4.0L Oil Filter Adapter O Ring replacement - problem with the Torx bolt

I've read that this is probably the easiest oil leak fix on the 4.0L.
It looks easy, too - IF I just could get that Torx bolt to break free.

On my XJ it is very close quarters between the Torx and the fender
well, so I can't use the socket. I've shot the bolt and adapter
housing with PB for days, finally found a T-60 Torx that will work
(removing the hex stock from the socket), put a cheater on the end of
the wrench, and so far have managed only to strip a Craftsman wrench.

After buying the O-rings, taking several days to locate a Torx, I have
been visiting my engine every evening for a few minutes of levering
and re-spraying with PB. Is there some secret technique to breaking
the Torx loose?

I was so looking forward to doing away with that cardboard under the
car...

As always, thanks for any help.

JS

98XJ <> wrote:

> I've read that this is probably the easiest oil leak fix on the 4.0L.
> It looks easy, too - IF I just could get that Torx bolt to break free.
>
> On my XJ it is very close quarters between the Torx and the fender
> well, so I can't use the socket. I've shot the bolt and adapter
> housing with PB for days, finally found a T-60 Torx that will work
> (removing the hex stock from the socket), put a cheater on the end of
> the wrench, and so far have managed only to strip a Craftsman wrench.
>
> After buying the O-rings, taking several days to locate a Torx, I have
> been visiting my engine every evening for a few minutes of levering
> and re-spraying with PB. Is there some secret technique to breaking
> the Torx loose?
>
> I was so looking forward to doing away with that cardboard under the
> car...
>
> As always, thanks for any help.

I hate to tell you this but the PB or Liquid wrench are basically a waste of
time here - the bolt is hollow and oil soaked so it is likely baked oil
holding it. I about pulled a hernia on the couple I've pulled!

You can gain a little working room by lifting the engine from below with a
jack (use a board to prevent damage to the pan). On the really tough one,
I bought a GOOD torx bit and did as you did by pulling the hex bit out. I
stuck a 6-point boxend wrench on the shank then had a helper use a crow bar
against the end of the bit to keep it from popping out of the bolt head
while I pulled on a long cheater bar.

Be careful how you pull on that wrench/cheater! When that sucker breaks
loose, you'll swear you broke it off - it will really pop. Then it's
darned near a finger job to get it the rest of the way.

--
Will Honea

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