Rusted out Y-pipe clamp suggestions

Replaced the Cat and everything behind it on my '97 ZJ 5.2 and it got a
lot quieter for about a week, then started getting progressively louder.

Got under it today with a light and found out why
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/sets/72157624929261599/>.

The bolt I can see easily is rusted down to practically nothing and the
clamp itself looks like it's completely severed.

So, any sage advice on the least painful way to proceed?

Or is this one where the best option is to find a good exhaust shop and
let them worry about it?

It looks like the bolt is secured by a nut on the other side of the
manifold rather than being threaded into the manifold. Is that correct?
If so am I just as well off to go ahead and cut the bolts off and drive
them out? Or are they threaded in and have to be turned out?

I've found <http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...wthread.php?t=
16138> does that look like a good approach?

J. Clarke wrote:
> Replaced the Cat and everything behind it on my '97 ZJ 5.2 and it got
> a lot quieter for about a week, then started getting progressively
> louder.
>
> Got under it today with a light and found out why
> <http://www.flickr.com/photos/39383723@N00/sets/72157624929261599/>.
>
> The bolt I can see easily is rusted down to practically nothing and
> the clamp itself looks like it's completely severed.
>
> So, any sage advice on the least painful way to proceed?
>
> Or is this one where the best option is to find a good exhaust shop
> and let them worry about it?

I vote for this option.

> It looks like the bolt is secured by a nut on the other side of the
> manifold rather than being threaded into the manifold. Is that
> correct? If so am I just as well off to go ahead and cut the bolts
> off and drive them out? Or are they threaded in and have to be
> turned out?

Yep. Bolts and nuts. With that much rust I wonder what the manifold
side looks like. The problem is that flange is slid on before downpipe
end is flared and I'm not aware of an aftermarket refit that can slide
on after you take off the old downpipe fitting. I've seen some custom
bits cut out of flat stock then rewelded, but that's a lot of work.
I'd check the local muffler shop and ask if they have anything that can do that.

Given the rust I'd check on how much a new downpipe costs. Of course that
takes welding again at the cat.. but considering the rust that's probably
your best bet.

--
DougW

DougW wrote:

> Yep. Bolts and nuts. With that much rust I wonder what the manifold
> side looks like. The problem is that flange is slid on before downpipe
> end is flared and I'm not aware of an aftermarket refit that can slide
> on after you take off the old downpipe fitting. I've seen some custom
> bits cut out of flat stock then rewelded, but that's a lot of work.
> I'd check the local muffler shop and ask if they have anything that can do
> that.
>
> Given the rust I'd check on how much a new downpipe costs. Of course that
> takes welding again at the cat.. but considering the rust that's probably
> your best bet.

Doug, they used make a set of half-flange pieces with a "U" slot in the
middle. The pieces slide together around the pipe and the holes on the ears
then match up to hold it together. There was one fancy set that even had a
pad one either side that the "U" slid over so that there was a thickness
matched for a flush fit against the flare. The whole thing was considerably
thicker than the original flange and they held pretty well. Of course,
those flanges used to come with brass hardware - even double-nutted - so you
could get them of. Haven't looked for them in years but they may still be
around.

Biggest problem I've had in that part of the exhaust was finding a
replacement gasket. The originals I've worked with were asbestos - try
finding THAT today!

--
Will Honea

In article >,
says...
>
> DougW wrote:
>
> > Yep. Bolts and nuts. With that much rust I wonder what the manifold
> > side looks like. The problem is that flange is slid on before downpipe
> > end is flared and I'm not aware of an aftermarket refit that can slide
> > on after you take off the old downpipe fitting. I've seen some custom
> > bits cut out of flat stock then rewelded, but that's a lot of work.
> > I'd check the local muffler shop and ask if they have anything that can do
> > that.
> >
> > Given the rust I'd check on how much a new downpipe costs. Of course that
> > takes welding again at the cat.. but considering the rust that's probably
> > your best bet.
>
> Doug, they used make a set of half-flange pieces with a "U" slot in the
> middle. The pieces slide together around the pipe and the holes on the ears
> then match up to hold it together. There was one fancy set that even had a
> pad one either side that the "U" slid over so that there was a thickness
> matched for a flush fit against the flare. The whole thing was considerably
> thicker than the original flange and they held pretty well. Of course,
> those flanges used to come with brass hardware - even double-nutted - so you
> could get them of. Haven't looked for them in years but they may still be
> around.
>
> Biggest problem I've had in that part of the exhaust was finding a
> replacement gasket. The originals I've worked with were asbestos - try
> finding THAT today!

