Valve train geometry question help please !

After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
screw lock nuts look OK.
I have been doing this for years.
Is this anything to worry about?

I think this is caused by the cylinder head being pushed out by the
cylinder spacers.

Should I switch over to swivel adjusters?

Are they longer than the stock valve adjustment screws?

I would really like to keep using the stock adjustment screws.
Are the adjustment screws on a Type II, II, or IV longer than the Type
I adjustment screws? Maybe I could use one of those so the lock nut
could use all of it’s threads.

On Aug 31, 6:10*am, Jim Ed > wrote:
> *After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
> threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
> screw lock nuts look OK.
> *I have been doing this for years.
> Is this anything to worry about?
>
> I think this is caused by the cylinder head being pushed out by the
> cylinder spacers.
>
> Should I switch over to swivel adjusters?
>
> Are they longer than the stock valve adjustment screws?
>
> I would really like to keep using the stock adjustment screws.
> Are the adjustment screws on a Type II, II, or IV longer than the Type
> I adjustment screws? Maybe I could use one of those so the lock nut
> could use all of it’s threads.

Sounds like you need longer pushrods.

Max

> *After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
> threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
> screw lock nuts look OK.

It could be the adjusting screw is damaged/worn, or the end of the
valve is damaged/worn, cam lobe getting messed up/going flat, wrong
pushrod.....among other things. However, if your cylinders were spaced
out too far due to shims under the barrels I would expect that to
affect all four valves on that side of the engine, not just one....

I'd pop the valve cover off and remove the rocker shaft and have a
close look at the valves and the ends of the adjuster screws....

Chris

> wrote in message
...
>
>> After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
>> threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
>> screw lock nuts look OK.
>
> It could be the adjusting screw is damaged/worn, or the end of the
> valve is damaged/worn, cam lobe getting messed up/going flat, wrong
> pushrod.....among other things. However, if your cylinders were spaced
> out too far due to shims under the barrels I would expect that to
> affect all four valves on that side of the engine, not just one....
>
> I'd pop the valve cover off and remove the rocker shaft and have a
> close look at the valves and the ends of the adjuster screws....
>
> Chris

I agree with what Chris has stated... only thing to add, if it were a cam
lobe problem you'd have the same issue on the opposite side valve, so you
can likely eliminate that as a possibility if it is that single valve...
unless that pushrod is different than the others(pull the one next to it and
compare the two) it's likely something else... make sure the nuts holding
the rockers down are tight...

I'd rather drive it until it drops than have to diassemble and
reassemble. It runs smooth and with plenty of power.



On Sep 1, 9:33*am, " > wrote:
> > *After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
> > threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
> > screw lock nuts look OK.
>
> It could be the adjusting screw is damaged/worn, or the end of the
> valve is damaged/worn, cam lobe getting messed up/going flat, wrong
> pushrod.....among other things. However, if your cylinders were spaced
> out too far due to shims under the barrels I would expect that to
> affect all four valves on that side of the engine, not just one....
>
> I'd pop the valve cover off and remove the rocker shaft and have a
> close look at the valves and the ends of the adjuster screws....
>
> Chris

"Jim Ed" > wrote in message
...
>
> I'd rather drive it until it drops than have to diassemble and
> reassemble. It runs smooth and with plenty of power.
>
>
>
Jim, If you feel that popping off a valve cover and a set of rockers is
disassembling, you need to go ahead and sell the car now... really...

Sorry I must have woke up on the wrong side of the ... .

I appreciate all of your help.

I will rest up and try it again.


> *Jim, If you feel that popping off a valve cover and a set of rockers is
> disassembling, you need to go ahead and sell the car now... really...

It was the adjusting screws.

I think I will get some swivel feet adjusters from aircooled.net.



On Sep 1, 9:33*am, " > wrote:
> > *After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
> > threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
> > screw lock nuts look OK.
>
> It could be the adjusting screw is damaged/worn,

On Aug 31, 7:10*am, Jim Ed > wrote:
> *After I adjusted the no 3 exhaust valve, only about ½ the lock nut
> threads were holding the adjusting screw. Most of the other adjustment
> screw lock nuts look OK.

Simply adding lash caps or switching to swivelfoot adjusters will
restore your adjustment range, but odds are the geometry won't be very
good.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I had been using swivel feet ball adjusters until about a year ago.
They got bent due to all the pounding from over 10 years use and were
getting hard to adjust them. They were hard to turn because they were
bent.
I had removed that pair of rocker shafts with the swivel feet and
replaced them with a pair of stock 1.1:1 rockers/shafts with stock
adjusting screws in November 2009.

Yesterday I was looking at the old set of rockers/shafts with the old
swivel feet.
I removed one of the bent swivel feet. It measured about 0.25 inch
longer than a stock adjusting screw.
So, I am going to keep the 1.1:1 rockers and order another set of the
ball type swivel feet.

I think that will solve my problem with not having enough threads on
the lock nut to tighten it on the adjustment screw.
I would not have had that problem if I had not used .060 spacers under
the cylinders but, that is supposed to help the engine run cooler.

> So, I am going to keep the 1.1:1 rockers and order another set of the
> ball type swivel feet.

I also plan to replace the swivel feet about every three years.