is it possible to have multiple wires arc and have nothing wrongwith wires??

The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - Œ95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM
coil and module.
I am very curious as to whether or not a bad ignition coil or control module
could cause multiple arcs on many different ignition wires. Originally I
thought it was only bad at the #6 boot but when I really examine it, it
seems that the wires arc all over the place and on different wires. Is it
possible to have this occur due to a shot coil, etc? I am getting a
multiple cylinder random misfire code.

I¹ve never seen this before and these are very good ignition wires (Taylor
8.2mm Thundervolt) - they should rename them Œlightning bolt¹ because that¹s
what they look like at night. Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs (the
distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read somewhere
that once in awhile there¹s a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use the
grease on the boots so I¹m exploring a Œconductive¹ grease as another
possibility.

Thanks for any and all comments.
Andrew.

"AWN" > wrote in message
...
>
> The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - O95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM
> coil and module.
> I am very curious as to whether or not a bad ignition coil or control
> module
> could cause multiple arcs on many different ignition wires. Originally I
> thought it was only bad at the #6 boot but when I really examine it, it
> seems that the wires arc all over the place and on different wires. Is it
> possible to have this occur due to a shot coil, etc?

No.


I am getting a
> multiple cylinder random misfire code.

As you should be.

>
> I¹ve never seen this before and these are very good ignition wires (Taylor
> 8.2mm Thundervolt) - they should rename them Olightning bolt¹ because
> that¹s
> what they look like at night.

Good wires don't arc like that.


> Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs

What plugs did you use and did you gap them properly ??


(the
> distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read
> somewhere
> that once in awhile there¹s a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use the
> grease on the boots so I¹m exploring a Oconductive¹ grease as another
> possibility.

I doubt it's the grease.

>
> Thanks for any and all comments.
> Andrew.
>

My advice would be to get the proper AC Delco plugs and wires for your
vehicle and stop wasting money on junk parts.

in article , Mike at wrote
on 5/4/07 11:35 PM:


>
>
>> Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs
>
> What plugs did you use and did you gap them properly ??

I used AC Delco plugs and gapped them according to the label on the vehicle
(I think it was .045).


>
> (the
>> distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read
>> somewhere
>> that once in awhile there¹s a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use the
>> grease on the boots so I¹m exploring a Oconductive¹ grease as another
>> possibility.
>
> I doubt it's the grease.
>
>>
>> Thanks for any and all comments.
>> Andrew.
>>
>
> My advice would be to get the proper AC Delco plugs and wires for your
> vehicle and stop wasting money on junk parts.

I have never been an fan of 'junk parts' nor do I use them. If you're
referring to the Taylor wires, the incidences of them behaving like this are
almost non-existent. I forgot to mention that every once in awhile the tach
'freezes' at about 2000rpm and will not 'unfreeze' till the vehicle has been
restarted. Does that sound like anything familiar that might fit with this
ignition problem?

Thanks again for your insight.
Andrew.

I have a 96 LeSabre that was doing the same thing only on one wire. I
too was getting a misfire code. The fix was new plug wires.

Good luck!:grinyes:


--
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
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AWN wrote:
> in article , Mike at wrote
> on 5/4/07 11:35 PM:
>
>
>>
>>> Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs
>> What plugs did you use and did you gap them properly ??
>
> I used AC Delco plugs and gapped them according to the label on the vehicle
> (I think it was .045).
>
>
>> (the
>>> distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read
>>> somewhere
>>> that once in awhile there¹s a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use the
>>> grease on the boots so I¹m exploring a Oconductive¹ grease as another
>>> possibility.
>> I doubt it's the grease.
>>
>>> Thanks for any and all comments.
>>> Andrew.
>>>
>> My advice would be to get the proper AC Delco plugs and wires for your
>> vehicle and stop wasting money on junk parts.
>
> I have never been an fan of 'junk parts' nor do I use them. If you're
> referring to the Taylor wires, the incidences of them behaving like this are
> almost non-existent. I forgot to mention that every once in awhile the tach
> 'freezes' at about 2000rpm and will not 'unfreeze' till the vehicle has been
> restarted. Does that sound like anything familiar that might fit with this
> ignition problem?
>
> Thanks again for your insight.
> Andrew.
>

Arcing wires are BAD wires. Doesn't matter who made them. If they are
arcing they are shot. Just because it is "almost non-existent" means
NOTHING.

The tach freeze is probably related to the arcing wires. They are mixing
up the signals under the hood by creating a lot of RF energy. That may
be swamping the tach signal from the coil.


--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
NRA Member
Pacifism - The theory that if they'd fed
Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,
he'd have become a vegan.

In article >, AWN > wrote:
>
>I have never been an fan of 'junk parts' nor do I use them. If you're
>referring to the Taylor wires, the incidences of them behaving like this are
>almost non-existent. I forgot to mention that every once in awhile the tach
>'freezes' at about 2000rpm and will not 'unfreeze' till the vehicle has been
>restarted. Does that sound like anything familiar that might fit with this
>ignition problem?

