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"Poppy" exhaust sound....



 
 
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  #11  
Old September 9th 05, 07:41 PM
Tokay
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That, I will try when I get off work.

Not sure where EGR valve is on my Saturn, but I got a repair manual,
I'm sure I can find it.

No spark problem, I check them every oil change. Although, I suspect I
might have some worn rings, as I notice some oil one the cyl-3 plug
from time to time and that might be causing some issues....

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  #12  
Old September 9th 05, 09:18 PM
Nate Nagel
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Tokay wrote:
> That, I will try when I get off work.
>
> Not sure where EGR valve is on my Saturn, but I got a repair manual,
> I'm sure I can find it.
>
> No spark problem, I check them every oil change. Although, I suspect I
> might have some worn rings, as I notice some oil one the cyl-3 plug
> from time to time and that might be causing some issues....
>


If you are using platinums, that may be your problem. Especially Bosch,
they do not tolerate oil fouling at all. I forget, are you running
regular copper core plugs now?

nate

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  #13  
Old September 9th 05, 10:59 PM
Ryan Underwood
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"Tokay" > writes:

>No spark problem, I check them every oil change. Although, I suspect I
>might have some worn rings, as I notice some oil one the cyl-3 plug
>from time to time and that might be causing some issues....


Could be coming from valve cover or valve stem seals too. Do a wet-dry
compression check if you aren't sure what condition things are in.

  #14  
Old September 10th 05, 12:50 AM
NapalmHeart
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"Ryan Underwood" > wrote in message
...
> "Tokay" > writes:
>
>>Over the past few weeks, my Saturn SL2 has been developing an exhaust
>>noise.....it's kind of a rattly, poppy kind sound. It only occurs
>>under load (up hills, accelerating from a stop, and similar).

>
> Sounds like misfire. I bet one or more of your plugs are shot. Take them
> out
> and have a look. When mine was doing this (occasional pop uphill), about
> 500
> miles later one of the plugs had its insulator touching the electrode and
> no
> spark. My plugs were burning up due to too far advanced timing because I
> did
> not follow the correct procedure to set the timing when I rebuilt my
> distributor.
>


No distributor on his car. There is no timing adjustment either.


  #15  
Old September 10th 05, 06:34 AM
Edward Strauss
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Tokay > wrote:
> It's sitting at about 125k, and define "tune up"......


> I don't take it in for a whole lot of work, unless it'd be cheaper for
> the shop to do it, or I don't have the tools for the job.


> I change the spark plugs every 3 oil changes (I'm experimenting to find
> which gives best economy) but I tried switching out the spark plugs
> from Platinum +4's back to standard plugs when I first noticed the
> sound, but that dropped performance significantly, and made my engine
> noisier (I have no idea why, doesn't make sense to me that it should
> get louder with standard plugs).


> I changed the plug wires at the turn of 100k, but I thought they were
> good for 50k or more....


> I change my oil religiously at 3k (It's just my thing, probably don't
> need to be so anal about it), and I use full synthetic, and a midgrade
> oil filter (Fram tough duty), the air filter I change less religiously
> (every 3 oil changes or whenever I think it's getting bad)


> I tried a can of Seafoam (1/3 in the oil, 1/3 in the gas, and 1/3
> through the PCV) just to see if I could free things up. Did wonders
> for my injectors, even boosted my mileage, but the noise persists.




Time for a back to basics approach... Check compression on all cylinders.
Might have an exhaust valve starting to burn.
  #16  
Old September 13th 05, 12:04 AM
Tokay
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wet-dry compression? what's that mean?

Also, if I want to do a compression chack, does the engine have to be
cranked by hand, or can I just stick the guage in and turn the key?

  #17  
Old September 13th 05, 01:49 AM
William R. Watt
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"Tokay" ) writes:
> wet-dry compression? what's that mean?


read the compression, then put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder through
the spark plug hole and and read the compression again. if there is much
if a difference the rings are worn.

>
> Also, if I want to do a compression chack, does the engine have to be
> cranked by hand, or can I just stick the guage in and turn the key?
>


You'd have difficulty cranking the ingine by hand. Use the starter motor
as you suggest. Some people use a hand held swith clipped to the starter
motor which lets you do it from under the hood. I've done it both ways. It
can be tricky trying to see the guage from inside the vehicle while turning
the ignition switch with the key.

I'd get a basic car maintenance book from the public library and read how
to do a compression test. If you buy a compression guage it should have
instructions with it.



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  #18  
Old September 13th 05, 02:54 AM
Ryan Underwood
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"Tokay" > writes:

>wet-dry compression? what's that mean?


Check compression. Add a few squirts of oil to the cylinders, trying to get it
all around the top ring as best you can from the top. Check compression.
Compare numbers. Ideally, they should be the same. Differing results indicate
worn rings.

>Also, if I want to do a compression chack, does the engine have to be
>cranked by hand, or can I just stick the guage in and turn the key?


Remove spark plugs. Remove coil primary wire. Remove fuel injector(s)/ECM
relay or whatever is necessary to prevent fuel delivery. Insert compression
gauge into #1. Floor the gas pedal. Crank motor 5-6 times with key or remote
starter switch. (Pressure should build up quickly.) Record number on gauge.
Relieve pressure. Remove gauge and repeat for all other cylinders. Post your
numbers here for analysis.

The numbers should be between 120 and 160psi depending on your motor, and they
should be relatively uniform. One cylinder wildly different from the others
could be bad rings or a valvetrain problem. Two cylinders right next to each
other with the same low compression is usually a blown head gasket.

  #19  
Old September 13th 05, 04:10 PM
Tokay
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>Remove fuel injector(s)/ECM
relay or whatever is necessary to prevent fuel delivery.....

Yeah, that's what I was curious about; whether I shold cut off fuel
from entering the cylinder or not.


I do know how to run a compression test, it's just that the term
wet/dry isn't familiar to me.
I'm used to working on 2 strokes and small 4 strokes anyway....

I'll run the compression test when I have some time, probably tomorrow.

 




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