2001 Jeep Cherokee Front Brake Rotors

Hi group,

Tonight I was foiled by either a pair of very stuck rotors or by some
means of holding them to the hub that was not readily apparent to me.

This is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The rotors look as if they should just pull
off the hubs once the caliper is removed. But try as I may, I could not
get them loose with a three-jaw puller, nor could I see any means of
holding them in place.

Is there something I missed, or are they just severely rusted in place?

Thanks!

--
TomO

In article >,
TomO > wrote:

> Hi group,
>
> Tonight I was foiled by either a pair of very stuck rotors or by some
> means of holding them to the hub that was not readily apparent to me.
>
> This is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The rotors look as if they should just pull
> off the hubs once the caliper is removed. But try as I may, I could not
> get them loose with a three-jaw puller, nor could I see any means of
> holding them in place.
>
> Is there something I missed, or are they just severely rusted in place?
>
> Thanks!

Severely rusted in place.
Cheap brake pads with high iron content will do that.

BFH !

aarcuda69062 wrote:
>
> In article >,
> TomO > wrote:
>
> > Hi group,
> >
> > Tonight I was foiled by either a pair of very stuck rotors or by some
> > means of holding them to the hub that was not readily apparent to me.
> >
> > This is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The rotors look as if they should just pull
> > off the hubs once the caliper is removed. But try as I may, I could not
> > get them loose with a three-jaw puller, nor could I see any means of
> > holding them in place.
> >
> > Is there something I missed, or are they just severely rusted in place?
> >
> > Thanks!
>
> Severely rusted in place.
> Cheap brake pads with high iron content will do that.

I thought it was pads made for racing applications that had high iron
content. But anyway don't you suppose the iron in the rotor and hub
plays some part in why the two rust together?

-jim

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:40:45 -0700 (PDT), twisted
> wrote:

>BFH !

Check this out if you don't have an air hammer.
These guys might not have one, or just didn't think about it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOuY2rEz4ww

Last time I used a BFH - a 15# - and whacked for half an hour before
the rotor came off, it screwed up the wheel bearing.
But I didn't have air tools.
I wished I had an air hammer, and after looking around on the
internet, sure enough an air hammer with a flat head worked against
the web between the studs will have it off real quick.
Just shakes the rust connections apart.
Easier and safer.

--Vic

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 08:10:44 -0500, aarcuda69062 wrote:

> In article >,
> TomO > wrote:
>
>> Hi group,
>>
>> Tonight I was foiled by either a pair of very stuck rotors or by some
>> means of holding them to the hub that was not readily apparent to me.
>>
>> This is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The rotors look as if they should just
>> pull off the hubs once the caliper is removed. But try as I may, I
>> could not get them loose with a three-jaw puller, nor could I see any
>> means of holding them in place.
>>
>> Is there something I missed, or are they just severely rusted in place?
>>
>> Thanks!
>
> Severely rusted in place.
> Cheap brake pads with high iron content will do that.

Thanks for that. I'll just try harder... I wasn't sure that they should
be free.

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:40:45 -0700, twisted wrote:

> BFH !

BTDT 6 Lb dum-dum while maxed in the 3-jaw wheel puller. No dice - yet.

On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 09:33:53 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

> On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:40:45 -0700 (PDT), twisted
> > wrote:
>
>>BFH !
>
> Check this out if you don't have an air hammer. These guys might not
> have one, or just didn't think about it.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOuY2rEz4ww
>
> Last time I used a BFH - a 15# - and whacked for half an hour before the
> rotor came off, it screwed up the wheel bearing. But I didn't have air
> tools.
> I wished I had an air hammer, and after looking around on the internet,
> sure enough an air hammer with a flat head worked against the web
> between the studs will have it off real quick. Just shakes the rust
> connections apart. Easier and safer.
>
> --Vic

I didn't even think of that. I do have an air hammer handy. I'll give it
a go.

In article >,
jim <"sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net> wrote:

> aarcuda69062 wrote:
> >
> > In article >,
> > TomO > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi group,
> > >
> > > Tonight I was foiled by either a pair of very stuck rotors or by some
> > > means of holding them to the hub that was not readily apparent to me.
> > >
> > > This is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The rotors look as if they should just pull
> > > off the hubs once the caliper is removed. But try as I may, I could not
> > > get them loose with a three-jaw puller, nor could I see any means of
> > > holding them in place.
> > >
> > > Is there something I missed, or are they just severely rusted in place?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> >
> > Severely rusted in place.
> > Cheap brake pads with high iron content will do that.
>
> I thought it was pads made for racing applications that had high iron
> content.

The rock bottom cheapy pads are also high iron content.

> But anyway don't you suppose the iron in the rotor and hub
> plays some part in why the two rust together?

Nope. The problem is more or less non-existent if ceramic pads are used.

> -jim

aarcuda69062 wrote:
>
> In article >,
> jim <"sjedgingN0Sp"@m@mwt,net> wrote:
>
> > aarcuda69062 wrote:
> > >
> > > In article >,
> > > TomO > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi group,
> > > >
> > > > Tonight I was foiled by either a pair of very stuck rotors or by some
> > > > means of holding them to the hub that was not readily apparent to me.
> > > >
> > > > This is a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. The rotors look as if they should just pull
> > > > off the hubs once the caliper is removed. But try as I may, I could not
> > > > get them loose with a three-jaw puller, nor could I see any means of
> > > > holding them in place.
> > > >
> > > > Is there something I missed, or are they just severely rusted in place?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Severely rusted in place.
> > > Cheap brake pads with high iron content will do that.
> >
> > I thought it was pads made for racing applications that had high iron
> > content.
>
> The rock bottom cheapy pads are also high iron content.

The spindle, hub, rotors and calipers usually have higher iron content.
Do you think the iron in the pads is the straw that breaks the camel's
back.

Metallic pads can be cheap or expensive. Is it just the cheap one's
that cause the problem?

>
> > But anyway don't you suppose the iron in the rotor and hub
> > plays some part in why the two rust together?
>


> Nope. The problem is more or less non-existent if ceramic pads are used.

And I suppose if ceramic pads are used and the rotors still stick to
the hub, (which they certainly do) that is just an indication that
somewhere out there there must be a set of higher priced pads?


How much time lapses between removal of the rotors definitely has
something to do with it. And that could be related to the type of pads
used.
Not driving thru slush puddles with high salt content also helps
a lot.
Applying a little anti-sieze or grease around the center hole will
definitely help avoid the problem on the next removal.