Save on GAS. Stop paying so much! Read this..

With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you can't
pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down and
dirty of how this works:
1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will see 7%
to 14% increases in your gas milage. <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves quite
a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your engine is
conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can start
using the cheap gas. <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special Tips and
Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this product so
much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you will
save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the product,
remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money saver as
well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the rising
of oil prices!
4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic product!
Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.

<http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
<http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these helpful
tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate quickly.
Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block. Get
into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have to
accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who leaves the
stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops or
slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more than
you brake.
See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the same fuel
use as sitting in Park.
Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend your
brake-pad life.

2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30 seconds
for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically costs
more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the bank
and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside.
BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the transmission
in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage at
idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual transmission,
don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This will
save fuel and extend your clutch life.

3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on your
cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable acceleration
times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting excessive
fuel.

4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission, shift
early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear for
highway cruising.



5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance
starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel consumption.
Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy. In
other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.

6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider
and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice could
have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases like
"monster truck" tires/wheels.


7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow is a
huge factor.
For example, see the picture to the right. Those
vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities. If
this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the other
extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph), then
your fuel economy is going to be superb: those rushing vehicles create a
jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10 to
30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a larger
vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong wind
blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no break
in wind resistance.

8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your
great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or twice a
month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your route,
and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice? Arrange
with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more free
time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to 15%.
It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total dollar
potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold
weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when fluid is
cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a full-synthetic
100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
transmissions can feel like you're shifting in molasses. Combining two or
three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but will get
you better fuel economy on the way.

9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to use
the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than using
the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.

10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel economy,
but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the morning
when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your
best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top off"
your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's vapor-recovery system,
giving them back some of what you're paying for.

11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have poor
spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those deposits
are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality control
capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has dropped
steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your vehicle
is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may be
fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because this new
class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control standard.
Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
probably need an additive. BEWA there are a lot of mousey fuel additive
products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales profits
but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean your
injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump.
<http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>


12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the trunk
(and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that weekend
project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in your
trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.

13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk, telecommute
for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.

14. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is hard
on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic flow is
running smoothly at the speed limit.

15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you
lose to evaporation.

16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler, consider
renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself. If
you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your total
lease miles.

17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years, first
in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm PDA.
One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving habits.
Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving style, but
you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few fill-ups for
better accuracy).


Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel
economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts. In
fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about these
missing areas.
These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
- decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
differential, wheel bearings);
- make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between the
air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.

These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get more
horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge 2500
pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised that
with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even running
large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
"Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No surprise
to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's efficiency
with nearly every power upgrade.

18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine
light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen Sensors are
a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall, poor
engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy by
10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.

19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than "normal".
Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase safety,
and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4
percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs money
in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define the
"proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and that's
what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even the
government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM (Original
Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom correct.
OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks are
designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground when
inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more than
the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals or on
door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the shoulder
before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
under-inflated.

Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks, springs
and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure across
the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel economy,
best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and cornering
characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a reference
to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't put
more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out? First
of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for $8-20,
typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a mechanical-type
gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are capable
of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air pressure
gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10 psi
higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
under-inflated by at least that amount.
Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to about
38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If yours
isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use the
same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear. The
ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use it to
check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire (near
the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more quickly
in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most tires
like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to compensate
and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.

Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are riding
on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire life by
an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and current air
pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust your
tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure temporarily when you're
carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000 miles.
For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent article
<http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_brochure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and wheel
bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants - is
drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief primer on
synthetic lubricants.

The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has increased
dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics are
better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.

But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:

First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area in
the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most differentials
and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because the
fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid overheated
in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent problems,
and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10% better
car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just synthetic
engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over $600/yr
in fuel

21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
- Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot of
air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
- Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in the
summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the air-conditioning.
- Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell: they can
give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to travel,
or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock part?
Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle aerodynamics, bed
length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the truck
bed.
- Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground effects"
styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The downside
is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
- Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will also
add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your non-towing
fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle when
you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by helping to
"kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
- Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel economy.
A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra
stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
- Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of money.
Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.

