Red Light on dash

Michael Cecil wrote:

> On Mon, 07 May 2007 22:59:29 -0400, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
>
>> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
>> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>
>
> What's the best way to replace the bulb in the light? How does that come
> out of the dash (in a 70) if you know?


The plastic housing has tabs behind the dash opening
which hold it in. Have to get back there and release them.
I don't think the front of the thing comes off for access.

Jim

On May 8, 10:41 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> Scotty wrote:
> > On May 7, 9:59 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>On May 6, 12:04 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>On May 5, 8:34 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>ok, wut does the red light mean its between the vent controls, on a
> >>>>>>>1970 VW beetle
>
> >>>>>>The small one with a "B" is the dual circuit brake warning light.
> >>>>>>If one of the brake circuits springs a leak, etc., the light will
> >>>>>>come on when you step on the brakes.
> >>>>>>I believe the light on your '70 is "Push-To-Test" type.
>
> >>>>>>The larger red knob that looks like:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/hazard.jpg
> >>>>>>is the 4-Way Hazard flasher.
>
> >>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> >>>>>>"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!"
> >>>>>>Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.
>
> >>>>>It still comes on without hitting the brakes
>
> >>>> Either one of the brake switches has failed, there is residual
> >>>>pressure on one of the hydraulic circuits, or there may be
> >>>>corrosion inside the rubber booties connecting to the
> >>>>brake switch terminals.
>
> >>>>If you are interested, I have a diagram of the switch wiring hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif
>
> >>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> >>>ok, it goes off when i hit the brakes i noticed that today...
>
> >> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
> >> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>
> >>Jim
>
> > Ok which Switches could be bad??? so i know wut to check???
> > Thanks for all your help Jim
>
> There are 2 switches screwed into the master cylinder.
> You need the 3-prong style.
>
> They are not easy to get to. Remove the left frt tire.
>
> No guarantees. But that's where I would start.
> Jim


Are the covered by a rubber thing??? Or is it on the other side?

Scotty wrote:

> On May 8, 10:41 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>On May 7, 9:59 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>On May 6, 12:04 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>On May 5, 8:34 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>ok, wut does the red light mean its between the vent controls, on a
>>>>>>>>>1970 VW beetle
>>
>>>>>>>>The small one with a "B" is the dual circuit brake warning light.
>>>>>>>>If one of the brake circuits springs a leak, etc., the light will
>>>>>>>>come on when you step on the brakes.
>>>>>>>>I believe the light on your '70 is "Push-To-Test" type.
>>
>>>>>>>>The larger red knob that looks like:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/hazard.jpg
>>>>>>>>is the 4-Way Hazard flasher.
>>
>>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>>>>>>>"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!"
>>>>>>>>Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.
>>
>>>>>>>It still comes on without hitting the brakes
>>
>>>>>> Either one of the brake switches has failed, there is residual
>>>>>>pressure on one of the hydraulic circuits, or there may be
>>>>>>corrosion inside the rubber booties connecting to the
>>>>>>brake switch terminals.
>>
>>>>>>If you are interested, I have a diagram of the switch wiring hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif
>>
>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>>>>ok, it goes off when i hit the brakes i noticed that today...
>>
>>>> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
>>>> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>>
>>>>Jim
>>
>>>Ok which Switches could be bad??? so i know wut to check???
>>>Thanks for all your help Jim
>>
>> There are 2 switches screwed into the master cylinder.
>> You need the 3-prong style.
>>
>> They are not easy to get to. Remove the left frt tire.
>>
>> No guarantees. But that's where I would start.
>>Jim
>
>
>
> Are the covered by a rubber thing??? Or is it on the other side?
>

Yes, there is a rubber boot covering the terminals.
Pull the boot back and inspect inside for corrosion
before doing anything else.

