dry, one or the other, or is there a middle ground
> somewhere? I don't see much detail on this step when I research the
> books and the net.

When I do this step I first clean and dry the inside of the cylinder
with some solvent(brake cleaner for me usually) and a clean paper
towel. If the paper towel comes out clean after the solvent is used,
then I apply some oil to the cylinder, coat the walls with a thin even
coat all the way around, top to bottom. I usually put a little oil on
the piston skirt as well, but I don't do much with the rings aside
from making sure the gaps are properly positioned.

Do you have Tom Wilson's "How to rebuild your aircooled VW" book? It's
not exaclty a type IV book, but the basic procedures/concepts have
worked quite well for me over the years. It's a good read if you don't
have it already.

Chris