22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages of
increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air
enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy - up
to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's recommended
interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the "dust
cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
economy.

Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air filter with
nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released in
2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage of
applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure drop
nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear
particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .

23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust
system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure" losses
which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased
noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be loud,
you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want. Borla
<http://www.borla.com> is my personal high-quality favorite, because they
tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve flow
(reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available option,
take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.

Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone wants
to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for your best
interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of sticker
price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not begin to
pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting "hot" in
the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is initial
cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another is
high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles use to
store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41 mpg as
a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and Driver
magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and you're
faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you only keep
it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better deal.

I have a much simpler idea to use less gas - telecommute.

If a company lets 10% of it workers telecommute full time, they will usually
save about double and even triple of what they save by reduced business air
travel, teleconferencing business meetings, and so on.

And you add to less pollution.


"Steve" > wrote in message
...
> With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you
> can't
> pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down
> and
> dirty of how this works:
> 1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will see 7%
> to 14% increases in your gas milage.
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
> 2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves
> quite
> a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your engine
> is
> conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can start
> using the cheap gas. <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
> 3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special Tips
> and
> Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this product so
> much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you will
> save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the product,
> remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money saver
> as
> well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
> PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
> finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the
> rising
> of oil prices!
> 4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic product!
> Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.
>
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
> As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these
> helpful
> tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
> 1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate quickly.
> Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block. Get
> into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have to
> accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who leaves
> the
> stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops or
> slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more
> than
> you brake.
> See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
> immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
> braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the same
> fuel
> use as sitting in Park.
> Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend your
> brake-pad life.
>
> 2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30
> seconds
> for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically costs
> more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the bank
> and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside.
> BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the
> transmission
> in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage at
> idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual
> transmission,
> don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This will
> save fuel and extend your clutch life.
>
> 3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
> secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on your
> cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable
> acceleration
> times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting excessive
> fuel.
>
> 4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
> Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission, shift
> early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear for
> highway cruising.
>
>
>
> 5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance
> starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel consumption.
> Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy.
> In
> other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.
>
> 6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider
> and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice
> could
> have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases
> like
> "monster truck" tires/wheels.
>
>
> 7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow is
> a
> huge factor.
> For example, see the picture to the right. Those
> vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities.
> If
> this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the
> other
> extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph), then
> your fuel economy is going to be superb: those rushing vehicles create a
> jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10 to
> 30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a larger
> vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
> adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong wind
> blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no
> break
> in wind resistance.
>
> 8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your
> great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or twice
> a
> month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your route,
> and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice?
> Arrange
> with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
> Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more free
> time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to
> 15%.
> It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total dollar
> potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
> How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
> warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
> efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold
> weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
> Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when fluid is
> cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a
> full-synthetic
> 100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
> transmissions can feel like you're shifting in molasses. Combining two or
> three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but will
> get
> you better fuel economy on the way.
>
> 9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to use
> the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
> different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than
> using
> the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.
>
> 10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel
> economy,
> but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
> afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
> typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the morning
> when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your
> best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top off"
> your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's vapor-recovery system,
> giving them back some of what you're paying for.
>
> 11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have
> poor
> spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those deposits
> are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
> gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality control
> capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has
> dropped
> steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
> Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
> contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your
> vehicle
> is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may be
> fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
> effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
> premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because this
> new
> class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control standard.
> Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
> If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
> probably need an additive. BEWA there are a lot of mousey fuel
> additive
> products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales
> profits
> but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean your
> injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump.
> <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
>
> 12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the trunk
> (and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that weekend
> project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in your
> trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.
>
> 13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk,
> telecommute
> for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.
>
> 14. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is hard
> on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic flow
> is
> running smoothly at the speed limit.
>
> 15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you
> lose to evaporation.
>
> 16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler, consider
> renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
> week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself.
> If
> you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your total
> lease miles.
>
> 17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years, first
> in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm PDA.
> One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving
> habits.
> Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving style,
> but
> you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
> maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
> economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few fill-ups
> for
> better accuracy).
>
>
> Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
> These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel
> economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts. In
> fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about
> these
> missing areas.
> These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
> - decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
> differential, wheel bearings);
> - make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between the
> air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.
>
> These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get more
> horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge 2500
> pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised that
> with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even running
> large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
> "Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No
> surprise
> to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's
> efficiency
> with nearly every power upgrade.
>
> 18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine
> light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen Sensors
> are
> a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall, poor
> engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy by
> 10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.
>
> 19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than "normal".
> Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase
> safety,
> and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4
> percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
> Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs money
> in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define the
> "proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and that's
> what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even the
> government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM
> (Original
> Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom
> correct.
> OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks are
> designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground
> when
> inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more than
> the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals or
> on
> door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the shoulder
> before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
> under-inflated.
>
> Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
> under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks, springs
> and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure
> across
> the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel economy,
> best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and cornering
> characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a
> reference
> to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't put
> more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
> So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out? First
> of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for $8-20,
> typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a
> mechanical-type
> gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are capable
> of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
> calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air pressure
> gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10 psi
> higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
> under-inflated by at least that amount.
> Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to
> about
> 38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If
> yours
> isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use the
> same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear. The
> ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use it to
> check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire
> (near
> the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
> edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more
> quickly
> in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most tires
> like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
> stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to
> compensate
> and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.
>
> Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are
> riding
> on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire life
> by
> an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
> bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
> increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and current
> air
> pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust your
> tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure temporarily when you're
> carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000 miles.
> For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent
> article
> <http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_brochure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
> 20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
> drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and
> wheel
> bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants - is
> drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
> However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief primer on
> synthetic lubricants.
>
> The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has increased
> dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics are
> better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.
>
> But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:
>
> First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area in
> the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most differentials
> and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because the
> fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid
> overheated
> in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent problems,
> and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10%
> better
> car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
> Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just synthetic
> engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
> picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over
> $600/yr
> in fuel
>
> 21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
> - Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot of
> air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
> cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
> - Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in the
> summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the
> air-conditioning.
> - Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell: they
> can
> give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to travel,
> or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock
> part?
> Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle aerodynamics,
> bed
> length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the truck
> bed.
> - Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
> include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground effects"
> styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The
> downside
> is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
> - Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will
> also
> add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your non-towing
> fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle when
> you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by helping
> to
> "kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
> - Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel
> economy.
> A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra
> stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
> - Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of
> money.
> Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
>
> 22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages
> of
> increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air
> enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy -
> up
> to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
> Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's recommended
> interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the
> "dust
> cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
> economy.
>
> Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air filter
> with
> nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released in
> 2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage of
> applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure drop
> nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear
> particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
> tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .
>
> 23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust
> system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
> mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure"
> losses
> which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased
> noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be loud,
> you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want. Borla
> <http://www.borla.com> is my personal high-quality favorite, because they
> tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
> Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve
> flow
> (reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
> increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
> economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available
> option,
> take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.
>
> Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone
> wants
> to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for your
> best
> interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of sticker
> price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not begin
> to
> pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting "hot"
> in
> the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is initial
> cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another is
> high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles use
> to
> store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41 mpg
> as
> a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and
> Driver
> magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and
> you're
> faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you only
> keep
> it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better
> deal.