That could be the result of all the RF noise being generated by the arcing,
but you won't know until you fix the arcing.

If the cables are clean and properly placed, even cheap cables should not
be arcing. Either the voltage is too high, the cables are damaged, or
the cables are placed improperly. Since you gapped the plugs properly,
and you used the correct resistive plugs, the voltage should not be getting
too high. (This CAN happen from using metal wires in place of resistive
ones, though). So all I can think of is a placement issue.

Better-insulated cables, though, wouldn't hurt anything.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"AWN" > wrote in message
...
> in article , Mike at
> wrote
> on 5/4/07 11:35 PM:
>
>
>>
>>
>>> Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs
>>
>> What plugs did you use and did you gap them properly ??
>
> I used AC Delco plugs and gapped them according to the label on the
> vehicle
> (I think it was .045).
>
>
>>
>> (the
>>> distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read
>>> somewhere
>>> that once in awhile there¹s a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use
>>> the
>>> grease on the boots so I¹m exploring a Oconductive¹ grease as another
>>> possibility.
>>
>> I doubt it's the grease.
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for any and all comments.
>>> Andrew.
>>>
>>
>> My advice would be to get the proper AC Delco plugs and wires for your
>> vehicle and stop wasting money on junk parts.
>
> I have never been an fan of 'junk parts' nor do I use them. If you're
> referring to the Taylor wires, the incidences of them behaving like this
> are
> almost non-existent. I forgot to mention that every once in awhile the
> tach
> 'freezes' at about 2000rpm and will not 'unfreeze' till the vehicle has
> been
> restarted. Does that sound like anything familiar that might fit with
> this
> ignition problem?

I looked at the Taylor website and they make all sorts of bull**** claims,
such as more torque, more horsepower, improved fuel economy, etc.......
Don't believe everything you read, none of that will happen just by
switching to their wires. Go get a set of factory plug wires and see if your
problems go away. If you have a new set of wires and they are arcing they
are JUNK. I have tried some of these amazing wire sets years ago and all
they do is lighten your wallet. They didn't hold up as well as factory wires
and they made no difference in peformance or mileage. Since then I will use
nothing but factory wires and I have never had any problems.


> Thanks again for your insight.
> Andrew.
>

Install AC Delco wires and use wire looms to keep them away from other metal
as far as possible....


"Mike" > wrote in message
...
>
> "AWN" > wrote in message
> ...
>> in article , Mike at
>> wrote
>> on 5/4/07 11:35 PM:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs
>>>
>>> What plugs did you use and did you gap them properly ??
>>
>> I used AC Delco plugs and gapped them according to the label on the
>> vehicle
>> (I think it was .045).
>>
>>
>>>
>>> (the
>>>> distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read
>>>> somewhere
>>>> that once in awhile there¹s a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use
>>>> the
>>>> grease on the boots so I¹m exploring a Oconductive¹ grease as another
>>>> possibility.
>>>
>>> I doubt it's the grease.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any and all comments.
>>>> Andrew.
>>>>
>>>
>>> My advice would be to get the proper AC Delco plugs and wires for your
>>> vehicle and stop wasting money on junk parts.
>>
>> I have never been an fan of 'junk parts' nor do I use them. If you're
>> referring to the Taylor wires, the incidences of them behaving like this
>> are
>> almost non-existent. I forgot to mention that every once in awhile the
>> tach
>> 'freezes' at about 2000rpm and will not 'unfreeze' till the vehicle has
>> been
>> restarted. Does that sound like anything familiar that might fit with
>> this
>> ignition problem?
>
> I looked at the Taylor website and they make all sorts of bull****
> claims, such as more torque, more horsepower, improved fuel economy,
> etc....... Don't believe everything you read, none of that will happen
> just by switching to their wires. Go get a set of factory plug wires and
> see if your problems go away. If you have a new set of wires and they are
> arcing they are JUNK. I have tried some of these amazing wire sets years
> ago and all they do is lighten your wallet. They didn't hold up as well as
> factory wires and they made no difference in peformance or mileage. Since
> then I will use nothing but factory wires and I have never had any
> problems.
>
>
>> Thanks again for your insight.
>> Andrew.
>>
>
>

is it possible to have multiple wires arc and have nothing wrong with wires??you might want to check the engine ground cable... its a flat lace cabe that grounds the motor
to the frame. It might be broke or lose. it's located rigt next to the fire wall on the passenger side,
directly behind the head.

HDS


The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - '95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM coil and module.

Thanks HDS. Do I need to look directly behind the distributor or is this
easy to see? I took a quick look but as with all things on this motor, it
looks like it might be a yoga exercise to access.
Thanks again!
Andrew.





in article , HDS at wrote
on 5/5/07 5:27 PM:

> you might want to check the engine ground cable... its a flat lace cabe that
> grounds the motor
> to the frame. It might be broke or lose. it's located rigt next to the fire
> wall on the passenger side,
> directly behind the head.
>
> HDS
>
>>
>> The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - ‘95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM coil
>> and module.
>>
>>
>>
>>