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Clutch bolts and locktite



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 23rd 18, 06:29 AM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Paul in Houston TX[_2_]
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Default Clutch bolts and locktite

Arlen Holder wrote:
> On 22 Jul 2018 18:17:06 GMT, rbowman wrote:
>
>> Are you supporting the engine?

>
> OH oh.... supporting the engine?
> I could. I have plenty of floor jacks.
>
> It's RWD though.
> The vehicle is on four jack stands (two on the rear axle and two on front
> frame points just inside the wheels).
>
> I appreciate your question, and my answer is definitely "no", I am not
> supporting the engine.
>
> It didn't occur to me to support the engine so I have to ask why would that
> help?
>
> (I'm not at all against the idea - I just don't understand how it can
> help?)
>
> How would I support the engine so that it would help?


Oh my.

You _must_ support the engine. Either via a block of wood under the oil
pan, a trans lift under the pan, or a bar with chain across the shock towers
or hood opening. If you dont, the engine will tilt. Bad things can happen
like something goes through the radiator or the exhaust manifold breaks,
wires get ripped off, etc.
The cross member - remove it. It will make life a lot easier.
You did not say what specific engine, vehicle, trans, etc, but without
removing it it is doubtful that that there will be enough room to back off
the trans and then tilt forward to drop it with out breaking off the tail shaft.
So why are you removing the trans? To R&R the clutch?
If so, then replace the throwout bearing while you are at it.
You will need a clutch plate centering tool.
Thread lock- I tend to use blue thread lock on small bolts and nuts
that get torqued to inch pounds but not on large bolts that get
torqued to 100+ foot pounds. A suggestion: replace any lock washers.

 




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