I hit send before I realized the other groups were on here.

Although, telecommuting is a good idea to spread around. Better for everyone
really, especially with $3/gallon of gas, hour long traffic jams, the
pollution levels in most cities, and so on.


"Tom in Missouri" > wrote in message
...
>I have a much simpler idea to use less gas - telecommute.
>
> If a company lets 10% of it workers telecommute full time, they will
> usually save about double and even triple of what they save by reduced
> business air travel, teleconferencing business meetings, and so on.
>
> And you add to less pollution.
>

"Tom in Missouri" > wrote in message
...
>I have a much simpler idea to use less gas - telecommute.
>
> If a company lets 10% of it workers telecommute full time, they will
> usually save about double and even triple of what they save by
> reduced business air travel, teleconferencing business meetings, and
> so on.
>
> And you add to less pollution.
>
I, for one, am glad Steve has woke up to the basics of driving, only
the synthetic lubricants have change over 57 years of driving.

--
Dad
05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51
72 Shark Black/Black/4spd
64 Red/red/white top/4spd

Steve wrote:

>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you can't
>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down and
>dirty of how this works:
>
>
Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the air cleaner?
LOLOLOLOLOL

>1st - By using this product, engine efficiency is gained. You will see 7%
>to 14% increases in your gas milage. <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>2nd - No longer use the high grade of Gasoline. This in itself saves quite
>a bit of money since 87 octane is ALOT cheaper than 92. Once your engine is
>conditioned to the formula (Which only takes a little while) You can start
>using the cheap gas. <http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>3rd - Even if you do not buy my product, I have prepared a special Tips and
>Secrets to saving on MPG without my product! I believe in this product so
>much that if you use it, and follow the 23 tips I outline below, you will
>save a fortune over the coming year! Even if you do not use the product,
>remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money saver as
>well! I am looking out for the rest of us because, "I TOO AM TIRED OF
>PAYING ALMOST 4 DOLLARS A GALLON!" It is ridiculous, and until we can
>finally get off of gasoline, there looks to be no end in site to the rising
>of oil prices!
>4th - Earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic product!
>Sign up on my webpage to become a reseller.
>
><http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
><http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>As Promised, even if you don't buy my product at least follow these helpful
>tips and secrets. IT WILL HELP US ALL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN!
>1. Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don't accelerate quickly.
>Look far down the road ahead, even if "far" means half a city block. Get
>into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you don't have to
>accelerate to get in front of traffic. Remember that the guy who leaves the
>stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. Anticipate stops or
>slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more than
>you brake.
>See a long train at the RR crossing ahead? Get your foot off the gas
>immediately. You can idle forward in Drive for a long way (without
>braking), for ~30% less fuel than sitting in Drive, and nearly the same fuel
>use as sitting in Park.
>Remember: any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend your
>brake-pad life.
>
>2. Minimize idling, and idle smart: Engines only need 10 to 30 seconds
>for warm-up, and idling your engine for more than a minute typically costs
>more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid the drive-thru lines at the bank
>and the fast-food shop: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside.
>BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the transmission
>in Neutral or Park while you're waiting: this will cut your fuel usage at
>idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. If you have a manual transmission,
>don't use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. This will
>save fuel and extend your clutch life.
>
>3. Use Cruise Control. It's proven to save fuel. But here's a
>secret... it's not just for cruising. Using the "Resume" button on your
>cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable acceleration
>times that don't irritate drivers behind you, without wasting excessive
>fuel.
>
>4. Overdrive and gear selection. If you have an automatic with
>Overdrive, use the Overdrive. If you have a manual transmission, shift
>early to keep engine rpm's lower and be sure to use the highest gear for
>highway cruising.
>
>
>
>5. Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance
>starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel consumption.
>Estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy. In
>other words, when you speed, you're paying more at the gas pump.
>
>6. Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider
>and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice could
>have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases like
>"monster truck" tires/wheels.
>
>
>7. Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow is a
>huge factor.
>For example, see the picture to the right. Those
>vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities. If
>this highway traffic is stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. On the other
