A/C leak

Last Friday I charged my A/C on my 96 Cherokee with one can (12oz) of R134a
w/ sealer and one can of just R134a.
The A/C seemed OK a few hours later.

I tested it on Sunday and no cool air.

I don't see leaks anywhere.

Should I try the leak detection stuff they sell? If the hoses are OK, where
else should I check, O-rings?




--
Mel

Mel P. wrote:
> Last Friday I charged my A/C on my 96 Cherokee with one can (12oz) of
> R134a w/ sealer and one can of just R134a.
> The A/C seemed OK a few hours later.
>
> I tested it on Sunday and no cool air.
>
> I don't see leaks anywhere.
>
> Should I try the leak detection stuff they sell? If the hoses are
> OK, where else should I check, O-rings?

Go down and see if AutoZone (or similar) has a freon leak detector.

Look at every connection for the tell-tail dirt that accumulates
when the oil gets out of the system. On my ZJ it's usually the
connector on the compressor. Just remember, don't overtighten
that bolt or you can damage the connector.

I dislike "sealer" cans, they put stuff in the system that does
not belong there. Also stay away from cans "with oil" unless you
just replaced the accumulator and actually need oil. Get too much
in there and it can get into the compressor, that's real bad.
Same thing with too much refrigerant.

If the leak is inside (core) then your in for a lot of effort.

You can use the "dye" leak detectors, but some require a black
or UV light to see the dye. Read the can.

--
DougW

Mel P. wrote:

> Last Friday I charged my A/C on my 96 Cherokee with one can (12oz) of
> R134a w/ sealer and one can of just R134a.
> The A/C seemed OK a few hours later.
>
> I tested it on Sunday and no cool air.
>
> I don't see leaks anywhere.
>
> Should I try the leak detection stuff they sell? If the hoses are OK,
> where else should I check, O-rings?

Just went thru this exercise and I'm waiting on some parts to fix it. I
knew from the strip of oil on the inside of the hood over the a/c that I
had some leakage around the clutch end of the compressor but it was a can
every couple of years type until not too long ago so I put in a can of R-12
with dye to check it (had some left over from the good old days ).Pretty
soon, it became obvious that the leak was around the end cap behind the
clutch but it never made much sense to me to pull the shaft out of the seal
on something that old without replacing it so I'm putting a new shaft seal
and new gaskets in the compressor. Since I'm also changing over to R-134a
(finally), I also got all new o-rings for the hoses and a new
receiver/drier. Along with a bottle of POE oil (compatible with both the
old mineral oil and the new PAG oil in R-134a) and shipping, I have $51 in
the fix - and some skinned knuckles getting to all the connectors.

Once the dye check - I could see the pee-green dye without a black light -
revealed the leak point, soapy water confirmed it. Talking to some a/c
shops in town, that is a common leak point so you might pay close attention
to it.

--
Will Honea

DougW wrote:
> Mel P. wrote:
>> Last Friday I charged my A/C on my 96 Cherokee with one can (12oz) of
>> R134a w/ sealer and one can of just R134a.
>> The A/C seemed OK a few hours later.
>>
>> I tested it on Sunday and no cool air.
>>
>> I don't see leaks anywhere.
>>
>> Should I try the leak detection stuff they sell? If the hoses are
>> OK, where else should I check, O-rings?
>
> Go down and see if AutoZone (or similar) has a freon leak detector.
>
> Look at every connection for the tell-tail dirt that accumulates
> when the oil gets out of the system. On my ZJ it's usually the
> connector on the compressor. Just remember, don't overtighten
> that bolt or you can damage the connector.
>
> I dislike "sealer" cans, they put stuff in the system that does
> not belong there. Also stay away from cans "with oil" unless you
> just replaced the accumulator and actually need oil. Get too much
> in there and it can get into the compressor, that's real bad.
> Same thing with too much refrigerant.
>
> If the leak is inside (core) then your in for a lot of effort.
>
> You can use the "dye" leak detectors, but some require a black
> or UV light to see the dye. Read the can.
>


Definitely add dye. The flourescent ones are easier to use, In My
Non-Humble Opinion. Mine turned out to be just a hose, where that
cheap blankety blank connector crimp had leaked.

Any signs of oil whatever along any piece of the A/C is a bright red
flag, but if the oil is collecting at a low point the leak could be some
distance away.

Clean underhood, wipe all of the lines down well to remove any traces of
dirt, oil, etc. and then use a good cleaner to finish it off so anything
that had an oily surface no longer does. That makes it easier to see
new leaks.

A bit too late, but dont risk your system to a sealer. You might end up
replacing the fixed orifice assembly soon, or even the compressor.

If you have a local trustworthy A/C shop, see what they would charge to
pump, dye, pressure check your system and then give you the good/bad
news before replacing anything like the compressor or dash components.