Jim

On May 8, 3:20 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> Scotty wrote:
> > On May 8, 10:41 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>On May 7, 9:59 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>On May 6, 12:04 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>On May 5, 8:34 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>>ok, wut does the red light mean its between the vent controls, on a
> >>>>>>>>>1970 VW beetle
>
> >>>>>>>>The small one with a "B" is the dual circuit brake warning light.
> >>>>>>>>If one of the brake circuits springs a leak, etc., the light will
> >>>>>>>>come on when you step on the brakes.
> >>>>>>>>I believe the light on your '70 is "Push-To-Test" type.
>
> >>>>>>>>The larger red knob that looks like:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/hazard.jpg
> >>>>>>>>is the 4-Way Hazard flasher.
>
> >>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> >>>>>>>>"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!"
> >>>>>>>>Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.
>
> >>>>>>>It still comes on without hitting the brakes
>
> >>>>>> Either one of the brake switches has failed, there is residual
> >>>>>>pressure on one of the hydraulic circuits, or there may be
> >>>>>>corrosion inside the rubber booties connecting to the
> >>>>>>brake switch terminals.
>
> >>>>>>If you are interested, I have a diagram of the switch wiring hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif
>
> >>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> >>>>>ok, it goes off when i hit the brakes i noticed that today...
>
> >>>> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
> >>>> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>
> >>>>Jim
>
> >>>Ok which Switches could be bad??? so i know wut to check???
> >>>Thanks for all your help Jim
>
> >> There are 2 switches screwed into the master cylinder.
> >> You need the 3-prong style.
>
> >> They are not easy to get to. Remove the left frt tire.
>
> >> No guarantees. But that's where I would start.
> >>Jim
>
> > Are the covered by a rubber thing??? Or is it on the other side?
>
> Yes, there is a rubber boot covering the terminals.
> Pull the boot back and inspect inside for corrosion
> before doing anything else.
>
> Jim


ok, so iff there isn't any corrosion it sould be good???

On Tue, 08 May 2007 11:43:05 -0400, Speedy Jim > wrote:

>Michael Cecil wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 07 May 2007 22:59:29 -0400, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
>>> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>>
>>
>> What's the best way to replace the bulb in the light? How does that come
>> out of the dash (in a 70) if you know?
>
>
> The plastic housing has tabs behind the dash opening
>which hold it in. Have to get back there and release them.
>I don't think the front of the thing comes off for access.
>
>Jim

Hmmm. Oh well, nothing is ever easy.
Figured I'd fix that while I was oiling my speedo bearing and redoing its
lights.
--
Michael Cecil
http://home.roadrunner.com/~macecil/
http://home.roadrunner.com/~safehex/
http://home.roadrunner.com/~macecil/hackingvista/

What would be the easiest way to pull the switches out???
Jim Thank you for all your help

Scotty wrote:

> What would be the easiest way to pull the switches out???
> Jim Thank you for all your help
>
>

The *really* easy way? Take the gas tank out.

But I would rather take the wheel off and work
from in there. It's cramped for a big guy though...

Jim

Scotty wrote:

> On May 8, 3:20 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>On May 8, 10:41 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>On May 7, 9:59 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>On May 6, 12:04 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>On May 5, 8:34 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>ok, wut does the red light mean its between the vent controls, on a
>>>>>>>>>>>1970 VW beetle
>>
>>>>>>>>>>The small one with a "B" is the dual circuit brake warning light.
>>>>>>>>>>If one of the brake circuits springs a leak, etc., the light will
>>>>>>>>>>come on when you step on the brakes.
>>>>>>>>>>I believe the light on your '70 is "Push-To-Test" type.
>>
>>>>>>>>>>The larger red knob that looks like:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/hazard.jpg
>>>>>>>>>>is the 4-Way Hazard flasher.
>>
>>>>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>>>>>>>>>"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!"
>>>>>>>>>>Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.
>>
>>>>>>>>>It still comes on without hitting the brakes
>>
>>>>>>>>Either one of the brake switches has failed, there is residual
>>>>>>>>pressure on one of the hydraulic circuits, or there may be
>>>>>>>>corrosion inside the rubber booties connecting to the
>>>>>>>>brake switch terminals.
>>
>>>>>>>>If you are interested, I have a diagram of the switch wiring hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif
>>
>>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>>>>>>ok, it goes off when i hit the brakes i noticed that today...
>>
>>>>>> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
>>>>>> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>>
>>>>>>Jim
>>
>>>>>Ok which Switches could be bad??? so i know wut to check???
>>>>>Thanks for all your help Jim
>>
>>>> There are 2 switches screwed into the master cylinder.
>>>> You need the 3-prong style.
>>
>>>> They are not easy to get to. Remove the left frt tire.
>>
>>>> No guarantees. But that's where I would start.
>>>>Jim
>>
>>>Are the covered by a rubber thing??? Or is it on the other side?
>>
>> Yes, there is a rubber boot covering the terminals.
>> Pull the boot back and inspect inside for corrosion
>> before doing anything else.
>>
>>Jim
>
>
>
> ok, so iff there isn't any corrosion it sould be good???
>

If there's no corrosion, the plugs are probably OK.
The switches can still be bad.