>extreme, if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 - 80 mph), then
>your fuel economy is going to be superb: those rushing vehicles create a
>jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10 to
>30% improvements are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a larger
>vehicle and use your cruise control (just bump speed up/down 1 mph to
>adjust). Also, keep in mind the wind direction: if there's a strong wind
>blowing in from the right, and you drive in the right lane, you get no break
>in wind resistance.
>
>8. Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your
>great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week or twice a
>month; just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your route,
>and do it all on the same day. Dropping off the kids at practice? Arrange
>with other parents to carpool or to pick them up for you.
>Such planning may seem like work at first, but it will give you more free
>time, help you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to 15%.
> It can also cut your average weekly mileage by 20% or more. Total dollar
>potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.
>How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while
>warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating at full
>efficiency. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold
>weather, when it can take 10 miles for the transmission to warm up.
>Automatic transmissions in particular can be huge power hogs when fluid is
>cold (hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a full-synthetic
>100,000-mile transmission fluid - see more on this below), and manual
>transmissions can feel like you're shifting in molasses. Combining two or
>three trips into one will not only reduce the miles you drive, but will get
>you better fuel economy on the way.
>
>9. Use air conditioning wisely. In city driving, it's cheaper to use
>the vents and/or roll the windows down. But at highway speeds, it's a
>different story: rolling the windows down will cost you more fuel than using
>the air conditioner. These factors can affect fuel economy by ~ 1-5%.
>
>10. Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn't actually improving your fuel economy,
>but there are several things to save money on: Filling up on Tuesday
>afternoon or Wednesday morning will normally save you money: those are
>typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the morning
>when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your
>best time to fill up is - on average - Wednesday morning. Don't "top off"
>your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station's vapor-recovery system,
>giving them back some of what you're paying for.
>
>11. Use a good fuel additive. Injectors with excessive deposits have poor
>spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those deposits
>are caused by poor quality fuel. Since '95 the EPA has required all
>gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But as fuel quality control
>capabilities have improved over the years, average fuel quality has dropped
>steadily. Now about half of all fuel on the market is Lowest Additive
>Concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and
>contributes to excessive deposits. What can you do? First, if your vehicle
>is designed for premium gas, and you use premium, your injectors may be
>fine: many premium fuels include much higher additive levels that are
>effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don't use
>premium? Use "Top Tier" detergent gas if you can find it, because this new
>class of fuel meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control standard.
>Shell states that all their gas grades meet the Top Tier standard.
>If you don't need to pay for premium and Top Tier isn't available, you
>probably need an additive. BEWA there are a lot of mousey fuel additive
>products in ads and on store shelves that generate ridiculous sales profits
>but don't do much for your vehicle. Find a good one that will clean your
>injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump.
><http://www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/>
>
>
>12. Lose some weight! Reduce your vehicle's weight: clean out the trunk
>(and maybe the back seat). Summer snow-chains and tools from that weekend
>project two months ago is costing you fuel! For every 200 pounds in your
>trunk, it costs you roughly 1 mpg.
>
>13. Don't drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk, telecommute
>for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.
>
>14. Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is hard
>on fuel economy. Try to arrange traveling to/from work when traffic flow is
>running smoothly at the speed limit.
>
>15. Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you
>lose to evaporation.
>
>16. Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler, consider
>renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted
>week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself. If
>you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your total
>lease miles.
>
>17. Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. I've done this for years, first
>in vehicle expense record books, and later with a program in my Palm PDA.
>One advantage is that you can monitor your fuel economy and driving habits.
>Not only can you learn the cost benefits of changing your driving style, but
>you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to
>maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel
>economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over a few fill-ups for
>better accuracy).
>
>
>Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.
>These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel
