5W vs 10W oil

"Will Honea" > wrote in message
...
> Old Crow wrote:
>
>> Either way, I'm OK, both the Wranglers have better heaters than the '61
>> F100 I've been driving.
>
> LOL! We drove one of those for years before Dad died - he bought it new.
> Same problem after a while. Yanked the heater core, threw it in the tank
> and soaked it for a few days. Sucker was plugged almost solid with the
> accumulated gunk from using well water in the cooling system and the
> annual
> flush never got any of it out.
>
> After a loooonnnngggg soak, it would run you out of the cab. Lots more
> comfort than you'll get out of fixing the wife's Jeep.
>
> A little off topic, but do you know of any solvents for that silicone/RTV
> stuff? A local outfit that refinishes bath tubs and such actually refuses
> to work on any appliances in a bath that has been sealed with silicone -
> claims he can't get it off and any trace screws up his finish.
>
> --
> Will Honea
>


First, I already flushed the heater core by hooking it up to the city water
tap, I think the main problem is I need to put a hotter thermostat in
it...plus fix the airflow through the cab and maybe get a headliner and some
carpet for it.
As far as fixing the Jeep, I'm gonna need the 4wd sooner or later to get to
work, so I've decided to retire the old truck and do the frame-off it so
richly deserves. I've still got access to the resto shop I worked at and
he'll let me work off any expenses I rack up(material cost, etc.)
Now for the silicone. I'm thinking cleaning off with some of that aviation
paint stripper, followed by laquer thinner or maybe some wax and grease
remover(sold at auto paint suppliers). Your guy's right, silicone or even
silicone fumes will fish eye the new finish like crazy.

--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 92"
'87 FLTC
'61 F-100 302/C-6
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM

"DougW" > wrote in message
...
> Old Crow wrote:
>
>> Having worked for GM as a service tech for over 20 years, I'd vote
>> for the clean surfaces.
>> I've had to virtually destroy oil pans that were installed correctly
>> with silicone to get them off of engines. In fact, this is probably
>> the method I'll use to repair mine when I get to it.
>> I get to spend over a grand in parts after the holidays to repair all
>> the little crap that's gone wrong on the Jeep my wife's been driving
>> for the last 5 years. With my luck, after I get it done she'll want
>> it back and leave me the '95 4 cyl I just bought her.
>> Either way, I'm OK, both the Wranglers have better heaters than the
>> '61 F100 I've been driving.
>
> I saw a mechanic split seals with spiderwire fishing line between two
> dowels, just like a garrote. That was on a diff cover though. Dual
> purpose tool.
>
> One other tool that works is a cut down trowel. Just turn it into a flag
> looking contraption and sharpen it like a draw knife. It will need a
> better bead on the shaft to hold it together.
>
> --
> DougW
>


I may steal that Spiderwire trick next time. My wife uses the heaviest test
for the stained glass wind chimes she makes, so I've got access to plenty.
I could also use it on the office manager at the dealership if she gets in
my hair again.<g>

--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 92"
'87 FLTC
'61 F-100 302/C-6
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM

Old Crow wrote:
> "Will Honea" wrote ...
>> Old Crow wrote:
>>
>>> Either way, I'm OK, both the Wranglers have better heaters than the
>>> '61 F100 I've been driving.
>>
>> LOL! We drove one of those for years before Dad died - he bought it
>> new. Same problem after a while. Yanked the heater core, threw it
>> in the tank and soaked it for a few days. Sucker was plugged almost
>> solid with the accumulated gunk from using well water in the cooling
>> system and the annual
>> flush never got any of it out.
>>
>> After a loooonnnngggg soak, it would run you out of the cab. Lots
>> more comfort than you'll get out of fixing the wife's Jeep.
>>
>> A little off topic, but do you know of any solvents for that
>> silicone/RTV stuff? A local outfit that refinishes bath tubs and
>> such actually refuses to work on any appliances in a bath that has
>> been sealed with silicone - claims he can't get it off and any trace
>> screws up his finish.

> First, I already flushed the heater core by hooking it up to the city
> water tap, I think the main problem is I need to put a hotter
> thermostat in it...plus fix the airflow through the cab and maybe get
> a headliner and some carpet for it.

