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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
I finally managed to remove the drum from my Jeep! The spindle is
keyed and I can see a key further down the shaft. Do I need to remove the key and spin the stud assembly off the shaft before I attempt to remove the shaft? I am having trouble identifying the type of rear axle and hub assembly I have. The Hayes manual I have says to remove the hub & spindle with a puller. It is pressing into the center of the spindle when I tighten the puller and shearing the metal so I have stopped. If I do need to remove the key, I am not sure how to get it out...it is fully recessed into the spindle and stud assembly. |
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#2
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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
Hi DK,
It sounds like you are still working on the rear axle. But you say spindle like we call the steering axle like on the front, of your Jeep. Which is it? It is possible to remove the axle without first removing the hub, but it sounds like you're describing a sheared key, making that an unnecessary step. Exploded view: http://www.billhughes.com/temp/jeepRearAxle.jpg Rent a puller from a Real shop that's made for it, like: http://www.billhughes.com/temp/puller.jpg Find it in a Mom & Pop shop that has been there for fifty years God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm "DK" > wrote in message ... > I finally managed to remove the drum from my Jeep! The spindle is > keyed and I can see a key further down the shaft. Do I need to remove > the key and spin the stud assembly off the shaft before I attempt to > remove the shaft? > > I am having trouble identifying the type of rear axle and hub assembly > I have. The Hayes manual I have says to remove the hub & spindle with > a puller. It is pressing into the center of the spindle when I tighten > the puller and shearing the metal so I have stopped. > > If I do need to remove the key, I am not sure how to get it out...it > is fully recessed into the spindle and stud assembly. |
#3
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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
Bob Noble wrote:
> rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys > Maybe it's that you don't know how to use a puller properly? > > I think the key stays in until it the hub is pulled off. > To use the puller tighten it just past snug. > Now, whack the end of it hard with a big hammer. Resnug just past snug and > hit again as hard as you can. If it doesn't come loose, get a bigger > hammer. Pullers are not meant to just tighten with a wrench, or things > will get messed up. They must be whacked with a big hammer. You forgot to mention the energetic way some of those hubs come off when they DO let go ;-) -- Will Honea |
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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
On Mon, 28 Sep 2009 01:55:21 -0600, Will Honea >
wrote: >Bob Noble wrote: > >> rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys >> Maybe it's that you don't know how to use a puller properly? >> >> I think the key stays in until it the hub is pulled off. >> To use the puller tighten it just past snug. >> Now, whack the end of it hard with a big hammer. Resnug just past snug and >> hit again as hard as you can. If it doesn't come loose, get a bigger >> hammer. Pullers are not meant to just tighten with a wrench, or things >> will get messed up. They must be whacked with a big hammer. > >You forgot to mention the energetic way some of those hubs come off when >they DO let go ;-) Right, don't stand in the way! Wear eye protection too, I've had them kick up a lot of dirt flying around. |
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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
Heh.
http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/ heavy duty https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...ty-Clam-Shells Can't tell (not familiar with that axle and the photo isn't clear enough) but is there a snap ring hiding in there? -- DougW |
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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
DK wrote:
> Thanks for the info! I downloaded this .pdf. > > My hub is the same as on Page 260 of this manual. I do not see any > snap ring. I guess it is just REALLY ON THERE. It may have been on > there for more than 50 years after all. Hopefully, this is not your problem but is the keyway in the hub and on the axle lined up? I once saw one where the key had sheared. The axle spun in the hub then friction welded the hub onto the axle. No more slipping - but that sucker was on for the duration - even a 50-ton shop press couldn't budge it. Some simple things to help out: with the puller good and tight, hit the bolt in the center of the puller (the one resting on the axle) a couple of sharp blows. The heavier the hammer you use the better - the momentum keeps it from just bouncing. Tapping around the rim of the hub helps - you just want to make the hub ring. Packing the exposed axle in dry ice for an hour or so will also help - be careful handling the dry ice or the shaft at that temperature. Wear heavy gloves. If you resort to the torch on the hub consider replacing it once you get it off since any really high temps can do strange things to casting. -- Will Honea |
#7
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'53 M38A1 Jeep Rear Hub Removal
On Sep 29, 12:47*am, Will Honea > wrote:
> DK wrote: > > Thanks for the info! I downloaded this .pdf. > > > My hub is the same as on Page 260 of this manual. I do not see any > > snap ring. I guess it is just REALLY ON THERE. It may have been on > > there for more than 50 years after all. > > Hopefully, this is not your problem but is the keyway in the hub and on the > axle lined up? *I once saw one where the key had sheared. *The axle spun in > the hub then friction welded the hub onto the axle. *No more slipping - but > that sucker was on for the duration - even a 50-ton shop press couldn't > budge it. * > > Some simple things to help out: with the puller good and tight, hit the bolt > in the center of the puller (the one resting on the axle) a couple of sharp > blows. *The heavier the hammer you use the better - the momentum keeps it > from just bouncing. *Tapping around the rim of the hub helps - you just > want to make the hub ring. Packing the exposed axle in dry ice for an hour > or so will also help - be careful handling the dry ice or the shaft at that > temperature. *Wear heavy gloves. If you resort to the torch on the hub > consider replacing it once you get it off since any really high temps can > do strange things to casting. > > -- > Will Honea I found a tire shop in town that will let me borrow the proper puller. I hope to pick it up some time next week and give it a shot. I'll update once I have results. |
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