Gunk on Outside of Carb?

I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
running after warmup.

I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
(30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?

Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
deal with. Where can I get replacements?

Thanks,
Susan

On Jun 25, 10:29*am, susansms > wrote:
> I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
> starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
> running after warmup.
>
> I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
> (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?
>
> Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
> deal with. Where can I get replacements?

Remove the air cleaner.
Put an old towel or something around the carb to protect the paint on
the fan shroud etc.
Spray the outside of the carb with B-12 Chemtool to remove the
reddish-brown gunk.
Let dry and remove the towel.
Gently tighten the screws that hold the top of the carb to the carb
body. I think there are five screws.
Remove the fuel hose from the carb.
Trim the end of the hose and put it back on with a clamp.
That might be all you need to do to stop the leak.

For replacing the cracked vacuum plugs you could try a local auto
parts store. I usually use a small piece of emissions hose with a
small screw in the end of it.

If it still runs poorly, you may need to rebuild the carb.
The simple method, or the 'Bug Me video' method, is to :
Remove the big idle adjustment screw and the little air/fuel
adjustment screw on the side of the carb.
Take a look at the rubber o-rings. If they are worn, replace them
after cleaning these two screws.
Remove the top of the carb and the gasket.
Remove the float bowl plug, it looks like a bolt, on the left side
of the carb,
Remove the main jet and the idle jet(s). Refer to diagram.
Put the nozzle straw on the can of B-12 Chemtool. Spay it through
all of the holes. Be careful, don't get it in your eyes.
Spray it through the main jet and the idle jet(s)
Refer to a diagram and reassemble.
Install and adjust the carb.

Note: I tried removing the butterfly from the choke shaft but, I bent
the shaft on reassembly. That's why I try this simple method like on
the 'Bug Me video' first. I also do not fully immerse the carb in
solvent like some do if I can get by with this simple method. If you
do that, you will need to remove the choke butterfly, and two rubber
diaphragms.

If it still idles poorly, you might have a worn throttle shaft on the
left side of the carb. Try and move it back and forth to check for any
play.
If there is play air can get in and affect the idle and air:fuel
mixture.

These links might help:

http://www.vw-resource.com/carb.html

http://www.vw-resource.com/carb_41.html

http://www.vw-resource.com/carb.html#brosol

The H30/31 carb adjusts just like a 34PICT3 carb
http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

Definitely don,t use Degreaser. Many are alkaline based. Put an old carby I
had in some once, went and had a cuppa , came back and degreaser was greyish
and entire surface of carby was etched away.
John

On Jun 27, 3:52*am, "John" > wrote:
> Definitely don,t use Degreaser. Many are alkaline based. Put on an old carby I
> had in some once, went and had a cuppa , came back and degreaser was greyish
> and entire surface of *carby was etched away.
> * * *John


If it is an old carb it probably has the dull grey finish anyway.

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:29:09 +0200, susansms >
wrote:

> I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
> starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
> running after warmup.
>
> I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
> (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?
>
> Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
> deal with. Where can I get replacements?
>
> Thanks,
> Susan

Remove aircleaner, rev to aprox 4000 with left hand and imediately place
the palm of your right hand over the carb throat, remove just before it
stalls, let it rev back up and repeat process three times.
I believe it is called the 50-Cent carb rebuild your ways. It is
suprisingly effective.

Basicly what you do is creating a huge vacuum inside the induction system
clearing out partially blocked passages inside the carb.

J.
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

"P.J.Berg" > wrote in message
news
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:29:09 +0200, susansms >
> wrote:
>
>> I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
>> starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
>> running after warmup.
>>
>> I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
>> (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?
>>
>> Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
>> deal with. Where can I get replacements?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Susan
>
> Remove aircleaner, rev to aprox 4000 with left hand and imediately place
> the palm of your right hand over the carb throat, remove just before it
> stalls, let it rev back up and repeat process three times.
> I believe it is called the 50-Cent carb rebuild your ways. It is
> suprisingly effective.
>
> Basicly what you do is creating a huge vacuum inside the induction system
> clearing out partially blocked passages inside the carb.
>
hahaha, that's the "redneck carb rebuild"

On Tue, 29 Jun 2010 05:30:14 +0200, Joey Tribiani > wrote:

>
>
> "P.J.Berg" > wrote in message
> news
>> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:29:09 +0200, susansms
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
>>> starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
>>> running after warmup.
>>>
>>> I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
>>> (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?
>>>
>>> Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
>>> deal with. Where can I get replacements?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Susan
>>
>> Remove aircleaner, rev to aprox 4000 with left hand and imediately
>> place the palm of your right hand over the carb throat, remove just
>> before it stalls, let it rev back up and repeat process three times.
>> I believe it is called the 50-Cent carb rebuild your ways. It is
>> suprisingly effective.
>>
>> Basicly what you do is creating a huge vacuum inside the induction
>> system clearing out partially blocked passages inside the carb.
>>
> hahaha, that's the "redneck carb rebuild"

Yes, works great!

One thing I forgot to mention. If the idle cutout solenoid is not fed 12V
the car will initially idle on the choke but stall as soon as it reaches a
temperature where the choke backs off.
Turn ignition on, remove the electrical wire connected to the metal
cylinder protruding from the carb's left-hand side. Tapping this wire at
its connection point(Male spade) should give you a low clicking noise. If
no clicking noise the plunger attached to the electro magnet is stuck or
you are not getting 12V at the before mentioned wire.

Had this happen to Fellatio many years back..

J.

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Joey Tribiani wrote:
>
>
> "P.J.Berg" > wrote in message
> news
>> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:29:09 +0200, susansms
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
>>> starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
>>> running after warmup.
>>>
>>> I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
>>> (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?
>>>
>>> Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
>>> deal with. Where can I get replacements?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Susan
>>
>> Remove aircleaner, rev to aprox 4000 with left hand and imediately
>> place the palm of your right hand over the carb throat, remove just
>> before it stalls, let it rev back up and repeat process three times.
>> I believe it is called the 50-Cent carb rebuild your ways. It is
>> suprisingly effective.
>>
>> Basicly what you do is creating a huge vacuum inside the induction
>> system clearing out partially blocked passages inside the carb.
>>
> hahaha, that's the "redneck carb rebuild"


Works wonders 99% of the time

On Tue, 29 Jun 2010 20:37:03 +0200, Jan Andersson
> wrote:

> Joey Tribiani wrote:
>> "P.J.Berg" > wrote in message
>> news
>>> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:29:09 +0200, susansms
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car
>>>> starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her
>>>> running after warmup.
>>>>
>>>> I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb
>>>> (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?
>>>>
>>>> Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to
>>>> deal with. Where can I get replacements?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Susan
>>>
>>> Remove aircleaner, rev to aprox 4000 with left hand and imediately
>>> place the palm of your right hand over the carb throat, remove just
>>> before it stalls, let it rev back up and repeat process three times.
>>> I believe it is called the 50-Cent carb rebuild your ways. It is
>>> suprisingly effective.
>>>
>>> Basicly what you do is creating a huge vacuum inside the induction
>>> system clearing out partially blocked passages inside the carb.
>>>
>> hahaha, that's the "redneck carb rebuild"
>
>
> Works wonders 99% of the time

In fact it works on the exact opposite principle of the beer can I just
opened.
(****e was that it is the last one).

J.
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