'79 CJ 5 brake line/hose flare size

Hi all,

I am (trying) to replace the brake hoses that go from the brake
lines to the caliper (front) and from the line to the rear axle with
extended stainless steel braided ones.

Anyway, I tried to get the flare nuts loose (of course with a flare
wrench) and had one that seemed to fit snug (after cleaning them off)
but somehow I managed to get one stripped anyway (the hex is no longer
hex but rounded).

What size flare nuts are used in the front and the rear ?

thanks,

Ron

Hi Bill,

I actually have those craftsmen flare wrenches, I have the whole set.
The cj5 is a '79, I have it for 10 years now , who knows what happened
in the 20 before that. (the flare nuts looked a bit messed up already)

I was actually thinking of cutting the flare nut off and put a new one
on. I do have enough 'play' to pull the line out through the frame a
little bit further.

However there is some 'protective ribbed shielding' on the line. Is it
possible to cut a little of that shielding off so I have some room to
make that flare? Or is that 'shielding' part of the line?
Wild guess , the line that goes to the calipers on the front axle is
3/16?

Ron


PS: I looked at a new set of those pre-formed already (pricey though)


On Mar 22, 3:41*am, "L.W.\(ßill\)Hughes III"
> wrote:
> Hi Ron,
> * * Next time use a genuine Craftsmen line wrench with just six sides:http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...&resMode=sharp....
> I've never stripped, broke nor rounded a brake part, in literally thousands
> of brake jobs. And I've always used a six sided sockets on the bleeders,
> usually a 5/16. That avoids embarrassing one's self after assemble.
> * * Might as well cut it off and reflare the line with a new nut. This may
> be the excuse you've been waiting for, replacing it with failure prone
> brittle stainless.
> * * * * God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> * * * *
> *http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm
>
> "csdude" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > Hi all,
>
> > I am (trying) to replace the brake hoses *that *go from the brake
> > lines to the caliper (front) and from the line to the rear axle with
> > extended stainless steel braided ones.
>
> > Anyway, I tried to get the flare nuts loose (of course with a flare
> > wrench) and had one that seemed to fit snug (after cleaning them off)
> > but somehow I managed to get one stripped anyway (the hex is no longer
> > hex but rounded).
>
> > What size flare nuts are used in the front and the rear ?
>
> > thanks,
>
> > Ron- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

It fit snug, you have the right size wrench, they are just so corroded,
they will never come off with a flare wrench likely. The brass gets
soft and rotted. Mine never do. They go 'on' just fine with the wrench....

To get them off if you are no longer going to use them, I just cut the
suckers, then a socket fits right on the flare nut. They 'still' need a
day or two soaking in penetrating oil...

'I' personally have never been able to 'fix' an old line end by putting
a new flare on. That rock guard wire wrap will unwind, but the line has
usually gone 'crystalline' so it will just split when you try to do a
new 'double' flare that it needs.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

csdude wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am (trying) to replace the brake hoses that go from the brake
> lines to the caliper (front) and from the line to the rear axle with
> extended stainless steel braided ones.
>
> Anyway, I tried to get the flare nuts loose (of course with a flare
> wrench) and had one that seemed to fit snug (after cleaning them off)
> but somehow I managed to get one stripped anyway (the hex is no longer
> hex but rounded).
>
> What size flare nuts are used in the front and the rear ?
>
> thanks,
>
> Ron

Hi Mike,

Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with extended,
braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably 30 yo too and
besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I can just cut it
off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.

If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't make
a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line with a
new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is that just not
a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)

If all that fails and need to replace the lines, than I'll run into
the same problem at the proportioning valve of course.

Ron

On Mar 22, 7:26*am, Mike Romain > wrote:
> It fit snug, you have the right size wrench, they are just so corroded,
> they will never come off with a flare wrench likely. *The brass gets
> soft and rotted. *Mine never do. *They go 'on' just fine with the wrench....
>
> To get them off if you are no longer going to use them, I just cut the
> suckers, then a socket fits right on the flare nut. *They 'still' need a
> day or two soaking in penetrating oil...
>
> 'I' personally have never been able to 'fix' an old line end by putting
> a new flare on. *That rock guard wire wrap will unwind, but the line has
> usually gone 'crystalline' so it will just split when you try to do a
> new 'double' flare that it needs.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame and everything else in '09. *Some Canadian Bush Trip and
> Build Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
> csdude wrote:
> > Hi all,
>
> > I am (trying) to replace the brake hoses *that *go from the brake
> > lines to the caliper (front) and from the line to the rear axle with
> > extended stainless steel braided ones.
>
> > Anyway, I tried to get the flare nuts loose (of course with a flare
> > wrench) and had one that seemed to fit snug (after cleaning them off)
> > but somehow I managed to get one stripped anyway (the hex is no longer
> > hex but rounded).
>
> > What size flare nuts are used in the front and the rear ?
>
> > thanks,
>
> > Ron

csdude wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with extended,
> braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably 30 yo too and
> besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I can just cut it
> off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.
>
> If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't make
> a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line with a
> new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is that just not
> a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)

Compression couplers are a _very_ bad idea. Those are for low pressure
lines and can fail at brake pressures. Don't use them. Any shop that
would use those on brake line is incompetent.