>economy, and that's unfortunate because they can have huge impacts. In
>fact, that's why I'm providing this list - so that you can learn about these
>missing areas.
>These all fall into two general ways to improve fuel economy:
>- decrease friction in the vehicle's drivetrain (engine, transmission,
>differential, wheel bearings);
>- make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere between the
>air intake and the exhaust tailpipe.
>
>These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts improve to get more
>horsepower. I recently spoke with a Lexus mechanic who owns a Dodge 2500
>pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was quite surprised that
>with his many thousands of dollars of horsepower upgrades, even running
>large tires and higher ground-clearance, he was getting about 23 mpg.
>"Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved." No surprise
>to me: except for the tires, he was also increasing his engine's efficiency
>with nearly every power upgrade.
>
>18. Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine
>light on, you're typically wasting fuel: for example, bad Oxygen Sensors are
>a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall, poor
>engine tuning and lack of maintenance will often decrease fuel economy by
>10-20%, and it can be even worse in some cases.
>
>19. Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than "normal".
>Besides improving fuel economy, this will improve handling, increase safety,
>and increase tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4
>percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.
>Over 90% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs money
>in both fuel and in shortened tire life. "Experts" generally define the
>"proper" pressure as the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, and that's
>what most service shops try to follow. Who can blame them when even the
>government says to follow inflation pressures on the vehicle's OEM (Original
>Equipment Manufacturer) door sticker? Unfortunately, that's seldom correct.
> OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks are
>designed by the tire manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground when
>inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: far more than
>the recommended 28 to 33 psi that you'll find in many owner's manuals or on
>door-jamb labels. If your tires normally wear the tread off the shoulder
>before the center of the tire, you can be certain that your tires are
>under-inflated.
>
>Vehicle manufacturers like to get the cushy ride quality by using
>under-inflated tires, rather than by using more expensive shocks, springs
>and suspension designs. What YOU need is even road-contact pressure across
>the tread, because that gives you maximum tire life, better fuel economy,
>best performance in bad weather, and best overall handling and cornering
>characteristics. If you look closely on many tires, you'll see a reference
>to 35 psi and a maximum pressure of 44 psi. So as long as you don't put
>more than 44 psi in your tires, you're fine.
>So how much air pressure should you use? How do you figure it out? First
>of all, buy a digital pressure gauge - there are a lot of them for $8-20,
>typically accurate to a half psi or less. Or, you can use a mechanical-type
>gauge if it has a LARGE round dial. These bourdon-tube gauges are capable
>of good accuracy, but check the packaging to see how accurately it's
>calibrated. Whatever you do, DON'T use a straight "stick" air pressure
>gauge. Inconsistent and inaccurate, stick gauges often read 2 to 10 psi
>higher than actual pressure, meaning your tires will always be
>under-inflated by at least that amount.
>Next, inflate your front tires to about 40 psi and your rear tires to about
>38 psi. (Most vehicles are heavier in the front than in the rear. If yours
>isn't, maybe from stuff you haul in the truck-bed or trunk, then use the
>same pressure in all four tires.) Then watch how your tires wear. The
>ultimate is to buy a simple tire tread depth-gauge (max $6), and use it to
>check tread depth in the center, and near each "shoulder" of the tire (near
>the inside and outside edges). If your tires wear more quickly on the
>edges, increase your air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. If they wear more quickly
>in the center, then decrease the air pressure by 1 or 2 psi. Most tires
>like to be in the 38-40 psi range, but if you put a wider tire on a
>stock-width rim, you'll normally have to drop the air pressure to compensate
>and get an even pressure "pad" across the tread.
>
>Results? By our conservative estimates, most passenger vehicles are riding
>on tires that are 8 psi low. (That 20% difference can decrease tire life by
>an estimated 30% per the Technical Maintenance Council.) So overall,
>bumping your tire pressure up to the optimum will likely give you a 3%
>increase in fuel economy, depending on your vehicle, tires, and current air
>pressure. You'll also get longer tire life. Be sure to check/adjust your
>tire pressure monthly, increase tire pressure temporarily when you're
>carrying loads, and rotate your tires twice a year or every 10,000 miles.
>For more complete details on proper tire care, visit this excellent article
><http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_safety/tire_safety_brochure/tire_care_and_safety.cfm>.
>20. Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your
>drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and wheel
>bearing grease. This advice - to use the best synthetic lubricants - is
>drastically neglected, yet it's an EASY area to save a lot of money.
>However, it's not a simple area to understand, so here's a brief primer on