Jim

On May 8, 4:36 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
> Scotty wrote:
> > On May 8, 3:20 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>On May 8, 10:41 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>On May 7, 9:59 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>On May 6, 12:04 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>>On May 5, 8:34 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>ok, wut does the red light mean its between the vent controls, on a
> >>>>>>>>>>>1970 VW beetle
>
> >>>>>>>>>>The small one with a "B" is the dual circuit brake warning light.
> >>>>>>>>>>If one of the brake circuits springs a leak, etc., the light will
> >>>>>>>>>>come on when you step on the brakes.
> >>>>>>>>>>I believe the light on your '70 is "Push-To-Test" type.
>
> >>>>>>>>>>The larger red knob that looks like:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/hazard.jpg
> >>>>>>>>>>is the 4-Way Hazard flasher.
>
> >>>>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> >>>>>>>>>>"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!"
> >>>>>>>>>>Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.
>
> >>>>>>>>>It still comes on without hitting the brakes
>
> >>>>>>>>Either one of the brake switches has failed, there is residual
> >>>>>>>>pressure on one of the hydraulic circuits, or there may be
> >>>>>>>>corrosion inside the rubber booties connecting to the
> >>>>>>>>brake switch terminals.
>
> >>>>>>>>If you are interested, I have a diagram of the switch wiring hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif
>
> >>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
> >>>>>>>ok, it goes off when i hit the brakes i noticed that today...
>
> >>>>>> Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
> >>>>>> Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>
> >>>>>>Jim
>
> >>>>>Ok which Switches could be bad??? so i know wut to check???
> >>>>>Thanks for all your help Jim
>
> >>>> There are 2 switches screwed into the master cylinder.
> >>>> You need the 3-prong style.
>
> >>>> They are not easy to get to. Remove the left frt tire.
>
> >>>> No guarantees. But that's where I would start.
> >>>>Jim
>
> >>>Are the covered by a rubber thing??? Or is it on the other side?
>
> >> Yes, there is a rubber boot covering the terminals.
> >> Pull the boot back and inspect inside for corrosion
> >> before doing anything else.
>
> >>Jim
>
> > ok, so iff there isn't any corrosion it sould be good???
>
> If there's no corrosion, the plugs are probably OK.
> The switches can still be bad.
>
> Jim


Well... i'm a BIG guy lol, 6'2" 195 WIDE sholders, it suck lol but i
got one out, no corrosion but i'm gonna change both plugs i have to
order them tho

Scotty wrote:

> On May 8, 4:36 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>
>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>On May 8, 3:20 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>On May 8, 10:41 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>On May 7, 9:59 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>On May 6, 12:04 pm, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>On May 5, 8:34 am, Speedy Jim > wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>Scotty wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>ok, wut does the red light mean its between the vent controls, on a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>1970 VW beetle
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>The small one with a "B" is the dual circuit brake warning light.
>>>>>>>>>>>>If one of the brake circuits springs a leak, etc., the light will
>>>>>>>>>>>>come on when you step on the brakes.
>>>>>>>>>>>>I believe the light on your '70 is "Push-To-Test" type.
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>The larger red knob that looks like:http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/pics/hazard.jpg
>>>>>>>>>>>>is the 4-Way Hazard flasher.
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!"
>>>>>>>>>>>>Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.
>>
>>>>>>>>>>>It still comes on without hitting the brakes
>>
>>>>>>>>>>Either one of the brake switches has failed, there is residual
>>>>>>>>>>pressure on one of the hydraulic circuits, or there may be
>>>>>>>>>>corrosion inside the rubber booties connecting to the
>>>>>>>>>>brake switch terminals.
>>
>>>>>>>>>>If you are interested, I have a diagram of the switch wiring hehttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/3brake.gif
>>
>>>>>>>>>>Speedy Jimhttp://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>>>>>>>>ok, it goes off when i hit the brakes i noticed that today...
>>
>>>>>>>>Probably a bad switch. Failures are common.
>>>>>>>>Best to swap them both out for new ones.
>>
>>>>>>>>Jim
>>
>>>>>>>Ok which Switches could be bad??? so i know wut to check???
>>>>>>>Thanks for all your help Jim
>>
>>>>>> There are 2 switches screwed into the master cylinder.
>>>>>> You need the 3-prong style.
>>
>>>>>> They are not easy to get to. Remove the left frt tire.
>>
>>>>>> No guarantees. But that's where I would start.
>>>>>>Jim
>>
>>>>>Are the covered by a rubber thing??? Or is it on the other side?
>>
>>>> Yes, there is a rubber boot covering the terminals.
>>>> Pull the boot back and inspect inside for corrosion
>>>> before doing anything else.
>>
>>>>Jim
>>
>>>ok, so iff there isn't any corrosion it sould be good???
>>
>> If there's no corrosion, the plugs are probably OK.
>> The switches can still be bad.
>>
>>Jim
>
>
>
> Well... i'm a BIG guy lol, 6'2" 195 WIDE sholders, it suck lol but i
> got one out, no corrosion but i'm gonna change both plugs i have to
> order them tho
>

HaHa! Good job.

Let us know the outcome.

Jim