2001 GC negative battery cable

Have a 2001 GC - mostly comes out in Chicago area winters...
Several years ago, the "negative" battery terminal corroded,
and was cut, and attached with a clamp-style cable connector.
Now, after a few years, I'm wondering about the connection.

With a new battery from 2012, the crank seems "hard".
Wonder what will happen when it gets down to "zero".

The "negative" battery connector is really short, tight,
and is wrapped up in a long cable harness.

Wondering if we can somehow un-wrap that cabling,
or get to where the "negative" cable connects,
and run a new cable with a very solid battery connection.

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No Good Deed -
Goes Unpunished

"ps56k" > wrote in message
...
> Have a 2001 GC - mostly comes out in Chicago area winters...
> Several years ago, the "negative" battery terminal corroded,
> and was cut, and attached with a clamp-style cable connector.
> Now, after a few years, I'm wondering about the connection.
>
> With a new battery from 2012, the crank seems "hard".
> Wonder what will happen when it gets down to "zero".
>
> The "negative" battery connector is really short, tight,
> and is wrapped up in a long cable harness.
>
> Wondering if we can somehow un-wrap that cabling,
> or get to where the "negative" cable connects,
> and run a new cable with a very solid battery connection.
>
> --

in place of running a totally new molded cable,
is there a good way to un-wrap from the harness
the "negative" battery cable, cut it back to new copper,
and crimp an extension onto it ?

"ps56k" > wrote in message
...
>
> "ps56k" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Have a 2001 GC - mostly comes out in Chicago area winters...
>> Several years ago, the "negative" battery terminal corroded,
>> and was cut, and attached with a clamp-style cable connector.
>> Now, after a few years, I'm wondering about the connection.
>>
>> With a new battery from 2012, the crank seems "hard".
>> Wonder what will happen when it gets down to "zero".
>>
>> The "negative" battery connector is really short, tight,
>> and is wrapped up in a long cable harness.
>>
>> Wondering if we can somehow un-wrap that cabling,
>> or get to where the "negative" cable connects,
>> and run a new cable with a very solid battery connection.
>>
>> --
>
> in place of running a totally new molded cable,
> is there a good way to un-wrap from the harness
> the "negative" battery cable, cut it back to new copper,
> and crimp an extension onto it ?

Actually, you can buy a "generic" battery cable at any parts store that will
do the job, the harness is just to make it easier on the assembly line
workers.

The lug end that goes to the engine block will be mounted where it can be
reached easily as they had to put it on after the engine was installed at
the factory.

Disconnect it, roughly measure the length, and pick up on at the parts
store.

Be sure to get one with the smallest guage number (wire guages are bigger
diameter for smaller number sizes.) you can and consider doing the same for
the positive cable.

Now, for routing it (them):

Just keep them away from rotating or moving parts, hot manifolds, etc..
Cable ties can be used to tie them in place but allow slack for engine
movement.

Clean the cable ends (both ends of each cable) yearly at a minimum and you
can use ordinary chassis grease or even vaseline to reduce corrosion.


--
Budd

Tolerance cannot be legislated, demanded
or coerced.
It must be given freely and unconditionally.



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