DOH brakes!

Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.

Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision.


Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor on
the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit,
clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout units.
The old Chevy was stamped tin.

That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
bits and springs.

So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!

Left side was about 3mm on both pads.

Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in.
Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.

Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.

--
DougW

Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between inner
and outer is a sure sign of problems.

DougW wrote:
> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.
>
> Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision.
>
>
> Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor on
> the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit,
> clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout units.
> The old Chevy was stamped tin.
>
> That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
> bits and springs.
>
> So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
> got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
> Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
> thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
> surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!
>
> Left side was about 3mm on both pads.
>
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>

RoyJ wrote:
> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between
> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems.

Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but
the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some
replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads
ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined.
Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I
did brake work.

Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter
grease or silicone, but that's all I had.

I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't
that much over the lifetime.

Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and
gaskets, or at least gaskets.

--
DougW

DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons
back in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>

I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open
up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem.

tw

The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash
register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it.

I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the
middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!)
to get the brakes to quit grabbing.

DougW wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between
>> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems.
>
> Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but
> the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some
> replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads
> ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined.
> Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I
> did brake work.
>
> Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter
> grease or silicone, but that's all I had.
>
> I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't
> that much over the lifetime.
>
> Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and
> gaskets, or at least gaskets.
>

"DougW" > wrote in message
...
> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.
>
> Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision.
>
>
> Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor
> on
> the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit,
> clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout
> units.
> The old Chevy was stamped tin.
>
> That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
> bits and springs.
>
> So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
> got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
> Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
> thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
> surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!
>
> Left side was about 3mm on both pads.
>
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back
> in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>
> --
> DougW

I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most
painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little
springs on.

"c" > wrote in message
...
> Zelix wrote:
>> "DougW" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.
>>>
>>> Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style
>>> typovision.
>>>
>>>
>>> Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor
>>> on
>>> the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring
>>> kit,
>>> clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout
>>> units.
>>> The old Chevy was stamped tin.
>>>
>>> That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
>>> bits and springs.
>>>
>>> So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
>>> got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
>>> Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
>>> thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
>>> surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!
>>>
>>> Left side was about 3mm on both pads.
>>>
>>> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back
>>> in.
>>> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it
>>> was
>>> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>>>
>>> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
>>> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
>>> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>>>
>>> --
>>> DougW
>>
>> I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most
>> painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little
>> springs on.
>
>
> You did have the brake spring pliers, right?
>
> http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...-LIS11260.HTML
>
> Chris

Yes, evidently we didn't know how to use them properly. It was shear misery
getting that last spring on.

"Zelix" <nacchisrevenge@[remove this:nospam]yahoo.com> wrote:

> I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was
> the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to
> get those little springs on.

Sure is, you get your buddy to do it, that's why you start any such job
by getting a keg of beer, didn't you know that? ;-)

NOTE: Barbeque works well also.

"XS11E" > wrote in message
. 108...
> "Zelix" <nacchisrevenge@[remove this:nospam]yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was
>> the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to
>> get those little springs on.
>
> Sure is, you get your buddy to do it, that's why you start any such job
> by getting a keg of beer, didn't you know that? ;-)
>
> NOTE: Barbeque works well also.
>

It's worth a keg of beer not to ever have to do it again.

I repete: shear misery.

twaldron wrote:
> DougW wrote:
> > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons
> back in.
>> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that
>> it was one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>>
>> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
>> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
>> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>>
>
> I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you
> open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a
> problem.

It's one way of doing the job, you basically push the old fluid out
and refill from the reservoir instead of having to suction off fluid
when you push the pistons back in. It's much easier to push the piston
back in also. Your basic hand pressure is enough.

--
DougW