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#1
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Preheater box (pipe)
The preheater box is connected to the heat exchanger with a 1 1/2"
clamp. I can't connect the right preheater box to the heat exchanger at all. Can this pose a potential problem to the engine? Thanks in advance |
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#2
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azazel scratch wrote:
> The preheater box is connected to the heat exchanger with a 1 1/2" > clamp. I can't connect the right preheater box to the heat exchanger at > all. Can this pose a potential problem to the engine? > > Thanks in advance > The worst is that a very small amount of cooling air will escape. I would consider it a minor problem which could wait until Spring to fix... Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#3
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azazel scratch wrote: > I can't connect the right preheater box to the heat exchanger at > all. ------------------------------------ Yes you can :-) But only if you begin with the muffler and both heat exchangers loose. Align the coupling THEN begin tightening things down. Or... with everything already tight, forget about using the stock coupling/clamp and make a new one. Use thin gauge stainless steel (.010") if you can get it, or 'beer-can' aluminum (although a real beer can does not provide a long enough piece of metal). You need a strip about 10" long by 2" wide. Wrap it over a piece of 1" water pipe or similar -- you want it to curl up like a piece of film. Then simply uncurl it and slide it around the junction between the plenum chamber and the heat exchanger. Once it is in place (loose is fine) install a pair of hose clamps, about 4" in diameter... and start tightening them down, a little at a time, keeping the clamps centered on the plenum or heat-exchanger. You can use tape, wire or anything else that works to hold the sleeve in place whilst installing the hose clamps, which you have to open in order to fit them around the sleeve. Once things are tightened down you can clip the ends of the hose, toss the tape, etc. --------------------------------- This should have been done with the engine out of the vehicle. The stock part works perfectly well but only when properly installed (ie, all components loose to begin to begin with). ---------------------------------------------------------- > Can this pose a potential problem to the engine? ---------------------------------------------------------- Big YES! Any leak in the cooling system causes a loss of cooling air PRESSURE. Air expands as it picks up heat; it gets 'sticky,' down between the fins of the heads. You must have the designed amount of PRESSURE to ensure adequate air flow. Any... ANY! ...loss of pressure ANYWHERE in the system will cause the hottest parts of the heads to run even hotter, since there will not be enough pressure to push the heated air out of the fins. Net effect is to shorten the life of your exhaust valves, accelerate wear of the exhaust valve guides, blow a lot of combustion products into the valve galleries and build up a nice layer of varnish. And yes, Virginia, even in the winter time. If you want to run without the cabin heater you should block the outlets on the blower housing with Welch plugs, secured with sheet metal screws or pop-rivets. -Bob Hoover |
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