>synthetic lubricants.
>
>The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has increased
>dramatically, which is very good news for consumers because synthetics are
>better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN.
>
>But consumers don't realize THREE KEY THINGS:
>
>First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area in
>the vehicle, including ball-joint grease. For example, most differentials
>and transmissions fail because their fluid has failed, either because the
>fluid hasn't been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid overheated
>in towing. Synthetic transmission fluid helps hugely to prevent problems,
>and naturally saves fuel at the same time. My '94 Taurus SHO got 10% better
>car fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my '02
>Sierra 2500HD Duramax got 8% better truck fuel economy with just synthetic
>engine and differential fluids, and a friend's '99 Olds Silhouette van
>picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil - saving over $600/yr
>in fuel
>
>21. Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:
>- Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: you'll feel a lot of
>air turbulence around the window, and the air-conditioning is probably
>cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty in additional wind-drag.
>- Turn off the air and roll down the windows at speeds under 40 mph in the
>summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the air-conditioning.
>- Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hardshell: they can
>give you a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to travel,
>or buying an "air gate" net or louvered tailgate to replace the stock part?
>Those are not as reliable - results depend on the vehicle aerodynamics, bed
>length, and the size and shape of what you do (or don't) have in the truck
>bed.
>- Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: "Off-road" packages which
>include protective underbody "skid plate" features, or "ground effects"
>styling packages can help enough to add 1-5% in fuel economy. The downside
>is that these can make the vehicle more difficult to work on.
>- Adding an air deflector to the roof of your vehicle when towing will also
>add 1 to 3 mpg, but keep in mind that it will also reduce your non-towing
>fuel economy by about the same amount if it's still on the vehicle when
>you're NOT towing. (These air deflectors improve fuel economy by helping to
>"kick" the air up over the trailer, reducing the trailer's wind-drag.)
>- Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel economy.
>A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra
>stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.
>- Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but they do cost you a bit of money.
>Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.
>
>22. Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages of
>increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air
>enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy - up
>to 10% in the worst cases. However, there's a conflicting problem.
>Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM's recommended
>interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the "dust
>cake" buildup to achieve effective filtration, which can reduce fuel
>economy.
>
>Easy: Here's an easy "no-brainer" improvement: Replace your air filter with
>nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Released in
>2005 with worldwide patents, reasonably priced, with a huge percentage of
>applications covered and still growing in 2007.) You get pressure drop
>nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear
>particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual
>tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems. .
>
>23. Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust
>system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive
>mufflers. My point isn't to get louder, but to reduce "backpressure" losses
>which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased
>noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be loud,
>you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don't want. Borla
><http://www.borla.com> is my personal high-quality favorite, because they
>tastefully design for great improvement without being overly loud.
>Keep in mind that on turbo-charged engines, anything you do to improve flow
>(reduce backpressure) through the exhaust system will pay rewards in
>increased turbo pressure, faster spool-up, and of course, better fuel
>economy. So if a larger down-pipe out of the turbo is an available option,
>take it: that's a useful upgrade that is sometimes overlooked.
>
>Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. But be cautious. Everyone wants
>to make money from your vehicle change, so be sure to look out for your best
>interests. There are several ways to do this. First, beware of sticker
>price. Spending a lot more money to get more fuel economy may not begin to
>pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Hint: hybrids are getting "hot" in
>the market, but they are often not worth the money. One reason is initial
>cost penalty, another is unrealistic fuel-economy claims, and another is
>high replacement costs for the big battery packs that these vehicles use to
>store and transfer energy. If that 56 mpg turns out to really be 41 mpg as
>a recent long-term test did in the '05 Toyota Prius vehicle (Car and Driver
>magazine), and you spent $6k more than an equivalent non-hybrid, and you're
>faced with a $2,300 battery replacement bill after 3 years and you only keep
>it for 4 or 5 years... well, the 36 mpg standard vehicle was a better deal.
>
>