My first truck was an old C-10 Chevy. A good carpet pad and carpet helps
a lot. I also put glued plastic wind barriers behind the door pannels.
Never did a headliner.

> Now for the silicone. I'm thinking cleaning off with some of that
> aviation paint stripper, followed by laquer thinner or maybe some wax
> and grease remover(sold at auto paint suppliers). Your guy's right,
> silicone or even silicone fumes will fish eye the new finish like
> crazy.

Once silicon has cured it's nearly impossible to remove without
resorting to some real nasty industrial chemicals.
Try this www.goofoffstainremover.com
Just make real sure to read the directions first! Ventalation is
a MUST. Once that goes down the silicone will sort of dry up
then you have to carefully scrape it off. Think Lowes and Home Depot
carry that stuff.

--
DougW

In article >,
says...
>
> "Will Honea" > wrote in message
> ...
> > DougW wrote:
> >
> >> The 93 has an aluminum valve cover and uses a bead of sealant that is
> >> supposed to be reusable (factory applied) but it long gave up. Last
> >> time I tried cork it leaked down the back so I went back to using just
> >> permatex form-a-gasket.
> >
> > I wasn't sure which you had - that plastic is a leak-by-definition AFAIAC.
> > My son had a 94 XJ with the aluminum cover and wanted something to hold
> > "for
> > one trip" - you know those kinds of fixes I'm sure. We pulled the cover,
> > cleaned the cover and head with brake cleaner, then took a tube of hi-temp
> > silicon (sensor safe type) and laid a heavy bead all around it. Took a
> > putty knife and tapered so that it filled in a triangle from the inner lip
> > to a fine line at the outer edge. He had some 3/16 doweling on the bench
> > so
> > we cut some lengths and stuck it in the 4 bolt holes for a guide (as well
> > as
> > keeping the holes clean) and set the cover on while the RTV was still wet.
> > Pressed lightly just to get it in place then let it set for 3-4 hours
> > before
> > putting the bolts in and tightening them with a screwdriver handle and a
> > socket. That set overnight and he took off the next day - Colorado to CA
> > back to Texas and home to CO. No leaks and it was still holding when he
> > sold the XJ about 4 years later. I'm not sure what was more important:
> > really clean surfaces or getting it down so that the bolts applied just a
> > little pressure to the semi-cured RTV to compress it. Mike Romain always
> > swore that the clean surfaces and silicon was the solution and thought the
> > gaskets were useless so we tried it.
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea
> >
>
>
> Having worked for GM as a service tech for over 20 years, I'd vote for the
> clean surfaces.
> I've had to virtually destroy oil pans that were installed correctly with
> silicone to get them off of engines. In fact, this is probably the method
> I'll use to repair mine when I get to it.
> I get to spend over a grand in parts after the holidays to repair all the
> little crap that's gone wrong on the Jeep my wife's been driving for the
> last 5 years. With my luck, after I get it done she'll want it back and
> leave me the '95 4 cyl I just bought her.
> Either way, I'm OK, both the Wranglers have better heaters than the '61 F100
> I've been driving.

Hey, Crow, just a comment but are you sure the heater is turned _on_ in
that '61 F100? My dad's had a valve under the hood that had to be
turned on and off to enable or disable the heat.

