Grand Cherokee HAUNTED DOOR SWITCH?!?!?!?!?

Additional info....

I closed the driver's door, had interior lights completely off just to
save battery, then locked the car with the key remote. Doors were
locked but alarm wasn't armed. Went back out over an hour later and
alarm was still NOT ARMED. If it's a timer then it's set for more
then an hour :O/

infiniteMPG wrote:
> Additional info....
>
> I closed the driver's door, had interior lights completely off just to
> save battery, then locked the car with the key remote. Doors were
> locked but alarm wasn't armed. Went back out over an hour later and
> alarm was still NOT ARMED. If it's a timer then it's set for more
> then an hour :O/

It's starting to sound like something is messed up with the body control module/door module. Could be programming and that will
take the dealer or someone with a DRBIII scantool to figure out.

I still wonder if they messed something up when doing your door. I'd almost suspect a connector problem with the module. Except if
it wasn't working then the disarm from your driver door would not work. They had to disconnect the module to get to the window
motor.

Did the dealer do the work? If so I'd take it back and ask them to check.

--
DougW

> It's starting to sound like something is messed up with the body control module/door module. *Could be programming and that will
> take the dealer or someone with a DRBIII scantool to figure out. I still wonder if they messed something up when doing your door. *I'd almost suspect a connector problem with the module. *Except if it wasn't working then the disarm from your driver door would not work. *They had to disconnect the module to get to the window motor.
> Did the dealer do the work? *If so I'd take it back and ask them to check.

Wasn't a dealer, was a local very good quality shop that has done all
my work for me for a long time. This is Florida and the dealers
charge an arm and a leg and your dreams, too. I am starting to
believe it's a connector and it's just loose. Last night I grabbed
the cable bundle in the door and wiggled it around and didn't change
anyhing. But this morning when I got to work, just for chuckles I hit
the remote lock after exiting the driver's door... the lights went off
and the alarm armed. Go figure. Might pull the door panel off myself
and poke around inside before paying money I don't have to have
someone push a plug back on tighter :O)

Thanks!

infiniteMPG wrote:
>> It's starting to sound like something is messed up with the body
>> control module/door module. Could be programming and that will
>> take the dealer or someone with a DRBIII scantool to figure out. I
>> still wonder if they messed something up when doing your door. I'd
>> almost suspect a connector problem with the module. Except if it
>> wasn't working then the disarm from your driver door would not work.
>> They had to disconnect the module to get to the window motor. Did
>> the dealer do the work? If so I'd take it back and ask them to
>> check.
>
> Wasn't a dealer, was a local very good quality shop that has done all
> my work for me for a long time. This is Florida and the dealers
> charge an arm and a leg and your dreams, too. I am starting to
> believe it's a connector and it's just loose. Last night I grabbed
> the cable bundle in the door and wiggled it around and didn't change
> anyhing. But this morning when I got to work, just for chuckles I hit
> the remote lock after exiting the driver's door... the lights went off
> and the alarm armed. Go figure. Might pull the door panel off myself
> and poke around inside before paying money I don't have to have
> someone push a plug back on tighter :O)

One word of caution on removing the door panel.
Watch those plastic edges, they are amazingly sharp!

It also helps to have the window down.

--
DougW

> One word of caution on removing the door panel. Watch those plastic edges, they are amazingly sharp! It also helps to have the window down.

Thanks Doug. Been there, done that :O/ When I was having problems
with my window the drive feel apart and the window fell down into the
door with rain not too far away. I managed to get the panel off and
get a board under the bottom of the window to prop it up so I didn't
ruin my leather seats. Found out first hand how sharp the edges on
the plastic door panel were.

Appreciate all your help with this.
Scott

> GUEST wrote:
> We have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4WD Quad, V8, that has
been
> a workhorse for our camping field trips. A few months ago I had a
> situation where I had a problem with the driver's side door
electric
> window drive broke. When I took it to the shop, the control
wouldn't
> run UNLESS I had the driver's door CLOSED. I also started noticing
> that the lock switch on the driver's side door wouldn't work UNLESS
> the driver's door was CLOSED. And once after that the window
controls
> stopped working on the driver's side door but started again later
in
> the day. Then a month ago I went out to check my mail at night and
saw
> my interior lights were still on. After opening and closing doors
and
> using the remote lock, they finally went off.
>
> We were camping this past weekend and when returning to the site
after
> dark, my interior lights were ON again. I finally found if I
opened
> the passenger door, click the key switch back to ALT and then OFF,
> then got out and used the remote lock the lights went OFF. But
right
> after I found that when I opened the driver's side door, the
interior
> lights do NOT come on anymore and they still don't today.
>
> With all this FuNkY stuff I don't know if this is door console
switch
> unit, door switch, wiring or where to look. Any and all help or
> suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I don't care to leave
for
> work one day and find my batteries dead because the lights wouldn't
go
> off :O/
>
> Thanks!!!

thank you all. b/c of you i found a broken ground
wire in the rubber boot going in between the door of the jeep and the
jeep itself. I spliced a new piece of wire, same size, back in and
wouldnt you know....el worko!