--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

"Ric Seyler" > wrote in message
...
> Steve wrote:
>
>>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is
>>something you can't
>>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money.
>>A quick down and
>>dirty of how this works:
>>
> Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the
> air cleaner? LOLOLOLOLOL
>
---snip the rest---

this all sounds like a crock.
I know the cross-posting sure is !

--
'Key
=====

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:53:11 -0600, Ric Seyler >
wrote:

>Steve wrote:
>
>>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you can't
>>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down and
>>dirty of how this works:
>>
>>
>Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the air cleaner?
>LOLOLOLOLOL
>

I used to think that magnets were just a joke, but then I tried it.

I broke apart about a zillion dead hard drives. Got all the magnets
out of them (there were an average of two magnets in each drive, so I
had two zillion of 'em)

Next I glued them to the fuel lines, which took about 20 or so
magnets. What I did next was nothing short of brilliant. I glued the
remaining magnets to the front bumper, grill, and everwhere else I
could on the front. Even around the windshield.

You guessed it, I got on the highway and soon found that i didn't even
have to press the accelerator. I'd only about two or three gallons of
gas left in the tank anyway, and eventually that ran out, just with
the engine idling. The engine shut down, and I'm still doing about 70+
MPH! Incredible...

Man this is great. I started in New York, and I'm just getting through
Denver, all on that three gallons of gas (OK the gas ran out in
Kansas, but I"m still going.)