"J. Clarke" > wrote in message
in.local...
> In article >,
> says...
>>
>> "Will Honea" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > DougW wrote:
>> >
>> >> The 93 has an aluminum valve cover and uses a bead of sealant that is
>> >> supposed to be reusable (factory applied) but it long gave up. Last
>> >> time I tried cork it leaked down the back so I went back to using just
>> >> permatex form-a-gasket.
>> >
>> > I wasn't sure which you had - that plastic is a leak-by-definition
>> > AFAIAC.
>> > My son had a 94 XJ with the aluminum cover and wanted something to hold
>> > "for
>> > one trip" - you know those kinds of fixes I'm sure. We pulled the
>> > cover,
>> > cleaned the cover and head with brake cleaner, then took a tube of
>> > hi-temp
>> > silicon (sensor safe type) and laid a heavy bead all around it. Took a
>> > putty knife and tapered so that it filled in a triangle from the inner
>> > lip
>> > to a fine line at the outer edge. He had some 3/16 doweling on the
>> > bench
>> > so
>> > we cut some lengths and stuck it in the 4 bolt holes for a guide (as
>> > well
>> > as
>> > keeping the holes clean) and set the cover on while the RTV was still
>> > wet.
>> > Pressed lightly just to get it in place then let it set for 3-4 hours
>> > before
>> > putting the bolts in and tightening them with a screwdriver handle and
>> > a
>> > socket. That set overnight and he took off the next day - Colorado to
>> > CA
>> > back to Texas and home to CO. No leaks and it was still holding when
>> > he
>> > sold the XJ about 4 years later. I'm not sure what was more important:
>> > really clean surfaces or getting it down so that the bolts applied just
>> > a
>> > little pressure to the semi-cured RTV to compress it. Mike Romain
>> > always
>> > swore that the clean surfaces and silicon was the solution and thought
>> > the
>> > gaskets were useless so we tried it.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Will Honea
>> >
>>
>>
>> Having worked for GM as a service tech for over 20 years, I'd vote for
>> the
>> clean surfaces.
>> I've had to virtually destroy oil pans that were installed correctly with
>> silicone to get them off of engines. In fact, this is probably the
>> method
>> I'll use to repair mine when I get to it.
>> I get to spend over a grand in parts after the holidays to repair all the
>> little crap that's gone wrong on the Jeep my wife's been driving for the
>> last 5 years. With my luck, after I get it done she'll want it back and
>> leave me the '95 4 cyl I just bought her.
>> Either way, I'm OK, both the Wranglers have better heaters than the '61
>> F100
>> I've been driving.
>
> Hey, Crow, just a comment but are you sure the heater is turned _on_ in
> that '61 F100? My dad's had a valve under the hood that had to be
> turned on and off to enable or disable the heat.
>
>


Yeah, the truck got a brand new shutoff valve last spring when I did the
302/C6 conversion. I think I put a 160 t/stat in the motor at the time and
I'm thinkin' that a 180 or a 195 would probably help a lot.
Still, I'm pushing 60 and the Jeep is a lot more comfortable as a daily
driver. I really need to paint the old truck and put a new floor in the
bed. In fact, I'm considering pulling it all the way down to the frame and
re-doing a couple of things I did when I swapped out the motor.
--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 92"
'87 FLTC
'61 F-100 302/C-6
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM

DougW wrote:

> I saw a mechanic split seals with spiderwire fishing line between two
> dowels, just like a garrote. That was on a diff cover though. Dual
> purpose tool.
>
> One other tool that works is a cut down trowel. Just turn it into a flag
> looking contraption and sharpen it like a draw knife. It will need a
> better bead on the shaft to hold it together.

Sounds like the tool I use (or rather used to use - too damned old for that
stuff now) to peel out windshields when they started to glue them in. The
one I had was actually a very thin cable so that it would also serve as a
saw of sorts. Problem with that type of thing is that you have to be able
to reach both side of the seam. Best "tool" I've found for gaskets like the
valve cover is a really thin, flexible putty knife ground to put a hook on
one corner. I've got one that's about 1.5 inches wide that I use for all
sorts of things, including joint fitting on oak projects.

Hey Crow, have you tried sealing/rubber around the windows? Our old Ford
had so many air leaks it sounded like a hog calling contest in the cab at 50
mph or better.

--
Will Honea

"Will Honea" > wrote in message
...
> DougW wrote:
>
>> I saw a mechanic split seals with spiderwire fishing line between two
>> dowels, just like a garrote. That was on a diff cover though. Dual
>> purpose tool.
>>
>> One other tool that works is a cut down trowel. Just turn it into a flag
>> looking contraption and sharpen it like a draw knife. It will need a
>> better bead on the shaft to hold it together.
>
> Sounds like the tool I use (or rather used to use - too damned old for
> that
> stuff now) to peel out windshields when they started to glue them in. The
> one I had was actually a very thin cable so that it would also serve as a
> saw of sorts. Problem with that type of thing is that you have to be able
> to reach both side of the seam. Best "tool" I've found for gaskets like
> the
> valve cover is a really thin, flexible putty knife ground to put a hook on
> one corner. I've got one that's about 1.5 inches wide that I use for all
> sorts of things, including joint fitting on oak projects.
>
> Hey Crow, have you tried sealing/rubber around the windows? Our old Ford
> had so many air leaks it sounded like a hog calling contest in the cab at
> 50
> mph or better.
>
> --
> Will Honea
>


