'79 CJ 5 brake line/hose flare size

well then why dont you answer jeep questions instead of defaming bill
hughes

if you and 24butt and the rest of the trolls would just post like
normal people instead of hateful trolls then everybody could just mind
their own business but no you always have to stir crap up because you
need to call attention to your self which is sad and pathetic

Pink ? Freud > wrote:

>On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:22:18 -0600, Jerky Boy America #1 wrote:
>
>> actualy you dont know dick about jeeps so stfu
>
>I know a helluva lot more about them than you do, that's for sure.
>
>And YOU have yet to attempt to answer one single jeep question in this
>group.
>
>Ever.
>
>And I doubt you ever will.
>
>

buzz off toadie

you trolls dont have much time left

the lake of fire awaits

repent or burn forever in never ending agony



> wrote:

>On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 02:08:58 -0700, Pink ? Freud
> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:22:18 -0600, Jerky Boy America #1 wrote:
>>
>>> actualy you dont know dick about jeeps so stfu
>>
>>I know a helluva lot more about them than you do, that's for sure.
>>
>>And YOU have yet to attempt to answer one single jeep question in this
>>group.
>>
>>Ever.
>>
>>And I doubt you ever will.
>>
>>
>
>Hell all you have to do is read the first page in the jeep manual and
>you know more then jeep Zero.

My 1979 CJ-5 proportioning valve looks like that too. I couldn't easily
find anything to support my error-prone memory but I _think_ that 1979 was
a cross-over year for disk/drum fronts. Something makes me think it was
all drums in `78, optional disk in `79 and all disk fronts by `80, so the
difference in the valves might be in the volume differences in the
pistons. I think (but could be completely wrong) that the only external
difference is that the reset under the rubber cap on the end is a button
that needs to be depressed on one version and a pin that needs to be
retracted on the other. There _may_ be an ID stamped in the brass, but
good luck finding it.

Oh, and the mounting plate that the valve bolts to is a prime site for
frame rust. Crap gets down behind the plate and holds it against the
inner face of the frame box. You do need the plate, though, since that
supports the brake lines.

I'd go with the factory-bent tubing, unless you really enjoy measuring,
bending, fitting, bending, fitting, measuring, cursing, scrapping,
bending, fitting, bending, fitting, cursing, lathering, rinsing,
repeating. When I redid my `79 frame-off I went with stainless tubing,
because I wanted to do them only once. Be sure to order new retaining
clips since the original ones are either rusted or gone flat. Don't
forget that there's a flex hose that runs from the wheel arch crossmember
to the rear axle, you'll want to redo that while you're at it.



On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:44:06 -0700, csdude wrote:

> I crawled around under the Jeep a bit and looked at the haynes/ clifford
> manuals. Apparently there were two types of proportioning valves, "D"
> and "W" that year (79). I have the "W" type it looks like and that one
> looks like this one;
> http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=14810
>
> However it says "1977-78 and 1982-86 CJ" in the description. What is
> the difference between this one and the W type or are they the same ?
> (if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck.......)
>
> Ron
>
>
> On Mar 22, 1:44*pm, csdude > wrote:
>> I'm actually starting to lean towards replacing all the brake lines.
>>
>> (thanks for the link, 4wd hardware seems to have the steel lines too)
>>
>> By the time I have all the line, connectors and the right tools to do
>> it I probably spend more than just buy the kit.
>>
>> btw: I am trying to find a proportioning valve for my '79 cj5, but I
>> can't seem to find any online ? (Does anyone know where I can get
>> those?) I see one or two pop up, but it mentions it is not a direct
>> fit. (If I spent the money I might as well get the 'just bolt in' model
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> On Mar 22, 12:58*pm, "DougW" >
>> wrote:
>>
>> > csdude wrote:
>> > > Hi Mike,
>>
>> > > Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with
>> > > extended, braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably
>> > > 30 yo too and besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I
>> > > can just cut it off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.
>>
>> > > If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't
>> > > make a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line
>> > > with a new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is
>> > > that just not a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)
>>
>> > Compression couplers are a _very_ bad idea. Those are for low
>> > pressure lines and can fail at brake pressures. *Don't use them.
>> > *Any shop that would use those on brake line is incompetent.
>>
>> > Considering the age you may be better off buying some new line and
>> > bending it up yourself. *It's not that hard to do if you get a good
>> > bending kit (never bend line by hand). *Use string to figure out the
>> > length you will need.
>>
>> >http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...ics/index.html...
>>
>> > note: remeber to leave expansion and flex joints in the line. You
>> > don't want straight shots. *That's why you see the -._,- bends every
>> > so often. It relieves stress. *The extra coils by the booster are
>> > for cooling. *Brake fluid gets real hot.
>>
>> > Or go aftermarket for some new
>> > lineshttp://www.buybrakes.com/russell/apps-Jeep.html
>>
>> > --
>> > DougW