Brake rotors already grooving

BBA wrote:
> > >Did you happen to have the rotors cut or resurfaced? i.e. happens
to be a
> > >requirement when replacing a rotor!
> >
> > Foo!
>
> same to you pal!
>
> > Where did you get that nonsense!
>
> I don't know what where you come from! Here in the US most NITB
rotors will
> require a base cut before installation

What are NITB rotors? Who told you that new rotors needed a "base cut"
before installation? As with the others here, I've never heard of
such a thing.

--
Cliff

John Ings wrote:
>
> OEM pads?

To be honest, I don't know. It may sound stupid, but
it didn't really cross my mind because I bought them
at the same import parts place I bought the last pads,
and quite a few other parts in the past. This is
a highly reputable business, and their products have
always been good quality.

--
Cliff

On 13 Jan 2005 01:07:29 GMT, "TeGGer®" > wrote:

>Lawrence Glickman > wrote in
:
>
>> On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 14:39:43 -0800, "BBA"
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>> The same place he gets all his other nonsense. bob's garage.
>>>
>>>what am I missing? what is that supposed to mean?
>>>
>>>BBA
>>>
>>
>> I have been under the impression that you can just put new rotors on
>> your vehicle without doing anything to them first?
>>
>> You are saying they need to be resurfaced first? Please explain,
>> which is it.
>>
>
>
>Well, if you're fool enough not to make certain the new rotor is sitting
>against a flat, clean, rust-free hub, then you need to resurface the rotor
>so it will be true.

So you're saying a person would have to be a *fool* in order to
resurface a new rotor so it will be in correct alignment with a
corroded wheel hub.

I thought so.

Lg

TeGGer=AE wrote:
>
>
>
> They're aftermarket. Quality? Flip a coin.

They're the same pads I bought 35k miles ago on the car,
and there were never any problems (and there was actually
a good deal of pad left--could've gone another 5K easily)
with them. So, you no longer believe that what I described
is normal wear, but bad pads?

BTW, always buying OEM is not necessarily the best way to
go; for example, I could've paid over $600 for an OEM
radiator for my Japanese car, or only about $160 for
an aftermarket one, six years ago when I replaced it.
I chose the aftermarket one, and it's still in good shape,
and has lasted nearly as long as the OEM and shows no signs
of failure.

--
Cliff

On 13 Jan 2005 02:14:35 GMT, "TeGGer®" > wrote:


>Or you can sand a corroded wheel hub down to be flat again, which is what I
>do, living in the Great White Rusty North.

I'm in the middle of the rust belt being on the southwestern edge of
Lake Michigan, just south of Downtown Chicago.

>Rust is puffy and compressible. Bad idea to leave it there when installing
>a new rotor. also, if you turn a rotor while it is sitting crooked on the
>rust, you will end up with uneven heat-sink mass around the rotor, a
>virtual guarantee of future warping.

Yes, I know you are the *brake master* as I have read your website.
A wire brush is your friend up here in rustland.

You did a -great- job with your website, IMO. It was a very
interesting read, and the photos were perfect.

Lg

> I have been under the impression that you can just put new rotors on
> your vehicle without doing anything to them first?



You're not the only one; I see this crap all the time! - You need to be
absolutely sure - where do you think that your rotor comes from - from the Far
East! - Even American made vehicle OEM parts may be made in a foreign country.
How do they get here - some guy very carefully carries from the far east to
where ever and their in absolutely pristine shape!



Too many times I see imperfections - nicks, scrapes, scratches, warps. Those
nice new looking rotors are actually dropped, kicked around - in fact most of
your brand new rotors aren't even packaged until they hit the US.


> You are saying they need to be resurfaced first? Please explain,
> which is it.



Specially, if it's a rear wheel drive vehicle! Then you want to remove the front
wheel, R/R the races within the hub. Secure the new rotor on the hub, hub on
resurfacing. Cut.+Cross-cut to ensure a nice rough surface!



Additionally, a front wheel drive vehicle new rotors - should be mounted and
then cut (with out the wheel mounted) while on the car! Although most techs or
shops for that matter don't have the required tool to properly complete the
task!



Do you think that a shop will be honest and tell you that they don't have the
appropriate tool? Now they won't be able to perform the job - hell no - brake
jobs can be quite lucrative!



BBA

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 18:26:07 -0800, "BBA"
> wrote:

>> I have been under the impression that you can just put new rotors on
>> your vehicle without doing anything to them first?
>
>
>
>You're not the only one; I see this crap all the time!

really.....

> - You need to be
>absolutely sure - where do you think that your rotor comes from - from the Far
>East! - Even American made vehicle OEM parts may be made in a foreign country.
>How do they get here - some guy very carefully carries from the far east to
>where ever and their in absolutely pristine shape!

I've only had rotors turned twice.
One place ruined them beyond all recognition by turning them into
barber poles with deep spiral groves.
The other place, a parts shop, did the job correctly, and gave me back
rotors with a surface a clean and smooth as a new baby's ass.

So my *luck* has been running 50-50 in the rotor turning department.