I've used everything short of windshield urethane to try and seal the holes.
Truck has a pretty good crack in the windshield, and I found a company
that'll put a new windshield in for $280 including new rubber, so when the
paint is done that's where I'm going.
Just another in a long list of projects. Gotta have something to do when I
retire.<g>

--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 92"
'87 FLTC
'61 F-100 302/C-6
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM

DougW wrote:
> Old Crow wrote:
>> "Will Honea" wrote ...
>>> Old Crow wrote:
>>>
>>>> Either way, I'm OK, both the Wranglers have better heaters than the
>>>> '61 F100 I've been driving.
>>> LOL! We drove one of those for years before Dad died - he bought it
>>> new. Same problem after a while. Yanked the heater core, threw it
>>> in the tank and soaked it for a few days. Sucker was plugged almost
>>> solid with the accumulated gunk from using well water in the cooling
>>> system and the annual
>>> flush never got any of it out.
>>>
>>> After a loooonnnngggg soak, it would run you out of the cab. Lots
>>> more comfort than you'll get out of fixing the wife's Jeep.
>>>
>>> A little off topic, but do you know of any solvents for that
>>> silicone/RTV stuff? A local outfit that refinishes bath tubs and
>>> such actually refuses to work on any appliances in a bath that has
>>> been sealed with silicone - claims he can't get it off and any trace
>>> screws up his finish.
>
>> First, I already flushed the heater core by hooking it up to the city
>> water tap, I think the main problem is I need to put a hotter
>> thermostat in it...plus fix the airflow through the cab and maybe get
>> a headliner and some carpet for it.
>
> My first truck was an old C-10 Chevy. A good carpet pad and carpet helps
> a lot. I also put glued plastic wind barriers behind the door pannels.
> Never did a headliner.
>
>> Now for the silicone. I'm thinking cleaning off with some of that
>> aviation paint stripper, followed by laquer thinner or maybe some wax
>> and grease remover(sold at auto paint suppliers). Your guy's right,
>> silicone or even silicone fumes will fish eye the new finish like
>> crazy.
>
> Once silicon has cured it's nearly impossible to remove without
> resorting to some real nasty industrial chemicals.
> Try this www.goofoffstainremover.com
> Just make real sure to read the directions first! Ventalation is
> a MUST. Once that goes down the silicone will sort of dry up
> then you have to carefully scrape it off. Think Lowes and Home Depot
> carry that stuff.
>

See if a local high end body/paint shop can help you. They have to
contend with silicones in modern waxes, etc.

Old Crow wrote:

> I've used everything short of windshield urethane to try and seal the
> holes. Truck has a pretty good crack in the windshield, and I found a
> company that'll put a new windshield in for $280 including new rubber, so
> when the paint is done that's where I'm going.
> Just another in a long list of projects. Gotta have something to do when
> I retire.<g>

You mean in all that "free time" you're gonna have? Allow me to disillusion
you a tad. Seems like everybody and the dog see you as retired which means
that you have all this time - for their projects. On top of that, it's
FREE! Amazing how popular you get to be.

Ever wonder why us old pharts are regarded as curmudgeons? Just wait; the
reason will become obvious....

--
Will Honea

"Will Honea" > wrote in message
...
> Old Crow wrote:
>
>> I've used everything short of windshield urethane to try and seal the
>> holes. Truck has a pretty good crack in the windshield, and I found a
>> company that'll put a new windshield in for $280 including new rubber, so
>> when the paint is done that's where I'm going.
>> Just another in a long list of projects. Gotta have something to do when
>> I retire.<g>
>
> You mean in all that "free time" you're gonna have? Allow me to
> disillusion
> you a tad. Seems like everybody and the dog see you as retired which
> means
> that you have all this time - for their projects. On top of that, it's
> FREE! Amazing how popular you get to be.
>
> Ever wonder why us old pharts are regarded as curmudgeons? Just wait; the
> reason will become obvious....
>
> --
> Will Honea
>


Spent 3 months on unemployment earlier this year and was busy nearly every
day, so I have some idea of what you're talking about.
I've got most of my friends trained about that, and the kids know to at
least bring beer when they want their stuff worked on.

--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 92"
'87 FLTC
'61 F-100 302/C-6
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM