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#1
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hard to start
i have a 91 jeep cherokee 4.0 its hard to start at first when i shut it off
it restarts just fine i let it sit about 15 min its hard to start again |
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#2
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At that age, I would suspect a dirty computer sensor connection affected
by heat. The likely one is the CPS plug and socket sitting on top of the exhaust manifold behind the throttle body. The other two that contribute are the TPS and IAC on the throttle body. I would recommend you open these plugs and sockets and clean them with a spray contact cleaner. An electronic contact cleaner is the best, but WD40 will work ok too. I use dielectric grease on the plug seal skirts when I put it back on. They seem to stay cleaner longer with it on. Then I would hear about it if I didn't mention the ground strap from the engine head to the firewall. ;-) That gets dirty and actually crumbles with age as well. Because it is on the head, heat affects it too. If you haven't put a new distributor cap and rotor in recently, they would be worth a look at or replacement. That 'usually' acts up in humidity more than heat though.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's curbrider wrote: > > i have a 91 jeep cherokee 4.0 its hard to start at first when i shut it off > it restarts just fine i let it sit about 15 min its hard to start again |
#3
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I have been dealing with this hard to start jeep for six months the
cleaning did the trick i second URR THE MAN!!! |
#4
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curbrider proclaimed:
> i have a 91 jeep cherokee 4.0 its hard to start at first when i shut it off > it restarts just fine i let it sit about 15 min its hard to start again > Describe "hard to start" a bit more completely. If hard to start means that the engine cranks for a few seconds before it starts....and only does this after the engine has been off for a while, the next time you try it first turn the key to the on position but do not try to start. You should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds and then quit. If you can then turn the key off and back on and it starts, you have a pressure leakdown. |
#5
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Ditto.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/ Lon wrote: > > Describe "hard to start" a bit more completely. > > If hard to start means that the engine cranks for a few seconds before > it starts....and only does this after the engine has been off for a > while, the next time you try it first turn the key to the on > position but do not try to start. You should hear the fuel pump > run for a couple seconds and then quit. If you can then turn the > key off and back on and it starts, you have a pressure leakdown. |
#6
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Odds are it's the anti-drainback valve is leaking fuel down from the
injector rail. The anti-drainback valve's function is to allow flow into the fuel-injector fuel rail but not back out of the rail. If the fuel rail has has its gas drain out, it takes a few seconds for the fuel pump to get fuel back to the distributors. curbrider wrote: > i have a 91 jeep cherokee 4.0 its hard to start at first when i shut it off > it restarts just fine i let it sit about 15 min its hard to start again > -- Jerry Bransford PP-ASEL N6TAY See the Geezer Jeep at http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/ |
#7
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"Jerry Bransford" > wrote in message news:SlMoe.1292$xr.823@fed1read05... > Odds are it's the anti-drainback valve is leaking fuel down from the > injector rail. The anti-drainback valve's function is to allow flow > into the fuel-injector fuel rail but not back out of the rail. If the > fuel rail has has its gas drain out, it takes a few seconds for the fuel > pump to get fuel back to the distributors. On my '93 XJ that was easy to test... take off the bleeder port cap, and depress the Schrader valve with a small sharp instrument... have a rag handy, and wear eye protection! You should get a spurt of gasoline under pressure if your system is working well. The safest way to do this would be with a fuel-pressure bleeder-gauge rig... pretty cheap, and indispensable when troubleshooting FI problems. Mine cost about $40... bonus, you can fill your mower without sucking on a tube! __ Steve .. |
#8
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It's hell when we feel we must warn people what pressured gasoline
may do. That extra R-12 gauge and fittings should be perfect to read the forty pounds, ninety pinched return line. God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/ Stephen Cowell wrote: > > On my '93 XJ that was easy to test... take off the > bleeder port cap, and depress the Schrader valve > with a small sharp instrument... have a rag handy, > and wear eye protection! You should get a spurt > of gasoline under pressure if your system is working > well. > > The safest way to do this would be with a > fuel-pressure bleeder-gauge rig... pretty > cheap, and indispensable when troubleshooting > FI problems. Mine cost about $40... bonus, > you can fill your mower without sucking on > a tube! > __ > Steve > . |
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