Now, I'm writing this on my Blackberry while on the road. Steering and
driving doesn't seem that hard without gas, but I've got one problem.










How do I get unstuck from the back of this semi?

PeterD wrote:

>On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:53:11 -0600, Ric Seyler >
>wrote:
>
>
>
>>Steve wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you can't
>>>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down and
>>>dirty of how this works:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the air cleaner?
>>LOLOLOLOLOL
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
HAHAHAHA!! I'm glad I finished your post, I was Fixin to FlAmE Ya! :-)

>I used to think that magnets were just a joke, but then I tried it.
>
>I broke apart about a zillion dead hard drives. Got all the magnets
>out of them (there were an average of two magnets in each drive, so I
>had two zillion of 'em)
>
>Next I glued them to the fuel lines, which took about 20 or so
>magnets. What I did next was nothing short of brilliant. I glued the
>remaining magnets to the front bumper, grill, and everwhere else I
>could on the front. Even around the windshield.
>
>You guessed it, I got on the highway and soon found that i didn't even
>have to press the accelerator. I'd only about two or three gallons of
>gas left in the tank anyway, and eventually that ran out, just with
>the engine idling. The engine shut down, and I'm still doing about 70+
>MPH! Incredible...
>
>Man this is great. I started in New York, and I'm just getting through
>Denver, all on that three gallons of gas (OK the gas ran out in
>Kansas, but I"m still going.)
>
>Now, I'm writing this on my Blackberry while on the road. Steering and
>driving doesn't seem that hard without gas, but I've got one problem.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>How do I get unstuck from the back of this semi?
>
>
>


--
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove -SPAM- from email address
--------------------------------------
"Homer no function beer well without."
- H.J. Simpson

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 14:03:11 -0400, PeterD > puked:

>On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:53:11 -0600, Ric Seyler >
>wrote:
>
>>Steve wrote:
>>
>>>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you can't
>>>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down and
>>>dirty of how this works:
>>>
>>>
>>Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the air cleaner?
>>LOLOLOLOLOL
>>
>
>I used to think that magnets were just a joke, but then I tried it.
>
>I broke apart about a zillion dead hard drives. Got all the magnets
>out of them (there were an average of two magnets in each drive, so I
>had two zillion of 'em)
>
>Next I glued them to the fuel lines, which took about 20 or so
>magnets. What I did next was nothing short of brilliant. I glued the
>remaining magnets to the front bumper, grill, and everwhere else I
>could on the front. Even around the windshield.
>
>You guessed it, I got on the highway and soon found that i didn't even
>have to press the accelerator. I'd only about two or three gallons of
>gas left in the tank anyway, and eventually that ran out, just with
>the engine idling. The engine shut down, and I'm still doing about 70+
>MPH! Incredible...
>
>Man this is great. I started in New York, and I'm just getting through
>Denver, all on that three gallons of gas (OK the gas ran out in
>Kansas, but I"m still going.)
>
>Now, I'm writing this on my Blackberry while on the road. Steering and
>driving doesn't seem that hard without gas, but I've got one problem.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>How do I get unstuck from the back of this semi?

LOL

--
lab~rat >:-)
Stupid humans...

There are a lot of scams and a lot of snake oil out there, but one thing I
did try years ago did actually work. Unfortunately, the parts I used were
not designed for such use or in the environment I was using them, and so
after a few days, they failed. But during that time, gas on the test car
(my daily commuter which was going about 80 miles per day) went from 22-23
to 25. I had only gotten 25 a couple of times before - long flat non-stop
highway trips at 55-60 mph. This was tested in mostly city driving.

However, since it involved helping things atomize quicker/better, and the
EFI/TBI/TPI all does that just as well today, there isn't any point in me
trying to build one again.

So occasionally, you do find some of these that do work. You just want to
not get too involved in expense looking for them, or you could buy more gas
than you will ever save.


"Ric Seyler" > wrote in message
...
> Steve wrote:
>
>>With the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel, this is something you
>>can't
>>pass up! This is not a SCAM and can save you real money. A quick down
>>and
>>dirty of how this works:
>>
> Magnets on the fuel line or the "Turbonator" behind the air cleaner?
> LOLOLOLOLOL
>