broken bleeder valve

1970 Bug
I have been fortunate to break several bleeder valves off that now
need replacing, can someone tell me the size of the 'axle nut' so
I can get the hub off?

I have another pan which has disk brakes on all four-trouble is
that the transaxle isn't the same nor is the front end. Would it be
worthwhile to swap the the whole rear and front ends out or is this
even possible? Perhaps there is some conversion kit out there that would
make this possible.

Thanks for any and all responses.

news wrote:
> 1970 Bug
> I have been fortunate to break several bleeder valves off that now
> need replacing, can someone tell me the size of the 'axle nut' so
> I can get the hub off?
>
> I have another pan which has disk brakes on all four-trouble is
> that the transaxle isn't the same nor is the front end. Would it be
> worthwhile to swap the the whole rear and front ends out or is this
> even possible? Perhaps there is some conversion kit out there that would
> make this possible.
>
> Thanks for any and all responses.
>
>


Short answer: 36mm

--------------------

Long answer:
It takes a *huge* amount of force/torque to get the nuts off and on.
See this thread for some ideas:
http://www.356registry.org/Tech/axle_nut_removal.html

One thing that *won't* suffice is a 1/2" drive ratchet or strong-arm
bar. Will bend/break immediately.

From the headers, I'm guessing this is in the US and the '70 is an IRS
rear end (swing axle is worse). If you insist on replacing the
wheel cyls, figure on doing the shoes too, and the grease seal, gaskets.
And this will be a once in a lifetime opportunity to renew the 35 year
old grease in the wheel bearings. Don't forget new flex hoses all 'round.

<phew>

If the shoes and hydraulics are OK otherwise, you *could* bleed
by simply loosening the flex hose at each wheel and pump/tighten
to get any air out.

If you decide to do the wheel cyls, plan ahead for the inevitable
parts that will break/won't come apart/won't fit. BTDT

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Jim is dead right there, I,ve got a 36mm skt with a 3/4 inch fitting and 6
feet of gas pipe to go over that. Even with that it can be a struggle and
I,ve wondered whether the nut or skt will give up first. So far skt has won!
John.
"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
...
> news wrote:
>> 1970 Bug
>> I have been fortunate to break several bleeder valves off that now
>> need replacing, can someone tell me the size of the 'axle nut' so
>> I can get the hub off?
>>
>> I have another pan which has disk brakes on all four-trouble is
>> that the transaxle isn't the same nor is the front end. Would it be
>> worthwhile to swap the the whole rear and front ends out or is this
>> even possible? Perhaps there is some conversion kit out there that would
>> make this possible.
>>
>> Thanks for any and all responses.
>
>
> Short answer: 36mm
>
> --------------------
>
> Long answer:
> It takes a *huge* amount of force/torque to get the nuts off and on.
> See this thread for some ideas:
> http://www.356registry.org/Tech/axle_nut_removal.html
>
> One thing that *won't* suffice is a 1/2" drive ratchet or strong-arm
> bar. Will bend/break immediately.
>
> From the headers, I'm guessing this is in the US and the '70 is an IRS
> rear end (swing axle is worse). If you insist on replacing the
> wheel cyls, figure on doing the shoes too, and the grease seal, gaskets.
> And this will be a once in a lifetime opportunity to renew the 35 year
> old grease in the wheel bearings. Don't forget new flex hoses all 'round.
>
> <phew>
>
> If the shoes and hydraulics are OK otherwise, you *could* bleed
> by simply loosening the flex hose at each wheel and pump/tighten
> to get any air out.
>
> If you decide to do the wheel cyls, plan ahead for the inevitable
> parts that will break/won't come apart/won't fit. BTDT
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

In article >,
"John" > wrote:

> I have been fortunate to break several bleeder valves off that now
> >> need replacing, can someone tell me the size of the 'axle nut' so
> >> I can get the hub off?

Go out right now and squirt a little easing oil on any threaded item
that you may eventually want to loosen. avoid the rubber parts.
the vibration on the road helps get the oil into the threads . well , it
can't hurt.
--
If Evolution is out-lawed. Only the Out-laws will evolve.

One word-
Torquemeister

Also knoiwn as a "Cooper's Tool"
Put the toother plate on the drum with 2 of your lug bolts.
Attach the gear small end of the arm, and the large end (36mm) goes
over the axle nut.
You can get over 300 lbs.-ft with a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet.
I cannot tell you how many times my Torquemeister has saved the day at
the races, on the road, it alao works on the stock flywheel gland nut;
you just don't use the gear plate, you use the teeth on the flywheel
instead.
The Torquemeister multiplies torque x9, so 30 lbs.-feet = 270 lbs.-ft.
A lot of suppliers have them now, used to be only Kymco had them, but
I think even Mid-America Motorworks sells them now.
To me, it's as important a tool for an ACVW as a .004" feeler gauge.