97 ZJ front bearing/hub question

Well, the mechanic at the muffler shop found that the right front wheel
bearing is going--I'm going to check that out myself but he seems to
know what he's doing. If in fact it needs to be replaced, what's the
best way to go, pay whatever Jeep wants for an original part, the Timken
that Autozone has for a hundred bucks, 40 bucks on ebay, or is it
rebuildable with reasonable effort?

Also, anybody have suggestions on a cheap way to get the 175 ft-pounds
torque? My torque wrench only goes to 150. My notion is to stick my
biggest breaker bar on it, put a piece of pipe on the breaker bar, and
load the pipe with 87.5 pounds of free weights centered on the 2 foot
mark, but if anybody has a better idea I'd be glad to hear it.

TIA.

J. Clarke wrote:
> Well, the mechanic at the muffler shop found that the right front
> wheel bearing is going--I'm going to check that out myself but he
> seems to know what he's doing. If in fact it needs to be replaced,
> what's the best way to go, pay whatever Jeep wants for an original
> part, the Timken that Autozone has for a hundred bucks, 40 bucks on
> ebay, or is it rebuildable with reasonable effort?

Depends on what you call "reasonable effort." It is something you can do
with basic tools but getting that bolt loose usually takes an air wrench
or a breaker bar and sledge. Get a can of PB Blaster and soak the bolts
the day before you take it apart. One I ran across was so corroded it had
to be split (notched with a dremmel and finished with a cold chisel)

I'd go OEM or Timken (which is likely the OEM). Who knows what quality
you get on fleabay. If you have never packed a bearing this shows the
proper method. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agxjGtmHV_4
Never spin a dry bearing. Some people soak them in degreaser then
air dry them with the hose, that's not good for the bearing as it
causes scratches.


> Also, anybody have suggestions on a cheap way to get the 175 ft-pounds
> torque? My torque wrench only goes to 150. My notion is to stick my
> biggest breaker bar on it, put a piece of pipe on the breaker bar, and
> load the pipe with 87.5 pounds of free weights centered on the 2 foot
> mark, but if anybody has a better idea I'd be glad to hear it.

Have you tried Autozone or PepBoys for a loaner wrench?

I'd just go get a "decent" torque wrench in that range. The aren't that expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-16250.../dp/B000JFL89I
Got mine from Steve's tools for about $50 You can find cheaper ones that use
the pointer and scale. At that level most wrenches are not that accurate anyway
till you get to the 600$ ones.

The oddest thing I've seen is standing on a scale and putting n pounds of
your weight on 3-4' of breaker bar .... it's wierd but it works.

--
DougW

Originally Posted by DougW[_2_]

J. Clarke wrote:
> Well, the mechanic at the muffler shop found that the right front
> wheel bearing is going--I'm going to check that out myself but he
> seems to know what he's doing. If in fact it needs to be replaced,
> what's the best way to go, pay whatever Jeep wants for an original
> part, the Timken that Autozone has for a hundred bucks, 40 bucks on
> ebay, or is it rebuildable with reasonable effort?

Depends on what you call "reasonable effort." It is something you can do
with basic tools but getting that bolt loose usually takes an air wrench
or a breaker bar and sledge. Get a can of PB Blaster and soak the bolts
the day before you take it apart. One I ran across was so corroded it had
to be split (notched with a dremmel and finished with a cold chisel)

I'd go OEM or Timken (which is likely the OEM). Who knows what quality
you get on fleabay. If you have never packed a bearing this shows the
proper method. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agxjGtmHV_4
Never spin a dry bearing. Some people soak them in degreaser then
air dry them with the hose, that's not good for the bearing as it
causes scratches.


> Also, anybody have suggestions on a cheap way to get the 175 ft-pounds
> torque? My torque wrench only goes to 150. My notion is to stick my
> biggest breaker bar on it, put a piece of pipe on the breaker bar, and
> load the pipe with 87.5 pounds of free weights centered on the 2 foot
> mark, but if anybody has a better idea I'd be glad to hear it.

Have you tried Autozone or PepBoys for a loaner wrench?

I'd just go get a "decent" torque wrench in that range. The aren't that expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-16250.../dp/B000JFL89I
Got mine from Steve's tools for about $50 You can find cheaper ones that use
the pointer and scale. At that level most wrenches are not that accurate anyway
till you get to the 600$ ones.

The oddest thing I've seen is standing on a scale and putting n pounds of
your weight on 3-4' of breaker bar .... it's wierd but it works.

--
DougW

Well, turns out that there is some play in the right front, so the bearings are shot. Looks like the Timken it is. Should probably do both sides but money is tight right now.