>Too many times I see imperfections - nicks, scrapes, scratches, warps. Those
>nice new looking rotors are actually dropped, kicked around - in fact most of
>your brand new rotors aren't even packaged until they hit the US.

Some minor imperfections are nothing more than cosmetic in nature, and
will have ZERO effect on braking. And a certain tolerance ( amount of
runout ) is allowed while the rotor is on the wheel hub, albiet it is
a small tolerance, measured in thousandths of an inch.

>> You are saying they need to be resurfaced first? Please explain,
>> which is it.
>
>
>
>Specially, if it's a rear wheel drive vehicle! Then you want to remove the front
>wheel, R/R the races within the hub. Secure the new rotor on the hub, hub on
>resurfacing. Cut.+Cross-cut to ensure a nice rough surface!

I have FWD only

>Additionally, a front wheel drive vehicle new rotors - should be mounted and
>then cut (with out the wheel mounted) while on the car! Although most techs or
>shops for that matter don't have the required tool to properly complete the
>task!

That I believe. Even the *brake shop* I used to go to would take the
rotors off the wheels before resurfacing, I mean, ruining them.

>Do you think that a shop will be honest and tell you that they don't have the
>appropriate tool? Now they won't be able to perform the job - hell no - brake
>jobs can be quite lucrative!

Yes, as I recall, I got a nice dent in the wallet to go along with the
bent lower control arm they gave back to me after their *test drive.*

>BBA
>
Lg

On 13 Jan 2005 02:44:19 GMT, "TeGGer®" > wrote:

>Lawrence Glickman > wrote in
:
>
>> On 13 Jan 2005 02:14:35 GMT, "TeGGer®" > wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Or you can sand a corroded wheel hub down to be flat again, which is
>>>what I do, living in the Great White Rusty North.
>>
>> I'm in the middle of the rust belt being on the southwestern edge of
>> Lake Michigan, just south of Downtown Chicago.
>
>
>Then you...know...

Exactly. I couldn't help noticing how rusted your rotors are in the
middle where the cooling fins are. And how your brakes need servicing
at 6 month intervals just to keep them alive. Same thing here. But
you are -still- the brakemaster IMO until further notice, as your
brake service instructions are easy to understand and to the point.

>And I'm in Ontario, Canada. Smack dab between Lakes Ontario and Erie. Home
>of the Evil Salt Truck.

Sometimes they are necessary. There is one particularly bad stretch
of road on Illinois State Route 1 between Ridge Road and 183rd streets
where they tow wrecked cars out of by the barge load. To make
matters worse, in the summer there is a car wash right there putting
car wax out there that comes off the cars as they exit the wash and
return to the road. Why hell you can't even _walk_ on it without
slipping on your A$$.

So it's either ice or wax that will ruin your car in this corridor of
hell, or salt. You have your choice how you want to lose your car,
IOW. Crash it yourself, or let normal traffic take it out ;-( And
when they wreck, there are always at least 5 or more cars involved, at
a minimum.

It really happens quite often, as you can always see the broken glass
and car pieces left over in the intersections if you missed the Main
Event.

>>>Rust is puffy and compressible. Bad idea to leave it there when
>>>installing a new rotor. also, if you turn a rotor while it is sitting
>>>crooked on the rust, you will end up with uneven heat-sink mass around
>>>the rotor, a virtual guarantee of future warping.
>>
>> Yes, I know you are the *brake master* as I have read your website.
>> A wire brush is your friend up here in rustland.
>>
>> You did a -great- job with your website, IMO. It was a very
>> interesting read, and the photos were perfect.
>
>
>
>Thanks. Kind words.

Credit where credit is due. You put a lot of work into that site to
help out a lot of people and you did it for no reward except knowing
that somebody out there will get it right because they read your
stuff.

Lg

On 13 Jan 2005 02:57:33 GMT, "TeGGer®" > wrote:

>"TeGGer®" > wrote in
7:
>
>> Lawrence Glickman > wrote in
>> :
>>
>
>>>
>>> You did a -great- job with your website, IMO. It was a very
>>> interesting read, and the photos were perfect.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks. Kind words.
>>
>
>
>BTW, I should point out that most of the rest of that site is the work of
>John Ings, not me.

Take a bow, John Ings.
That's got to be the best thought-out website I've come across in a
long time.

Although I don't own the same model vehicle, I do have disc brakes,
and much of the information there can translate over to my vehicle.

It's a work of art. And a valuable asset to anybody who is thinking
about a DIY brake job on their own vehicle.

Lg

"TeGGer®" > wrote in message
.. .
> "TeGGer®" > wrote in
> :
>
>> Lawrence Glickman > wrote in
>> :
>>
>
>>>
>>> You did a -great- job with your website, IMO. It was a very
>>> interesting read, and the photos were perfect.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks. Kind words.
>>
>
>
> BTW, I should point out that most of the rest of that site is the work of
> John Ings, not me.
>
> --
> TeGGeR®

Could you post a link? I'd like to see it.
Thanks