Well, the y-pipe is 68 bucks from Amazon, and I've got Prime so the
shipping is free. Now to see how much more than that the muffler shop
will charge. And once it's all on and tight I think I'm going to spray
VHT on the whole area--dunno if it will help keep the flanges and bolts
from rusting but it can't hurt.

In article >,
says...
>
> DougW wrote:
>
> > Yep. Bolts and nuts. With that much rust I wonder what the manifold
> > side looks like. The problem is that flange is slid on before downpipe
> > end is flared and I'm not aware of an aftermarket refit that can slide
> > on after you take off the old downpipe fitting. I've seen some custom
> > bits cut out of flat stock then rewelded, but that's a lot of work.
> > I'd check the local muffler shop and ask if they have anything that can do
> > that.
> >
> > Given the rust I'd check on how much a new downpipe costs. Of course that
> > takes welding again at the cat.. but considering the rust that's probably
> > your best bet.
>
> Doug, they used make a set of half-flange pieces with a "U" slot in the
> middle. The pieces slide together around the pipe and the holes on the ears
> then match up to hold it together. There was one fancy set that even had a
> pad one either side that the "U" slid over so that there was a thickness
> matched for a flush fit against the flare. The whole thing was considerably
> thicker than the original flange and they held pretty well. Of course,
> those flanges used to come with brass hardware - even double-nutted - so you
> could get them of. Haven't looked for them in years but they may still be
> around.
>
> Biggest problem I've had in that part of the exhaust was finding a
> replacement gasket. The originals I've worked with were asbestos - try
> finding THAT today!

Went down to the local independent muffler shop today and found that it
is now a Midas. Figured since I was already there I'd see what they
said. Their guy can do the split flange for he's guessing a couple of
hours labor or the whole Y-pipe for more.

Considering that I'm in the middle of a project in the garage and can't
get it in there, and that the weather's going to turn cold and wet by
the weekend I think I'm gonna just bite the bullet and let him do it.

J. Clarke wrote:

> Went down to the local independent muffler shop today and found that it
> is now a Midas. Figured since I was already there I'd see what they
> said. Their guy can do the split flange for he's guessing a couple of
> hours labor or the whole Y-pipe for more.
>
> Considering that I'm in the middle of a project in the garage and can't
> get it in there, and that the weather's going to turn cold and wet by
> the weekend I think I'm gonna just bite the bullet and let him do it.

Probably a good move. Those rusted bolts can be a flaming bitch to get out!
Also consider the typical situation where one problem leads to another or
you cause another problem in the process. Can you tell that I HATE exhaust
work?

--
Will Honea

In article >, says...
>
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
> > Went down to the local independent muffler shop today and found that it
> > is now a Midas. Figured since I was already there I'd see what they
> > said. Their guy can do the split flange for he's guessing a couple of
> > hours labor or the whole Y-pipe for more.
> >
> > Considering that I'm in the middle of a project in the garage and can't
> > get it in there, and that the weather's going to turn cold and wet by
> > the weekend I think I'm gonna just bite the bullet and let him do it.
>
> Probably a good move. Those rusted bolts can be a flaming bitch to get out!
> Also consider the typical situation where one problem leads to another or
> you cause another problem in the process. Can you tell that I HATE exhaust
> work?

Well, the bottom line is that it took Midas 2 hours labor to fix the
thing--250 bucks later (including tax) it no longer wakes the dead.