Considering the age you may be better off buying some new line and
bending it up yourself. It's not that hard to do if you get a good
bending kit (never bend line by hand). Use string to figure out the
length you will need.

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...ics/index.html
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/brake-line-bending-140406/
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/flare_tool.html

note: remeber to leave expansion and flex joints in the line.
You don't want straight shots. That's why you see the -._,- bends
every so often. It relieves stress. The extra coils by the booster
are for cooling. Brake fluid gets real hot.

Or go aftermarket for some new lines
http://www.buybrakes.com/russell/apps-Jeep.html


--
DougW

I'm actually starting to lean towards replacing all the brake lines.

(thanks for the link, 4wd hardware seems to have the steel lines too)

By the time I have all the line, connectors and the right tools to do
it I probably spend more than just buy the kit.

btw: I am trying to find a proportioning valve for my '79 cj5, but I
can't seem to find any online ? (Does anyone know where I can get
those?) I see one or two pop up, but it mentions it is not a direct
fit. (If I spent the money I might as well get the 'just bolt in'
model

Ron

On Mar 22, 12:58*pm, "DougW" >
wrote:
> csdude wrote:
> > Hi Mike,
>
> > Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with extended,
> > braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably 30 yo too and
> > besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I can just cut it
> > off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.
>
> > If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't make
> > a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line with a
> > new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is that just not
> > a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)
>
> Compression couplers are a _very_ bad idea. Those are for low pressure
> lines and can fail at brake pressures. *Don't use them. *Any shop that
> would use those on brake line is incompetent.
>
> Considering the age you may be better off buying some new line and
> bending it up yourself. *It's not that hard to do if you get a good
> bending kit (never bend line by hand). *Use string to figure out the
> length you will need.
>
> http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...lare_tool.html
>
> note: remeber to leave expansion and flex joints in the line.
> You don't want straight shots. *That's why you see the -._,- bends
> every so often. It relieves stress. *The extra coils by the booster
> are for cooling. *Brake fluid gets real hot.
>
> Or go aftermarket for some new lineshttp://www.buybrakes.com/russell/apps-Jeep.html
>
> --
> DougW

I crawled around under the Jeep a bit and looked at the haynes/
clifford manuals. Apparently there were two types of proportioning
valves, "D" and "W" that year (79). I have the "W" type it looks like
and that one looks like this one; http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=14810

However it says "1977-78 and 1982-86 CJ" in the description. What is
the difference between this one and the W type or are they the same ?
(if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck.......)

Ron


On Mar 22, 1:44*pm, csdude > wrote:
> I'm actually starting to lean towards replacing all the brake lines.
>
> (thanks for the link, 4wd hardware seems to have the steel lines too)
>
> By the time I have all the line, connectors and the right tools to do
> it I probably spend more than just buy the kit.
>
> btw: I am trying to find a proportioning valve for my '79 cj5, but I
> can't seem to find any online ? (Does anyone know where I can get
> those?) I see one or two pop up, but it mentions it is not a direct
> fit. (If I spent the money I might as well get the 'just bolt in'
> model
>
> Ron
>
> On Mar 22, 12:58*pm, "DougW" >
> wrote:
>
> > csdude wrote:
> > > Hi Mike,
>
> > > Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with extended,
> > > braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably 30 yo too and
> > > besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I can just cut it
> > > off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.
>
> > > If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't make
> > > a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line with a
> > > new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is that just not
> > > a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)
>
> > Compression couplers are a _very_ bad idea. Those are for low pressure
> > lines and can fail at brake pressures. *Don't use them. *Any shop that
> > would use those on brake line is incompetent.
>
> > Considering the age you may be better off buying some new line and
> > bending it up yourself. *It's not that hard to do if you get a good
> > bending kit (never bend line by hand). *Use string to figure out the
> > length you will need.
>
> >http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...ics/index.html...
>
> > note: remeber to leave expansion and flex joints in the line.
> > You don't want straight shots. *That's why you see the -._,- bends
> > every so often. It relieves stress. *The extra coils by the booster
> > are for cooling. *Brake fluid gets real hot.
>
> > Or go aftermarket for some new lineshttp://www.buybrakes.com/russell/apps-Jeep.html
>
> > --
> > DougW

your so sad its pathetic

you just cant stop harrassing hughes

thats who you are and what you do

every time bill posts something helpful you jump on your case like you
know dick about jeeps yourself

actualy you dont know dick about jeeps so stfu

Pink ? Freud > wrote:

>On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 23:41:09 -0800, L.W.(ßill)Hughes III wrote:
>
>> Hi Ron,
>> Next time use a genuine Craftsmen line wrench with just six sides:
>> http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...=0.9,0.5, 0,0
>> I've never stripped, broke nor rounded a brake part, in literally thousands
>> of brake jobs. And I've always used a six sided sockets on the bleeders,
>> usually a 5/16. That avoids embarrassing one's self after assemble.
>
>Irrelevant to the problem, and probably not true, either.
>
>
>> Might as well cut it off and reflare the line with a new nut.
>
>Just 'cos you have no nuts anymore is no excuse to advise others to theirs
>off.
>
>And yours have certainly never been replaced, as you prove every time
>you post your highly questionable 'information'.
>
>> This may
>> be the excuse you've been waiting for,
>
>It certainly was the excuse YOU were waiting for, a chance to make someone
>think you know something about jeeps.
>
>Which you don't, really.
>
>
>> replacing it with failure prone
>> brittle stainless.
>
>> God Bless America
>
>Why?
>
>Does it need /that/ much help.....?
>
>
>>, Bill O|||||||O
>>
>> http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm
>>
>> "csdude" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I am (trying) to replace the brake hoses that go from the brake
>>> lines to the caliper (front) and from the line to the rear axle with
>>> extended stainless steel braided ones.
>>>
>>> Anyway, I tried to get the flare nuts loose (of course with a flare
>>> wrench) and had one that seemed to fit snug (after cleaning them off)
>>> but somehow I managed to get one stripped anyway (the hex is no longer
>>> hex but rounded).
>>>
>>> What size flare nuts are used in the front and the rear ?
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>>
>>> Ron

That looks identicle to the one on my 81 CJ7, also looks the same as the
one on the 86 CJ7 frame I bought to replace mine, unfortunately for you I
already sold the valve off it, or I would of sent it to you.

"csdude" > wrote in message
...
I crawled around under the Jeep a bit and looked at the haynes/
clifford manuals. Apparently there were two types of proportioning
valves, "D" and "W" that year (79). I have the "W" type it looks like
and that one looks like this one;
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=14810

However it says "1977-78 and 1982-86 CJ" in the description. What is
the difference between this one and the W type or are they the same ?
(if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck.......)

Ron


On Mar 22, 1:44 pm, csdude > wrote:
> I'm actually starting to lean towards replacing all the brake lines.
>
> (thanks for the link, 4wd hardware seems to have the steel lines too)
>
> By the time I have all the line, connectors and the right tools to do
> it I probably spend more than just buy the kit.
>
> btw: I am trying to find a proportioning valve for my '79 cj5, but I
> can't seem to find any online ? (Does anyone know where I can get
> those?) I see one or two pop up, but it mentions it is not a direct
> fit. (If I spent the money I might as well get the 'just bolt in'
> model
>
> Ron
>
> On Mar 22, 12:58 pm, "DougW" >
> wrote:
>
> > csdude wrote:
> > > Hi Mike,
>
> > > Well I am replacing the hoses that go to the calipers with extended,
> > > braided steel ones. (The hose to the caliper is probably 30 yo too and
> > > besides that they are too short for the lift.), so I can just cut it
> > > off trying to keep as much brakeline as possible.
>
> > > If the line ends up being too short after cutting, or if I can't make
> > > a decent flare on it I could replace the last part of the line with a
> > > new piece using a coupler (the compression kind)? (or is that just not
> > > a good idea. (I have seen couplers on other vehicles)
>
> > Compression couplers are a _very_ bad idea. Those are for low pressure
> > lines and can fail at brake pressures. Don't use them. Any shop that
> > would use those on brake line is incompetent.
>
> > Considering the age you may be better off buying some new line and
> > bending it up yourself. It's not that hard to do if you get a good
> > bending kit (never bend line by hand). Use string to figure out the
> > length you will need.
>
> >http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...ics/index.html...
>
> > note: remeber to leave expansion and flex joints in the line.
> > You don't want straight shots. That's why you see the -._,- bends
> > every so often. It relieves stress. The extra coils by the booster
> > are for cooling. Brake fluid gets real hot.
>
> > Or go aftermarket for some new
> > lineshttp://www.buybrakes.com/russell/apps-Jeep.html
>
> > --
> > DougW

Greg wrote:
> That looks identicle to the one on my 81 CJ7, also looks the same as
> the one on the 86 CJ7 frame I bought to replace mine, unfortunately
> for you I already sold the valve off it, or I would of sent it to you.
>
> "csdude" wrote ...
> I crawled around under the Jeep a bit and looked at the haynes/
> clifford manuals. Apparently there were two types of proportioning
> valves, "D" and "W" that year (79). I have the "W" type it looks like
> and that one looks like this one;
> http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=14810
>
> However it says "1977-78 and 1982-86 CJ" in the description. What is
> the difference between this one and the W type or are they the same ?
> (if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck.......)

Might try here. At least they have a real nice parts breakout.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-br...cj8-scrambler/

Unless they changed the brake piston sizes there shouldn't be any
difference in valves. Most common change is due to using discs
instead of drums for the rear brakes. Some added the idiot light sender.

The valves can be rebuilt, but sometimes that's nearly as expensive
as just dropping in a new one.

--
DougW